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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Its not like centri with a step up ratio. Its just a function of pulley ratio and engine rpm
Ah so the whole big pulley divided by small pulley equals ratio and then times rpm equals blower speed?
Or is that only for the factory 1.9
 

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I thought he was referencing the new Maggie 2650 and not the Whipple.
Either way, makes me wonder what is up with the pulley multiplication on both.
Type-o... I had a Senior Moment. :D


I think whipples have been even worse! lol but maybe you shouldn't trust my recollection. ha.
 

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Type-o... I had a Senior Moment. :D


I think whipples have been even worse! lol but maybe you shouldn't trust my recollection. ha.
Whipples are good blowers but they do not make an LSA kit like Magnuson. The issues in the past were when someone tried to convert a 5th gen camaro LS3 kit to make it work and failed in execution.

The new Magnum 2650 is direct fit like the previous 2300 heartbeat or Kong 2650
 

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Whipples are good blowers but they do not make an LSA kit like Magnuson. The issues in the past were when someone tried to convert a 5th gen camaro LS3 kit to make it work and failed in execution.

The new Magnum 2650 is direct fit like the previous 2300 heartbeat or Kong 2650
The Maggie is the only complete 2650 package from what I understand. The kong has failed with their lid for the simple reason they offered other options than their own. Poor engineering and marketing on their behalf. Why sell a product that is open to users exposing design flaws, hence @random84 assessment of his experience with the system.
 

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The Maggie is the only complete 2650 package from what I understand. The kong has failed with their lid for the simple reason they offered other options than their own. Poor engineering and marketing on their behalf. Why sell a product that is open to users exposing design flaws, hence @random84 assessment of his experience with the system.
The Kong blower can be used with a ZL1 lid or CTSV lid. You are not required to run their billet lid. We have done many using a ZL1 lid and C&R brick. With that said the Maggie looks nice and we have two inbound for upcoming builds.
 

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The Maggie is the only complete 2650 package from what I understand. The kong has failed with their lid for the simple reason they offered other options than their own. Poor engineering and marketing on their behalf. Why sell a product that is open to users exposing design flaws, hence @random84 assessment of his experience with the system.
I personally like the option of running a stock lid or an aftermarket one. So in that sense I thought it was genius on Kong's part, as long as the price point reflected the absence.

My beef was the heavily compromised lid, and the evasive advertising combined with a very high price point.

But I'm skeptical of the Maggie too. Who knows, a few early bearing failures or leaking bricks and we might all be talking about how amazing the Kong still is.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The Kong blower can be used with a ZL1 lid or CTSV lid. You are not required to run their billet lid. We have done many using a ZL1 lid and C&R brick. With that said the Maggie looks nice and we have two inbound for upcoming builds.
I'll stay tuned for these builds. Hopefully you can provide some results/ opinion on them.
Otherwise looks like i'll run a Kong with a C&R brick and factory lid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I personally like the option of running a stock lid or an aftermarket one. So in that sense I thought it was genius on Kong's part, as long as the price point reflected the absence.

My beef was the heavily compromised lid, and the evasive advertising combined with a very high price point.

But I'm skeptical of the Maggie too. Who knows, a few early bearing failures or leaking bricks and we might all be talking about how amazing the Kong still is.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
Do you think they will have bearing failures given Magnuson's history with superchargers in general?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
@random84 if I remember correctly, your DW300, ALM stage 2 hat, aux pump supported 830 rwhp on 93 didn’t it? Did you have the fuel rails or factory.

What was the issue that made you switch to your own custom feed lines?
 

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@random84 if I remember correctly, your DW300, ALM stage 2 hat, aux pump supported 830 rwhp on 93 didn’t it? Did you have the fuel rails or factory.

What was the issue that made you switch to your own custom feed lines?
I was speaking hypothetically about the Maggie. I have no knowledge of any failures - I just was pointing out that it's so new, we could have a different perspective in a few months.

Yes, my DW300, ALM hat and Aux pump cleared 840 RWHP with ease on 93 (aftermarket rails and ID1300x2s). I was at 90+ duty cycle when switching to ethanol (a big difference - like 30% increase in fuel demand).

I only switched because I had plans to pulley up more and make more power, so I wanted the head room. Replacing the lines freed up more restrictions and improved my headroom on ethanol markedly. I think my current setup will easily cover 4-digit power with room to spare on ethanol.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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I'll stay tuned for these builds. Hopefully you can provide some results/ opinion on them.
Otherwise looks like i'll run a Kong with a C&R brick and factory lid.
They are both 4 digit setups. I dont’t anticipate any problems with the blowers themselves. Magnuson QC has always been good but when you are spinning anything close to the limit it will not last as long as a 6 psi setup without some rebuilding. A 2650 kit setup for a stock LS3 will prob outlast the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
I was speaking hypothetically about the Maggie. I have no knowledge of any failures - I just was pointing out that it's so new, we could have a different perspective in a few months.

