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09-15 CTS V Front Suspension torque values and installation - reference

62K views 46 replies 17 participants last post by  mememe123 
#1 ·
Since I am going through my front suspension over the next few days, I wanted to post up the official 2013 GM Service Manual instructions. There are a few alternate sections referenced in these instructions - so if someone has a need for them feel free to send me a PM. I might get back to you... eventually. :D

Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications



Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:





Lower Control Arms:





Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):





Steering Knuckle (RWD only):



Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):




Wheel Stud Replacement:


 
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#2 ·
That 236 ft-lb LCA bolt is what cause me to take my car in 4 times to the same place for an alignment. They'd dial it in and as soon as I took one hard turn the damn thing would slide in the pocket and jack the hell out of it. You can't get an impact on it so most shops just hand tighten with a wrench or socket. They don't get close to 236 ft-lbs. I slapped a 3 foot breaker bar on mine and that thing hasn't moved a millimeter since then. Maybe I should open an alignment shop so things get done right.
 
#3 ·
Depends on the shop. I went to one recommended by my friends and made sure to reiterate the torque value multiple times. Got home and tested my own wrench on it and they did indeed get it all the way to 236.
 
#4 · (Edited)
So I swapped upper and lower control arm bushings today. Might as well turn this into a DIY thread!

I have already removed the bushings on my replacement UCA and LCA cores to make the project more expedient (
click here for link
; and getting one side apart and back together took me about 5 hours taking my time.


Suggestions:
* You do not need a ball joint separator. I used a big hammer (see below)
* You will need an assortment of hand tools, including 1/2" breaker bars and sockets, and either a large adjustable crescent wrench or, preferably, wrenches that go up to at least 21mm and/or 15/16 (~24mm).
* You do not need to remove the sway bar, end links or tie rod ends. Start by removing the UCA / bucket / spring assembly and replace it, then use the UCA-to-knuckle joint to hold the knuckle while you remove and install the LCA.

First up - and in my humble opinion - you'll want to remove and reinstall the Upper Control Arm and spring assembly first.

To do that, you need to remove the vehicle speed sensor and tuck it up out of the way. Also you'll need to pop off the ride height sensor linkage with a flat screw.



Make sure you pop the ride height sensor off with a screwdriver or similar:



Next, loosen the UCA ball joint bolt that holds the knuckle in place.



We don't want to remove it YET because this gives you JUST enough room to remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the Lower Control Arm.



Once the shock/spring assembly is loose, remove the upper ball joint completely. You'll have to support the knuckle while doing this to avoid slamming it, but once the upper ball joint is free the knuckle and brake assembly will hang down out of the way:



Now we're getting somewhere. Time to remove the UCA and spring assembly - remember to leave one bolt on the top in by a few threads until you're ready to catch the whole thing!



Now's a good time to press out the old bushings and verify you have the right parts - and that they are orientated the right way! I bought spare suspension pieces to make this swap easier, just in case! Also remember to lube up the bushings prior to installation, and remember that the zerk fittings (if applicable) have to point towards the center, resting inbetween coil springs. They will not fit otherwise.



I am using the Creative Steel poly set and torqued the UCA bushing bolts to 70 ft-lbs - a value I felt was reasonable for the bolt diameter. HOWEVER there are no published torque specifications since the UCA / top hat are only sold as a pre-assembled piece! So be judicious with your wrenches here!



Reassembly is pretty straight forward - reference the torque specifications above for the UCA assembly-to-chassis bolts. I know you want to get that ball joint nut on there tight... but again, leave it loose - we still have to get to the lower control arm! And it should be obvious... but don't reinstall the lower shock bolts or the speed sensor either!


- to be continued -
 
#5 · (Edited)
Alright - so now that the Upper Assembly is in, we again will leave the upper ball joint nut just flush with the end of the bolt so that the joint is loose. We also do NOT want to bolt in the lower shock assembly bolts or the speed sensor, obviously.

First, we need to break the lower ball joint. You may use a fork or other tool, but I found that backing the nut down flush with the ball joint stud - along with a big fucking hammer - was plenty to pop the ball joint free.



