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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.
I'm creating this for a tracker and discussion along the way for my new to me Wagon.

2012 Black Raven Wagon Auto named Cenobie
Purchased from Daytona Dodge Fiat Maserati in Florida and had it shipped to Missouri.

End goal for the car is around 800 wheel on corn and whatever that makes on pump here.

I've been living over in UAE the past 4 years as a military contractor so it will be a couple years before I return.

I just purchased my first round of mods for it. Be installed probably around March because of my friend watching the car is having a baby next month. His hands are a little full with that, 911 dispatcher and his powder coating business.

Just got the supercharger replaced under warranty.

Airaid intake
Griptec 2.5 Pulley
100mm idler
Gates Green Belt
Solid isolator
Track Attack HE
Varimax pump
Dual Catch Can
Ported Snout & Supercharger
Ported 90mm Throttle Body
ID1050x
DSX Flex Fuel sensor kit
DW dual 300c drop in pumps
2" ARH headers and x pipe
Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge to monitor
Purchased an AI Interchiller from TrekGTO for my GT500 in the middle east with me but with machine shops backlogged he hasn't been able to ship it out. I contacted him once I purchased this car to change it to this platform. Can't wait for that to come in.

I also scored some Recaro seats from a 2012 Sedan along with the control module/dash bezel that are going to be installed soon.

Looking at getting the 160* thermostat, NGK 7 spark plugs, fuel labs or ID750 fuel filter for the E85, fuel pump access cover, ALM Stage 2 hat, and some weather techs next on my list.
Then I am looking at, in no particular order
heads (stock FED stage 2 ported or aftermarket castings)
Cam (and supporting hardware with new timing chain, oil pump, Johnson 2110r, etc)
DSX aux fuel pump
Lower pulley (ATI or IW, thinking 9.1 or 8.6)
1300cc injectors if need be and tuner recommends
1 piece driveshaft
wheels (either 20/18 or 19/17 combo)
tires

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. I am researching daily on things. In southwest Missouri there is 91 everywhere, 93 at very select few stations and same with E85. So I plan to have it tuned on 91 and E.

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Although you have already bought parts, I'd say your fuel system looks good - I'd start with the ID1300's as you will inevitably upgrade. :D

Also, skip the 1-piece driveshaft, I don't think it's a great investment until the diff shits a brick on you (and when you upgrade the diff, the aftermarket companies include a 1-piece driveshaft in their package prices). Avoid carbon fiber at all costs. :D

Lastly, since you're not in a rush, I'd encourage your buddy to do a test fit with the ARH headers FIRST, and then ship them off to Swaintech Coatings for their white-lightening ceramic coating. I have it on mine, much better than the other run of the mill coatings (jet hot, etc) and will do wonders keeping heat in the exhaust, where it belongs.

I'd save the heads/cam/lifters for all at once, as the labor overlaps quite a bit. I'd also consider heads/cam/lifters a great "maintenance" upgrade depending on the miles and how hard you drive it. But your bolt-on list already should give you a real bump in fun over stock. Instead of the heads/cam/lifters, I'd get the blower ported as that will give you another pound or two of boost and set you up for success when the head/cam swap realizes itself later on; using a 9.5 / 2.5 pulley combination.

Your stock cam is the biggest bottleneck to all of this, but ethanol will help a LOT to overcome the heat and timing needed. Heads will be the second after the cam, so all of my suggestions are on the assumption that you will inevitably upgrade (because let's face it, you will) - just stay conservative on the tune until this happens and favor the Corn until it happens. Remember: Aluminum blocks and hyperutectic pistons do not like pre-detonation at high cylinder pressures.

Thank you for your service!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Although you have already bought parts, I'd say your fuel system looks good - I'd start with the ID1300's as you will inevitably upgrade. :D

Also, skip the 1-piece driveshaft, I don't think it's a great investment until the diff shits a brick on you (and when you upgrade the diff, the aftermarket companies include a 1-piece driveshaft in their package prices). Avoid carbon fiber at all costs. :D

Lastly, since you're not in a rush, I'd encourage your buddy to do a test fit with the ARH headers FIRST, and then ship them off to Swaintech Coatings for their white-lightening ceramic coating. I have it on mine, much better than the other run of the mill coatings (jet hot, etc) and will do wonders keeping heat in the exhaust, where it belongs.