Yes, my DW300, ALM hat and Aux pump cleared 840 RWHP with ease on 93 (aftermarket rails and ID1300x2s). I was at 90+ duty cycle when switching to ethanol (a big difference - like 30% increase in fuel demand).

I only switched because I had plans to pulley up more and make more power, so I wanted the head room. Replacing the lines freed up more restrictions and improved my headroom on ethanol markedly. I think my current setup will easily cover 4-digit power with room to spare on ethanol.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
Awesome. Thank you for the info.

So sorry about this but I'm gonna copy and go the same setup for now. 😂😂 Radium rails, Already have the fuel labs filter, DW300, ALM, AUX. I'll bring it up to my builder. Then have them upgrade the lines in-between the tank and rails after I come back overseas along with a few other things.
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Okay I got my build list back from my builder. Gonna try to upload the pics as attachments below. Tried to put them in this message but they too big.

I found the company they are using. Seems they say this combo is good for 2,000 hp. I know I'll never ever get there but the price seem to come out higher than we anticipated. So with this list of parts below, I was told it would be a complete drop in. No need to for anything else for it to run.

So this is basically a complete long block. Using my Factory supercharger and components.
I was anticipating 13-15k. Price came out to $19,250 plus tax and labor ($4,400)

Not sure if I want to put in what I spent buying the car (30k) on a new motor setup with the new motor and a Kong.

Thoughts on this? Or is this just how things are now with the supply chain?
Half tempted now to just do ported heads, cam, lower and see how it does.

@Rubber Duck

Sir, What are your thoughts on this setup for a Factory ported LSA blower. I honestly dont know the cam specs but from the talks I've had and what I do know is, overlap will be between -6* to -2* with low 600 lift and the LSA will be good for daily driving/factory transmission so I would think 118 to 120 area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Negative overlap is going a bit small for a 388 with some compression IMO but it doesn’t say any specifics there.
Is the aim to have as close to zero as possible then? It was my understanding that if you had any positive overlap, that meant the intake and exhaust valve would be open at the same time. Something like a 232/248 with a 120 would have a zero. Where a 232/250 with a 120 has a +1.
That equates to 1* of rotation where both valves are open. I’m still trying to learn about all of this but there may be things I don’t know with camshafts that would throw me for a whirl on what I currently understand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I did talk this build over with the fiancé. She said as long as it doesn’t affect our ability to buy a house in 3 years, to go for it.

I’m taking another night to sleep on it but if I decide to press forward, then I’ll ask more specifics about the camshaft.

I’ll also be doing fuel upgrades first even though I’ll be on the stock 1.9.
 

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I feel like $26k is full MSRP and then some for that - but I haven't prices anything out lately. Certainly a nice collection of parts!

The labor seems decent.. It's a big job. For a turn-key solution ready to go, certainly fair.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I feel like $26k is full MSRP and then some for that - but I haven't prices anything out lately. Certainly a nice collection of parts!

The labor seems decent.. It's a big job. For a turn-key solution ready to go, certainly fair.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
The shop told me it’s a complete setup, just pull out my motor, swap accessories and supercharger w/components and it’s done.
I priced it on the website where they are getting the motor. The short block is $9,500 and the heads assembled are $5,200. The rest is the rear seals/cover, front seal/cover, cam and timing gear, billet valve covers, oil pan(looks to be Moroso with windsge tray), oil pump and whatever other miscellaneous components there are.
So to me, I can account for $16,000 off the website. I didn’t look at the head gasket prices or the timing components and such. But the motor was only $3,250 more so I imagine that’s a chunk for shipping, the timing components, misc gaskets that I missed, the front and rear stuff.

I know I’d only be using about 50% effort of what the motor is built for though. So should take the abuse. Also is not accounting for whatever the long block would sell for. Valve covers to oil pan.
 
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Is the aim to have as close to zero as possible then? It was my understanding that if you had any positive overlap, that meant the intake and exhaust valve would be open at the same time. Something like a 232/248 with a 120 would have a zero. Where a 232/250 with a 120 has a +1.
That equates to 1* of rotation where both valves are open. I’m still trying to learn about all of this but there may be things I don’t know with camshafts that would throw me for a whirl on what I currently understand.
There is definitely more to it then just overlap but it depends on what you are trying to accomplish given the long block and blower setup. 0* overlap is a pretty common figure for a stock converter 376 LSA.


So while 232/248 120 is 0* overlap so is 223/237 115 and they would work quite a bit differently. You have to look at what you are compromising and what trade offs it will create.
 
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