Again, don't remove the nut YET. Let's make sure we can get those @#$%&ing LCA bushing bolts free! The "big" bushing actually uses a smaller diameter bolt and you'll need a 21mm socket for your breaker bar (and either a crescent wrench or preferably a 21mm open-ended wrench). Similarly, the "little" bushing uses a larger bolt and 15/16" socket.


I found that sitting in front of the knuckle / brake assembly and then pulling (or kicking with my leg on the opposite side) made it relatively easy to break both free.


With the bushing bolts removed, it is very straight forward in removing the LCA without any need to remove the swaybar, end links or tie rods from the knuckle.



Now's a good time to either press out your shot OEM bushings, or make sure your replacement is correct. Reassemble your new bushings.



Next, install the lower ball joint and thread the nut first, but don't tighten it down. Then, using the ball joint to help support the LCA, you can line up the bushings and reinstall both bushing bolts from under the car. If you're using Creative Steel bushings - oh wait, they're the only game in town for these right now - you'll want to make sure both zerk fittings are facing to the REAR of the car.



Once the Lower Control Arm is in place, you need to reinstall the two 13mm lower shock bolts BEFORE tightening down the lower ball joint. Check your torque specs! The lower shock bolts are easily sheared, and you will have to replace the entire LCA if you break one - because they're almost impossible to get out without destroying the LCA in the process.


Now, reinstall the speed sensor bracket and go back over your work and re-torque ALL fasteners for the upper and lower control arms (or make sure they're reallyfuckingtight if applicable). Please reference the torque specifications at the top of this thread. No warranty is expressed or implied, my shop doesn't carry any liability insurance so you're fucked, etc.


All finished up and ready for an alignment:

(yes, I snapped the ride-height sensor back on...)
 
#20 ·
Random84, thank you for the write up... I love the way you did it (pics w/ comments and extra detailed)! Question...I want to change my front shocks, is a spring compressor needed? If so why and any recommendations would be helpful!


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#6 ·
#7 ·
Did you grease up the bushings before install? And what grease you using?


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#8 ·
Also i commend you on your detail. You have a superhuman capacity for picture taking and documenting. Well done!


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#9 · (Edited)
I need to start posting my paypal account for donations! :D Thanks for the kind words nonetheless!


I used the grease supplied with the bushing set by Creative Steel. It's not a lot, but it's enough to get the contact points and inserts pretty well lubed up. I need to buy a new grease gun and get the "marine" grade grease. BUT, I might add those details, along with a "review" of the Creative Steel product, into the third post.

ETA: I called creative steel and they tell me they are using Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Heavy Duty, Commercial (Red) for their kits:


Amsoil product # GLCCR
 
#12 ·
I need to start posting my paypal account for donations! :D Thanks for the kind words nonetheless!


I used the grease supplied with the bushing set by Creative Steel. It's not a lot, but it's enough to get the contact points and inserts pretty well lubed up. I need to buy a new grease gun and get the "marine" grade grease. BUT, I might add those details, along with a "review" of the Creative Steel product, into the third post.
I got the green grease from autozone. The bummer about it is it’s too thick for the design of the bushings to disburse it properly. It just squeezes out around the bolt head to washer/nut to washer. So grease the shit out of them at install to avoid any squeaking is my $0.02

And no, I ain’t donating to you :p

This little one came today so I’m the one who needs donations :)

Thread hi jack much? :D

 
#10 · (Edited)
A few additions, if I may, sir:

First step should be popping off the ride height sensor rod on the UCA :p

All nuts/bolts are metric as far as I know, and I had great success using a thin-walled 18mm deep socket to get the spring hat nut out. As for the large LCA bolt, 24mm fits perfect (not 15/16). I was able to torque it down to 236 ft-lbs without stripping it.

Overall, great write-up. I'll be doing the LCA bushings next year when I do a bunch of other changes.

-suggestions from someone who has had the front suspension apart about 12 times :p
 
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#26 · (Edited)
Overall, great write-up. I'll be doing the LCA bushings next year when I do a bunch of other changes.
How do they ride?

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I'm doing a bunch of stuff all at once later on. When I burn through these tires and move up to some sticky ones, I'm going to slot the control arms to get a good amount of camber, do the bushings, bump the spring rate up. If I do it all at once, I save a lot of time.
 
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#11 ·
Youre probably right on everythinf being metric! 15/16" was all I had in that size, but yes it's equivalent to 24mm.