I'd save the heads/cam/lifters for all at once, as the labor overlaps quite a bit. I'd also consider heads/cam/lifters a great "maintenance" upgrade depending on the miles and how hard you drive it. But your bolt-on list already should give you a real bump in fun over stock. Instead of the heads/cam/lifters, I'd get the blower ported as that will give you another pound or two of boost and set you up for success when the head/cam swap realizes itself later on; using a 9.5 / 2.5 pulley combination.

Your stock cam is the biggest bottleneck to all of this, but ethanol will help a LOT to overcome the heat and timing needed. Heads will be the second after the cam, so all of my suggestions are on the assumption that you will inevitably upgrade (because let's face it, you will) - just stay conservative on the tune until this happens and favor the Corn until it happens. Remember: Aluminum blocks and hyperutectic pistons do not like pre-detonation at high cylinder pressures.

Thank you for your service!
I wanted the 1300s but when I saw the 1050x for 800 new on Black Friday and knowing it would be almost 2 years before I did upgrades to need bigger. I went ahead and got them for now. I'm looking into a filter for the E now.

I didn't even go Carbon on my GT500. I've seen and heard about a slight knick destroying the CF driveshaft and so expensive to replace and not really repairable. I'd stick with aluminum or Steel if need be. I'll hold off until its needed.

I'll let him know. I wonder if how that coating is applied. He has a powder coating business and an oven big enough to do it in. :unsure:

I did buy the service to have the blower ported along with the snout. Should be easy to do since the new blower has about 150 miles on it now. :D I did want to upgrade to do most the options that come with the cam kits. Oil pump, springs, pushrods, upgraded chain, etc as well. In the mean time, I will be reading on having FED stg 2 factory ported heads or Aftermarket castings along with a shelf cam or custom spec.

Is the 9.5 going to be too big of a lower if most my available fuel is going to be 91? I was thinking 9.1 max to keep the overall blower speed down for more longevity and heat. This is best to be done when doing the cam change correct? or doesn't matter really. I was thinking of getting the ATI 8.66 for when these all get installed in a couple months before the tune. Then when the cam is upgraded, go bigger like the 9.1 or 9.5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update to my build.

Was able to install the following while I was home on vacation from overseas.
Airaid intake
Griptec 2.5 Pulley
100mm idler
Gates Green Belt
Solid isolator
Track Attack HE
Varimax pump
3/4" lines
Dual Catch Can
Ported Snout & Supercharger
Ported 90mm Throttle Body
ID1050x
DSX Flex Fuel sensor kit
DW dual 300c drop in pumps
2" ARH headers and x pipe

Then I took it to the tuner I want to use and he was going to squeeze it in. He was able to but there was some bad wires around the fuel pump area and a cracked 90* that they had to fix. The time they spent on that delayed the tune. Still waiting for it and curious what power it will put out.

Think at the end of the year I will look into the other parts to complete out the build. If I end up not wanting to spend that kind of money, will hold off.
  • ported stock heads
  • Cam w/supporting mods
  • Interchiller install
  • Lower pulley
  • Stage 2 ALM hat
  • AUX pump kit
  • Fuel Lab filter installed
  • 160* thermostat installed
  • Wheels/tires or just some MT ET streets for the rear
  • New shocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I'm still waiting on the tuner. Ended up needing to order the ALM Stage 2 hat. Gonna have them install my Interchiller, Fuel lab filter and thermostat while they are waiting.

Been reading and researching a lot. Reading every Rubberduck post that he makes trying to learn. I have decided that this year I will do some minor resto mods to the car such as new shocks, grilles, fix the door trim and get a good paint correction in.

