Alright let’s get to crackin..
Tools you need:
-Ball Pean Hammer (I dunno, at least 16 oz?)
-1/8” punch
-10, 13, 15, 17, 30 mm sockets (1/2” impact preferred, plus sizes for your pullers)
-15 mm combination wrench (and whatever you may need to drive your pullers)
-Impact Wrench (pneumatic, unless your Li tools have comparable torque output)
-90 Degree Pick
-Two standard 3 jaw pullers (or a puller with comparable reach, max reach needed is 18-20”)
-Bearing Splitter (A nice one for the bearings, HF one can be used for the 20” deep pull operation)
-Robust Snap ring pliers like the following:
Link (I used channelocks with the pins flipped, below)
I have attached an assy and BOM I found from a Mustang (roast away) the only difference I see is in the tailhousing/shift linkage area; I have detailed pictures of the V setup when different.
The transmission should be vertical for this work, trust me! Any orientations I mention of the transmission will be in its installed state though (top, bottom, side etc…) On our version of the TR6060, the bell housing incorporates the front plate of the transmission. I welded up a rectangle made of angle iron and bolted it to my engine stand, I used a 2X4 to brace the fixture to the stand frame. The setup was strong enough without the wood support, but it adds stability and is suggested.
I drilled a hole in the fixture frame to secure the bellhousing to it. This was done with some M10 threaded rod I already had lying around from one of my tool creations. I also installed a threaded rod through another bell housing hole inside the frame so the transmission could not rotate around the First threaded rod, and off of the frame. The hole is in the front right corner as pictured.
Doing it over, I’d suggest you go ahead and remove all of the solenoids, sensors, shift detents, shaft retention screws, etc… It all has to come off eventually! Set them aside somewhere safe and secure while you bust this thing open!
These two T40 screws come from the two lower holes in the case in the following pic.
(Add reverse lockout and shift detent pics)
Using the impact and 30mm socket, remove the nut securing the output coupler in place. You can then use the three jaw puller, short config, large ends down to remove the coupler from its splined shaft, The puller can run against the end of the output shaft with some liberal application of anti-sieze and careful consideration depending on the end on your puller…
Now you need to drive the coiled pin through the back of the shift linkage, until you can remove it.
Remove the tail housing bolts (qty 8) with the 15mm socket (and combo wrench on the two on the bottom)
Remove the cover from the rear of the transmission.
Now you can start removing items from the output shaft…Make sure you establish a method of layout, for me I pulled the parts and laid them out in the same orientation with which they came off the shaft. There is a small BB under the Speedo rotor (39/40 P.3 BOM PDF) I used a magnet to remove that BB.
Drive the pin through on the reverse lockout attachment and remove. Drive the pin through on the shift gate (just below), it has to be removed with the case!
From here you should remove everything down to 5th gear (24) on the output shaft. Everything until the synchro (28) is held on by snap rings (and one split ring just above 5th gear). These snap rings are beefy as hell. You either need some nice Lisle (or equivalent) of the style that look like revers needle nose (stepped teeth on the tool) or some creativity. The pin style pliers wont cut it. I took a pair of channelocks and flipped the points with hexs out so that I could remove the rings safely.
The synchro (28) must be removed with a puller along the way, you can just catch the lip of the synchros in each of three spaces that house the plastic ball bearing detent style components.
Now remove the snap rings and components from the countershaft until you cannot anymore. The 6th gear on the countershaft cannot be removed until 5th gear is pulled from the output. This is where creativity is your friend. I oriented my puller as below to pull 5th gear (last pic in this section). 6th can stay on until the case is removed.
Removing reverse
Split ring over 5th
Pulller for 5th (use an impact on the puller once tight)