I also made a note about the active forward light sensor (but erroneously called it a ride height sensor?).

I had to grind my 18" socket down but it's easier to remove with the shock off the car (if using an impact socket). But I'd recommend tightening it with load on the suspension once everything's back together.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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#13 ·
I also made a note about the active forward light sensor (but erroneously called it a ride height sensor?).

I had to grind my 18" socket down but it's easier to remove with the shock off the car (if using an impact socket). But I'd recommend tightening it with load on the suspension once everything's back together.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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Pretty sure it's tied to the headlights? https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-...ine/electrical-cat/electrical-components-scat
Looks like part #2 and 3 in the top diagram: Headlamp Leveling Sensor and Front Link Assembly.

As for the socket I used on the spring hat nut: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YWRZ8O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This guy requires no grinding and is plenty strong. I haven't experienced any clunking or any indication of a loose spring hat after hitting it with my 1/4" hex impact (rated at ~50 ft-lbs) for a couple sec.
 
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#17 · (Edited)
FYI: Use Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Heavy Duty, Commercial (Red) for their kits:


Amsoil product # GLCCR

It's held up very well on my front suspension bushings.
 
#19 ·
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#18 · (Edited)
I have to concur with random84 in that improper torque specs after a alignment is causing the bolts to slip. I ruined a pair of Michelins because of it and it probably cause my upper control arms to take a shit also.

I got my CS bushings and Nordlocks ready to alleviate this problem.
 
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#23 · (Edited)
So the street 75A black bushings are nice! Not harsh, and feels VERY stock like just that now the car goes where I point it without the squishy water bed feeling! I would highly recommend the "Street" poly bushings for anyone wanting to improve the handling without noticeable harshness, although the car feels less stable at higher speeds (ETA: this has been refined by them including a harder, RED bushing for the larger diameter LCA).

I even noticed less front end drop on braking- but of course shocks / springs are unchanged. AND now the rear end feels comparatively loose since I haven't messed with any of that lately - but my alignment settings and cold temps don't help with that either.

It feels so good I don't see the need for "race" unless it's a dedicated track car.


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#27 ·
So the street 75A black bushings are nice! Not harsh, and feels VERY stock like just that now the car goes where I point it without the squishy water bed feeling! I would highly recommend the "Street" poly bushings for anyone wanting to improve the handling without noticeable harshness.

I even noticed less front end drop on braking- but of course shocks / springs are unchanged. AND now the rear end feels comparatively loose since I haven't messed with any of that lately - but my alignment settings and cold temps don't help with that either.

It feels so good I don't see the need for "race" unless it's a dedicated track car.

Red or Black? Im leaning hard towards the Red and not really seeing any benefit going with Black for ride quality. Im I wrong? Any daily drivers out there using the red bushing wish other wise??
I have ebachs on it now and need to tear it all apart again to replace bushings slot lower control arms and might cut springs a bit.
 
#24 ·
Yeah, it was a tough choice for me. I ended buying the race version since it's not my daily.
 
#25 ·
How do they ride?

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#28 ·
DD on red here. Coil overs so not an apples to apples comparison. My ride is stiff. If you don’t mind stiff, red is for you. If you are overly sensitive or don’t mind possibly leaving some crispness on the table, go black.
 
#29 ·
Random, thanks for this great DIY. This is my major winter project on the car for the winter. How much were the CS upper and lower bushings?
 
#31 · (Edited)
#32 ·
I've read this a few months back and came back to it since I'm being told that my uppers are shot ( I had a feeling back when you first posted and took the car in today).

I sent a email over to CS to see blacks were being produced and waiting for feedback. Also, I haven't been able to track down the actual cost for upper control arms (I believe you were selling some?) but would it be cost efficient to buy new control arms instead of just the bushings based off labor rates to replace bushings only?

Great post and thanks for sharing!
 
#33 ·
If you're paying someone to do it, I don't believe it would make sense to buy a second set of suspension arms (unless you wanted to stay with stock bushings). It's relatively easy for a shop to press out the old bushings with a press they likely already have, and shouldn't take up more than 1-2 hours of shop time. Buying a whole set of suspension arms will be 2-3x that cost.