I was leaning towards aftermarket heads for a little bit. But then was looking at a built motor like a 388 and keep the stock ported blower. Then was looking at a 416 or 427 and then went down a rabbit hole. haha

Not sure if I want to do aftermarket heads that would work with a 388 LSX later or just port the stock heads with FED or WCCH, get a cam spec'd to match and keep that setup until I get a motor. If I do that, it would make sense to get a Kong 2650 or just keep the ported stock blower because of how I use the car.

Decisions, decisions.

If you have advice from experience, please feel free to chime in.

Ultimately the car will be a fun cruiser and not dedicated drag car.
 

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If higher mileage, I'd get a build long block from Thompson Motorsports (or similar), and sell off the original.

I got my long block for like $6k net that way.

You're going to do it, so why not just do it now? Cheaper in the long run. :D

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
If higher mileage, I'd get a build long block from Thompson Motorsports (or similar), and sell off the original.

I got my long block for like $6k net that way.

You're going to do it, so why not just do it now? Cheaper in the long run. :D

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

Car has 104,000 miles on it. Had 101,000 when I purchased it a year ago and was completely stock. Owned by an older gentleman in Florida.

Im in southwest Missouri so Dallas area would only be a 6 hour drive. I believe TME is around that area.

So sounds like for now, just run what I have and get a long block. Not to worry about cam and heads or even lower pulley since that will all be in the new long block. Which means I have about a year to research and figure out the setup.

Which way do you suggest for the long block then? Stock cube sleeved block, LSX block, DART, etc

I'm leaning towards a 388 DART block probably with their TME M311 heads that come on it. Not sure if the 1300 or 1500 one. Difference seems to be 1500(Callie's center counterweight crank, CP Carillo Bullet I beam 4330 rods) and 1300(K1 4340 forged crankshaft 3.622 or 4.000", Manley H-Heavy 4340 Forged rods with ARP2000). Pistons and everything else seems to be the same. $500 difference between the two IRON blocks. Aluminum DART seems to be $1,400 - $1,900 more.

Or get the 388 DART 1500 hp short block and add MAST Black Label LS3/LS7 295 heads. Custom cam and I believe LS7 cam gear if I read that right. Comes out to about the same as the 388/ M311 setup but with 2.20/2.25 intake valves depending on which website you read.

Or an LSX block with all the same.
 

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I do a CCW Dart with the best heads you can afford.


Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I've been on the research of where to live after my tour overseas. 99% sure I will end up in Denver. So that gives me direction for how/what to do with my build.

I asked a well known head porter about porting my stock heads and do a cam/lower pulley on SBE if I'm going to Denver with the 91/e85 availability and 5,200 ft elevation.

They told me "Honestly an older motor would do better with higher power than a new motor. Looser clearances allow for more expansion with power."

I've narrowed down my path to 3 choices. (supercharger is already ported and have a 2.5 pulley, headers, 1050x, fuel pumps, flex fuel, cooling system)

So feel free to give me some direction so I can learn. This is a fun/ date night/ occasional drive to school purposed car.

Elevation is new to me on how octane/ air density/ etc effects the engine.

1) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART with M311 heads
2) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART Eliminator short block and use my stock top end
3) Max effort port on my heads, Custom spec cam or LT1Z 2 or 2.5, ATI balancer and 9.1 lower, DDP intake, 103mm Throttle body.



Looking foward to your thoughts @random84 and @Rubber Duck and anyone else. Hope its alright I tagged you both.
 

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At elevation, there's much less oxygen to go round. That means you'll want to run e85 as an oxygenated fuel whenever possible and good compression.

There are no bad choices, but I like either of the first two: I doubt there's a huge cost savings to sending your heads out for porting and rework and labor and shipping versus just buying the Dart Eliminator / M113 package ready to go.

Cam choice is another conversation on its own, if you have the ability to change it.

But yeah, E85. 10:1 compression, and expect to get a 2650 blower soon. I wouldn't sink a ton of money into your 1.9L - sell it and upgrade. Kong 2650 with a ZL1 lid or the Maggie 2650 (which looks more promising)... or just run the 1.9 as is until your budget allows!

Since your stock motor is in good shape, you'll be able to recoupe several grand by selling the longblock. Combined with a turn-key longblock from TME, you'll come out ahead versus tearing everything down and selling off bits and pieces (IMHO).

