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Not sure what the bronze shifter bushing is referring to.

I put bronze fork pads in mine. Def requires opening it and bought them from the gearbox.

The output seal can be replaced by removing the tail shaft. 30 mm impact to get the nut and then rig a puller to push the splined connection apart.

I don't fully recall or have a pic, but I don't think the input seal can be done with it together...I wouldn't mess with it at least. No way to get the shaft out so you are working in a tight spot.

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
First huge shout out to Random for providing this write up. Immensely valuable in helping me get the tranny out!

I did want to provide a couple thoughts from my experiance for others so it's in one place. I will note first that my Blower and Heads were removed so I had an easier time for sure.

1. Support the transmission towards the rear of the transmission body. I used the same transmission jack adapter pictured that Random used. I had the jack centered on the transmission body. I was unaware of the weight distribution of the transmission but it is way way towards the back of the body. Once I manually picked up on the rear of the transmission my buddy was able to slip the transmission right out. We were prying on the engine/block and the tranny wouldn't budge because the weight wasn't properly supported. Another thing I would recommend is to support the oil pan of the engine with a jack stand. My motor mounts (80K) were pretty loose so it def. made things more difficult with multiple items moving.

2. I did not have to lower the cradle to get the transmission out, I did remove the headers as well since my heads were already off so that likely had something to do with it. I had virtually no room but it came out.

Random couple questions for you.

1. Why did you replace the master? Did you have issues or just maintenance since it was all apart? Still recommend it?
2. On your optional parts list

* Monster billet Slave / release bearing support - I assume this is only applicable to the factory slave?
* Bronze shifter bushing - $19 from www.thegearbox.org
* TR6060 input shaft / Front seal (#89059435) - $4 from www.thegearbox.org
* TR6060 output shaft / rear seal (#89059483 / TUSJ2042) - $12 from www.thegearbox.org
I emailed the guys at the above website. They noted I couldn't replace any parts on the 6060 without cracking it open and didn't see any steps on how you replaced the above seals. Would really appreciate any guidance here? I would like to replace anything I can while it's apart.
I replaced the master because it had 65k on it and was cheap insurance.

I think the bronze bushing was an error and only for V1 cars.

I wound up not replacing anything on the transmission as I also realized it had to be opened up. I figure if I need to open it up it will get rebuilt by someone else who actually knows what they're doing.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I replaced the master because it had 65k on it and was cheap insurance.

I think the bronze bushing was an error and only for V1 cars.

I wound up not replacing anything on the transmission as I also realized it had to be opened up. I figure if I need to open it up it will get rebuilt by someone else who actually knows what they're doing.

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And since Im only a little further than Tick...I get the nod.

Stage .3 rebuild coming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Geez! I had my A6 out in just a couple hours, and back in and running after about 5 hours. Easy peesy relatively speaking.

Bill
It would have been 2 days had I gotten the third clutch plate lined up properly.

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Thank you Random, I know this is an older post, but still relevant. I took notes for my first install a year ago, and again this week prior to a clutch/trans inspection, everything checked out. With a lift it still took me two 12 hour days solid! My car is heavily modified, so there are a few extra tear down steps for me. But as you wrote, removing the entire rear trans support and raising the rear trans while pushing downward on the engine to clear the last 1/4" of input shaft is the life saver. The upper LH RH bell housing corners are a BITCH to clear the tunnel, I ended up smashing the slave line bell housing support between the tunnel and trans, had to struggle to remove that for clearance after the fact. It is not a job I particularly enjoy, but you made it possible. Thanks...
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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I replaced the master because it had 65k on it and was cheap insurance.

I think the bronze bushing was an error and only for V1 cars.

I wound up not replacing anything on the transmission as I also realized it had to be opened up. I figure if I need to open it up it will get rebuilt by someone else who actually knows what they're doing.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Tick Performance for the TR6060 extreme package rebuild. Also, McLeod run bronze pilot bushings rather than pilot bearings in their vehicles, they manufacture the (large) compatible with V2 and sell direct. As you have stated in the past there are pros and cons between using bushing or bearing.
 

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Just to add to this post from Random... Fuck changing the clutch master..!!! That 1/4 turn bullshit is a dumbass design.. Kick in the balls to any fucking design engineer that forgets people have to WORK on these Things!!!! Anyway, hope this fixes what seemed to be a lack of disengagement when shifting which should not be happening since I just spent a butt load of $$$ with TICK for their badass rebuild with many extras added..
 

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Just to add to this post from Random... Fuck changing the clutch master..!!! That 1/4 turn bullshit is a dumbass design.. Kick in the balls to any fucking design engineer that forgets people have to WORK on these Things!!!! Anyway, hope this fixes what seemed to be a lack of disengagement when shifting which should not be happening since I just spent a butt load of $$$ with TICK for their badass rebuild with many extras added..
I will be attempting this one of these weekends if I have time.
Is it just really hard to turn that bitch 1/4 turn clockwise? Did you spray lube on it?
 

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I will be attempting this one of these weekends if I have time.
Is it just really hard to turn that bitch 1/4 turn clockwise? Did you spray lube on it?
I lubed that bitch like my girl before I hit that tater... It's just a tough to get leverage down in that area, but i did have an ahh, haa moment going back in.. I used my 3ft prybar, with the handle end between the fender and end of master (once it was in the hole) and was able to put enough pressure on it that it turned somewhat easy. Also my assy came with fluid in it and I only had to pump the pedal 20-30 times to get clutch engagement.
Does anyone (Random?) know how much movement you should get out of the slave to disengage the clutch? 1", 1.5"?? I was looking with a mirror while the pedal was being pressed and it doesn't look a whole shit ton like I remember the old linkage ones back in the day.. @random84
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
IIRC the movement can vary based on the clutch (fingers) design - but it doesn't take much. Maybe 3/4 to 1" total throw.

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IIRC the movement can vary based on the clutch (fingers) design - but it doesn't take much. Maybe 3/4 to 1" total throw.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
Thanks Jess, that makes me feel better with what I saw. I just spent 5k with Tick on a full rebuilt and just recently my 2-3 shift under throttle is not wanting to go cleanly and I'm like WTF..? Hope to get test drives in this weekend.. fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If it's not wanting to go in the gate, but all others are good, then I wouldn't expect the slave to be an issue.

While in gear under light load (almost like coasting), slowly press the clutch pedal in. If the clutch releases in the top half of travel then you are GTG IMHO.

Specific gear change issues make me think it's most likely a shifter alignment issue or the Trans/ syncros.



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