Buying arms to have on hand is more for the DIY who either doesn't have a press (and doesn't want to buy one like I did), or doesn't want to have additional down-time with the car apart while he putzes around with pressing out the old bushings.

I did have a set but they are presently spoken for.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Since I am going through my front suspension over the next few days, I wanted to post up the official 2013 GM Service Manual instructions. There are a few alternate sections referenced in these instructions - so if someone has a need for them feel free to send me a PM. I might get back to you... eventually. :D

Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications



Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:





Lower Control Arms:


=


Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):





Steering Knuckle (RWD only):



Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):




Wheel Stud Replacement:
Can someone please provide the torque specs for the rear bolt that is loosened during rear camber adjustment?

Found this post: https://www.cadillacforums.com/foru...eneral/50376-bushing-part-s-torque-specs.html

Is it Lower Control Arm to Knuckle Bolts
175 N·m
129 lb ft ?
 
#37 ·
LCA to knuckle is not the one you loosen for camber. That would be LCA to subframe. I used the same torque value as for the smaller front LCA bolt: 148 lbs-ft.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Since I am going through my front suspension over the next few days, I wanted to post up the official 2013 GM Service Manual instructions. There are a few alternate sections referenced in these instructions - so if someone has a need for them feel free to send me a PM. I might get back to you... eventually. :D

Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications



Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:





Lower Control Arms:





Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):




Steering Knuckle (RWD only):



Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):




Wheel Stud Replacement:

Okay, so 1st off thank you random84 for posting the official service manual pages! That's awesome and haven't seen 'em posted anywhere else, super helpful...that being said I am somewhat confused on one of the torque specs listed and ANY help would be much appreciated as this is my 1st time taking this front end apart...the car is a 2010 CTS rwd and I'm replacing the front upper control arms only. The only thing I am confused about so far is the upper ball joint nut-to-knuckle torque spec. In your service manual pic of page 16-17 it lists it as 59 lb ft but on page 16-31 where it is showing the actual procedure it says to tighten it to only 44 lb ft.? I am generally stumped on this and was just curious as to what some of you guys that have done this before torqued that nut down to? I know I'm a little late to the original post here but I've only owned this car for about 6 mos., sorry!!
 
#40 · (Edited)
Since I am going through my front suspension over the next few days, I wanted to post up the official 2013 GM Service Manual instructions. There are a few alternate sections referenced in these instructions - so if someone has a need for them feel free to send me a PM. I might get back to you... eventually. :D

Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications



Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:





Lower Control Arms:





Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):




Steering Knuckle (RWD only):



Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):




Wheel Stud Replacement:

I'm getting prepared for this job soon and have a question about the alignment once the parts are installed. My question is: Once the LCAs have been installed, should I hold off on applying that massive final torque value until 'after' the alignment? If so, what minimum torque value for the LCA would you feel comfortable to temporary and limp over to an alignment shop? Also, I'll be installing nord-lock washers, in good shop practice can nord-locks be re-used? thanks
 
#41 ·
I'm getting prepared for this job soon and have a question about the alignment once the parts are installed. My question is: Once the LCAs have been installed, should I hold off on applying that massive final torque value until 'after' the alignment? If so, what minimum torque value for the LCA would you feel comfortable to temporary and limp over to an alignment shop? Also, I'll be installing nord-lock washers, in good shop practice can nord-locks be re-used? thanks
For nord locks you want to increase the torque values from what I've read - potentially up to 5-10% more if I recall - but verify that on your own.

There's a lot of load on the LCAs so I get them 150+ and then limp it to the alignment shop. I usually suggested 150 / 240 ft-lbs and recheck when I got home.

I've since switched to larger heavy duty washers with more success than the nordlocks.

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#44 ·
correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see why a spring compressor is necessary to remove the UCAs? Looks to me like once the spring hat/UCA/strut assembly is removed from the car, you can just unbolt the UCA and swap a new one in? Why bother with the compressor unless the UCA bolts were put in backwards and therefore have to slide towards the coil to be removed?
 
#47 ·
You'll have to use spring compressor, because the shock is gonna have to come off, if I remember correctly.
If you take the whole assembly out, and look at it, it will be self-explanatory, more or less.

Edit:
If you look at Random84's post on 1st page, he has all the pictures.
 
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