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
At elevation, there's much less oxygen to go round. That means you'll want to run e85 as an oxygenated fuel whenever possible and good compression.

There are no bad choices, but I like either of the first two: I doubt there's a huge cost savings to sending your heads out for porting and rework and labor and shipping versus just buying the Dart Eliminator / M113 package ready to go.

Cam choice is another conversation on its own, if you have the ability to change it.

But yeah, E85. 10:1 compression, and expect to get a 2650 blower soon. I wouldn't sink a ton of money into your 1.9L - sell it and upgrade. Kong 2650 with a ZL1 lid or the Maggie 2650 (which looks more promising)... or just run the 1.9 as is until your budget allows!

Since your stock motor is in good shape, you'll be able to recoupe several grand by selling the longblock. Combined with a turn-key longblock from TME, you'll come out ahead versus tearing everything down and selling off bits and pieces (IMHO).

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
I honestly am not sure how much more I could put into my 1.9L. It is ported currently with the 102 snout done. Solid isolator and a 2.5 pulley. Also less than 1,000 miles on it. (got it warranted and new from GM) I guess I could get like a full tilt port from Jokerz or Kong. Brick is reinforced. I have -12 lines going in/out of the lid. Besides an extra port and different lid, I'm unsure of what else can be done to it.

I think with 91 and elevation, upper 600's on pump would be good. Which I think with e85, would get me mid 700's. I think thats a realistic goal for stock motor. I think if I remember ready Rubber Duck's posts, a 388 would require more CFM than the blower could produce and the M311 heads might flow at or more CFM than the blower can. So if I wanted to stay around mid 700's, that would work out.
Reading on some charts I found out. A Stage 2 ported LSA head with 2.18/1.6 valves, 70cc, Intake volume 292cc. This flows 380 / 261 cfm at 0.600 lift. Tested at 28"H20, 4.065 flow plate bore. The M311's flow 2.165/1.6, 72cc, Intake volume 273cc. Flows 360 / 253 at 0.600 lift. Tested 28"H20, 4.125 flow plate bore.

If I understand that right, does the Stage 2 outflow M311's? or does the flow plate bore make a difference?

I was just reading on Atmospheric Pressure vs. Elevation above Sea Level about the air pressure differences and see its 2.5 psia lower. A forum I found that on said if you take the new psia divided by sea level (12.2/14.7 = 0.83) then they took 1/0.83 = 1.204 so according to this forum post you would take the LSA compression ratio of 9.1:1 x 1.204 = 10.956 to which if I understand correctly, would bring it back to "Factory power at elevation." Not sure if thats correct but that is my interpretation of it. If thats the case, then if I make 700 wheel at 400' elevation (where my tuner is) then at Denver my car will make approx 580 wheel. (700x0.83).


In my mind I think I could get about at least $10,000 out of my LSA Long block, $4,000 for short block. Looking at eBay and Hawk Motorsports used engines. They list for $13,000 w/86k miles engine only no supercharger, ($13,500 with 100k miles w/6L90, $11,000 w/ 196k miles w/ 6L90, with a few between 13,500 and 15,200, all w/supercharger)

1) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART with M311 heads ($13,265 plus labor with added lower 9.2 pulley and any extra parts)
2) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART Eliminator short block and ported stock top end ($11,650 for short block, studs, ported heads plus labor & extra parts, 9.2 lower, includes cam/oil pump, windage tray)
a) Playing with calculators, with a 4.125/3.622, -2cc pistons, 0.05 gasket and stage 2 ported LSA heads with 70cc Chamber brings compression up to 11.05 which sounds like it would just offset the elevation.
b) They can include a cam on the website order of (222/235, 595/595, 120+4) which according to Rubber Duck is a -11.5 overlap cam. Their other choice for ported 1.9/2.3 blower is (233/249, 630/600, 120+4) This being a +1 overlap cam. Which may not be bad but I was trying to go by his advice I've read and stay around -6 to 0* overlap.

The above prices would also be minus LSA long block/ short block selling price. My Excel product says if 10k for long block, net cost would be 4k plus labor or 5.6k plus labor with 1300x.

3) Max effort port on my heads, Custom spec cam or LT1Z 2 or 2.5, ATI balancer and 9.1 lower, DDP intake, 103mm Throttle body, maybe DSX aux pump and 1300x injectors. ($$$ Waiting on my tuner/builder to quote me on this but rough estimate is $3,600 keeping my Airaid intake and LS3 throttle body/ $5,000 including DDP/103mm/ $7,800 including aux pump & 1300x injectors) plus labor.

Sorry for the long post. This is just all my thought process from reading around today at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
side note I forgot to add. If I understand correctly, if you tune a car at sea level and go up in elevation, the tune/car will be fine since there is less air. If you tune at elevation and go to sea level, you need higher octane and/or booster like Torco. So if this states true, I plan to have the car built and tuned for 91 octane/ e85 pump at 400' elevation where home is currently. That way to alleviate needing a retune up at elevation.
 

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Trusting "flow numbers" on aftermarket cylinder heads is about as accurate as comparing one guy's dyno results in Pennsylvania to another guy on a different dyno in California. You can chalk that up to advertising (propaganda)? That doesn't mean either set of heads isn't good, it just means comparing them in that manner would be fraught with potential error on an actual, running engine. You're smart to note the plate bore sizing, as a larger bore unshrouds the valve leading to potentially better flow numbers, but even the flow benches, valve sizing, porting style and runner volume and a dozen other small variables all can skew that data. Take it with a grain of salt.

I'd instead try to see what kind of results people are getting in the real world with each head, or just pick one based on company reputation and go.

At the end of the day, I'm still a fan of a built long-block. It almost always becomes more expensive to piece-meal it yourself with death from a thousand cuts. Bumping up compression is a good thing, but increasing compression by 1.2x will not give you 1.2x more power. :D

I think you're optimistic with your used engine pricing. You're not a retail location, you don't have a longstanding history of customer service and list price is almost never the actual "sale price." But I still think $6-7k is realistic for a used LSA off the top of my head, in good running order, without knowing more details of your setup. FWIW I did get $6k for mine and the guy came and picked it up after driving a few hours. It had something like 86,000 miles and professionally installed trickflow heads, so a little more desirable.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyway, if you tune your car at sea level, it would be rich at elevation assuming the fuel delivery was unchanged as there is relatively less air for the same amount of fuel. If you tune it for elevation (lower oxygen content) and drop back down to sea level, it would be lean. This is not something you actually need to worry about in the real world, generally speaking.

Modern cars in general account for elevation changes and adjust fuel delivery accordingly. In the V2, the ECM is very good for accounting for this (barometer adjustments) and it is all incorporated into the tune, requiring little adjustment from a competent tuner. A few hundred feet is no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Trusting "flow numbers" on aftermarket cylinder heads is about as accurate as comparing one guy's dyno results in Pennsylvania to another guy on a different dyno in California. You can chalk that up to advertising (propaganda)? That doesn't mean either set of heads isn't good, it just means comparing them in that manner would be fraught with potential error on an actual, running engine. You're smart to note the plate bore sizing, as a larger bore unshrouds the valve leading to potentially better flow numbers, but even the flow benches, valve sizing, porting style and runner volume and a dozen other small variables all can skew that data. Take it with a grain of salt.

I'd instead try to see what kind of results people are getting in the real world with each head, or just pick one based on company reputation and go.

At the end of the day, I'm still a fan of a built long-block. It almost always becomes more expensive to piece-meal it yourself with death from a thousand cuts. Bumping up compression is a good thing, but increasing compression by 1.2x will not give you 1.2x more power. :D

I think you're optimistic with your used engine pricing. You're not a retail location, you don't have a longstanding history of customer service and list price is almost never the actual "sale price." But I still think $6-7k is realistic for a used LSA off the top of my head, in good running order, without knowing more details of your setup. FWIW I did get $6k for mine and the guy came and picked it up after driving a few hours. It had something like 86,000 miles and professionally installed trickflow heads, so a little more desirable.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyway, if you tune your car at sea level, it would be rich at elevation assuming the fuel delivery was unchanged as there is relatively less air for the same amount of fuel. If you tune it for elevation (lower oxygen content) and drop back down to sea level, it would be lean. This is not something you actually need to worry about in the real world, generally speaking.

Modern cars in general account for elevation changes and adjust fuel delivery accordingly. In the V2, the ECM is very good for accounting for this (barometer adjustments) and it is all incorporated into the tune, requiring little adjustment from a competent tuner. A few hundred feet is no big deal.
Thanks for all the insight.

I talked to my tuner/ builder last night. He also suggests built long block and that is what he is looking into for me now. I'll do research today on the heads and see what people actually are making along with the other variables. Location, dyno used/track times, cam, ported blower, blower speed, etc. My builder suggested PRC heads but really likes FED as well. Will see what they suggest in the next week. I told him no rush as the machine shop parts are out 2-4 months from talking to him.

I know increasing compression by 1.2x will not give me 1.2x power. :D I think it would give me close to the playing field with elevation change. haha

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So summary from my tuner

1) The tuner/boss of the shop runs Rocky Mountain Race week and is very familiar with the exact elevation changes I'll be encountering and said my tune will be set up safe for both home and elevation.
2) Looking at getting me a LSX or Dart block 388" motor. He said to expect around 13,000 overall cost of the longblock. Also to expect at least January or later for it. I told him I'm not returning from overseas until July next year so there is time.
3) They are gonna look/ advertise my long block and see what they can get for it. All the mods I've done have not been actually ran on the motor other than around the parking lot awaiting the tune. Has only a start up tune on it currently. So essentially 104,000 mile untouched motor.
4) His cam guy is going to custom spec build a cam for me. Told him I was keeping stock transmission and converter, wanted to keep LSA around 120 for better drivability (that is if I understand 120 is better than 116 for that kind of thing) and to keep the overlap to -5* to 0*. He said back he would like to keep it between -6* to -2* and around low 600 lift. Be curious what it would be but sounded good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Trusting "flow numbers" on aftermarket cylinder heads is about as accurate as comparing one guy's dyno results in Pennsylvania to another guy on a different dyno in California. You can chalk that up to advertising (propaganda)? That doesn't mean either set of heads isn't good, it just means comparing them in that manner would be fraught with potential error on an actual, running engine. You're smart to note the plate bore sizing, as a larger bore unshrouds the valve leading to potentially better flow numbers, but even the flow benches, valve sizing, porting style and runner volume and a dozen other small variables all can skew that data. Take it with a grain of salt.

I'd instead try to see what kind of results people are getting in the real world with each head, or just pick one based on company reputation and go.

At the end of the day, I'm still a fan of a built long-block. It almost always becomes more expensive to piece-meal it yourself with death from a thousand cuts. Bumping up compression is a good thing, but increasing compression by 1.2x will not give you 1.2x more power. :D

I think you're optimistic with your used engine pricing. You're not a retail location, you don't have a longstanding history of customer service and list price is almost never the actual "sale price." But I still think $6-7k is realistic for a used LSA off the top of my head, in good running order, without knowing more details of your setup. FWIW I did get $6k for mine and the guy came and picked it up after driving a few hours. It had something like 86,000 miles and professionally installed trickflow heads, so a little more desirable.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyway, if you tune your car at sea level, it would be rich at elevation assuming the fuel delivery was unchanged as there is relatively less air for the same amount of fuel. If you tune it for elevation (lower oxygen content) and drop back down to sea level, it would be lean. This is not something you actually need to worry about in the real world, generally speaking.

Modern cars in general account for elevation changes and adjust fuel delivery accordingly. In the V2, the ECM is very good for accounting for this (barometer adjustments) and it is all incorporated into the tune, requiring little adjustment from a competent tuner. A few hundred feet is no big deal.

First of all. Thank you for providing the feedback so far. Im currently reading through your build thread, just broke the 1,000 post mark.

I will be going with a built long block. I have a phone call with my tuner/builder in the morning about pricing and deciding which route to go with. It basically will be a 388, or 427 depending on which stroke crank we decide on. I know to aim for a Counterweight crank. I see Callies, Compstar and Dart. Not sure of other brands. Will see if builder recommends H beam or I beam rods.

He did ask what blower to go with if we end up at a 427. I think the only options are the Maggie 2650 and Kong 2650. Only a $900 difference. Do you think the NW 103mm TB or go Kong 112mm?

I did read that a few have went 427 and ported 1.9 blower that have made it in the 9's. Mine is ported but not max effort port. Worth it to keep or sell it complete with the motor to recover more of the build with a 2650?

- side note: Motor is untouched and has 600 miles on new GM supercharger with 102mm port job on snout and blower with 2.5 pulley (4 miles with ported blower and pulley. Never got around to a tune) So I would think that including the blower might bump up my sale price about $2,500 or more. Then could include the 1050x injectors.

Im hoping someone has some deals on 1300x for Black Friday sales. Will get those, Maybe a DDP intake and aux pump to help with ALM stage 2 hat.

So I know to bump up compression to right at 10:1, will need to bump up injectors, Throttle Body, Intake, possibly blower. Turns out, Brodix is less than 2 hours away and the guy I talk to at the shop grew up locally to them. They are looking into heads from them as well as maybe the F310/M311 FED's.
 
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First of all. Thank you for providing the feedback so far. Im currently reading through your build thread, just broke the 1,000 post mark.

I will be going with a built long block. I have a phone call with my tuner/builder in the morning about pricing and deciding which route to go with. It basically will be a 388, or 427 depending on which stroke crank we decide on. I know to aim for a Counterweight crank. I see Callies, Compstar and Dart. Not sure of other brands. Will see if builder recommends H beam or I beam rods.

He did ask what blower to go with if we end up at a 427. I think the only options are the Maggie 2650 and Kong 2650. Only a $900 difference. Do you think the NW 103mm TB or go Kong 112mm?

I did read that a few have went 427 and ported 1.9 blower that have made it in the 9's. Mine is ported but not max effort port. Worth it to keep or sell it complete with the motor to recover more of the build with a 2650?

- side note: Motor is untouched and has 600 miles on new GM supercharger with 102mm port job on snout and blower with 2.5 pulley (4 miles with ported blower and pulley. Never got around to a tune) So I would think that including the blower might bump up my sale price about $2,500 or more. Then could include the 1050x injectors.

Im hoping someone has some deals on 1300x for Black Friday sales. Will get those, Maybe a DDP intake and aux pump to help with ALM stage 2 hat.

So I know to bump up compression to right at 10:1, will need to bump up injectors, Throttle Body, Intake, possibly blower. Turns out, Brodix is less than 2 hours away and the guy I talk to at the shop grew up locally to them. They are looking into heads from them as well as maybe the F310/M311 FED's.
We can help with the majority of parts you are looking for. Email us for a quote!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What about transmission, axles and diffential?
Will do the axles and differential with my bonus this time next year. The car doesnt get driven that much. 2,000 miles a year or less. (I'm stationed overseas) Plus my brother is absolutely scared shitless to get rowdy with anything that has power. I sold my Diesel truck with 700/1300 wheel power and he had me put it on the tow tune (roughly 550/900 wheel) because it got squirely on him once.

I'm not sure how well the transmission will hold up to that, but I do know its a lot about the tune in it.

As a side note. I'm not taking the car to the drag strip and running it. Will have most likely have a 80-100 tread wear tire on it and be street driven. Maybe a street radial. I'm also building this not for max effort with the setup. So the 427/2650 may be capable of 1,000 rwhp but I'll have it in the 800's on e85.

The car is being built at 400' elevation but will live once I start driving it at 5,000' elevation. So even my 1,000 wheel is going to be in the low 800's I'm guessing or maybe mid 700's due to have only pump 91 and e85 in the region.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
We can help with the majority of parts you are looking for. Email us for a quote!
Once I talk with my builder in the next 4 hours, I will have a parts list hopefully and be able to get back with you on some things I may need.
 
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