That is a question that will start an intwerweb war. HP level is not what dictates oil brand or viscosity. But to answer you question, I have Amsoil ready to go, after 1 more round of conventional for my new engine.

 

Amsoil 5w30 signature series

 

There is a Blackstone oil report thread floating around here somewhere.

I'm happy with redline and the oil report after my cam was pretty promising.

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Mobile 1 5w-30 off the shelf oil filter.
I change my oil so often 2-3k I can't see that it would make a difference
Zips up flame suit

 

Any you have had quite a few issues and some of them attribute directly to that crappy oil in this application.

 

I'd follow your cam and or builder's recommendation for oil brand/type/viscosity.

Which is why I switched to redline...as I will be installing a LT1Z Stg 2.5 in the spring...

 

Search the 100s of threads about this but I'll up my post count w/ RP HPS and the ac delco tall filter

 

My concern is the viscosity, what about 40(5w 40 or 10w 40) on ~700whp engines? Did someone using this?

I know of 2 cases of bearing failure using 5w 30 within 700-750whp range.


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As others said...the oil needed is based on clearances, not power levels. Any decent oil can hold a film at a hundred thousand PSI or more. The bearing clearances dictate the viscosity needed to create a proper film. Climate differences are ONLY about startup flow. You're never pushing 700hp at cold engine temps so that's a pretty irrelevant consideration. Just focus on the flow you need at start based on ambient temps and the film thickness you need based on internal clearances. For the record Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple HPS (I'd use OE viscosity for all) seem to be forum favorites. The stock Mobil 1 does REALLY well in testing but anecdotally seems to have some opponents.

 

Redline with Mobil 1 filter

 

Oh and Redline 5w-40 here with Mobil 1 filter as well.

 

The viscosity you use is dependent on your motor clearances and temperate climate you live in, or at least drive the car in. If you have a STOCK engine, with STOCK clearances, you should run what the manufacturer recommends (5w-30). If you have a built motor, with forged internals, with MORE clearance, you can get away with a higher viscosity. My builder of my forged engine said I can run 10w -40 also. I also live in New England, and I plan to drive my V once in a awhile. Will take a little longer to warm up, but my decision was based on the above factors. Now you can run a higher viscosity on a stock engine, but realize that oil may not get to where it needs to be as quick as it wants it or as much as you want it to. Stock engine, I'd say stick to 5w-30.

 

Stock engines with upgrades do well with boutique oils, such as redline 5w30. Thicker (not too thick), better anti-wear additives than mpg-orientated M1 5w30.


/thread

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Do any of you guys use schaeffer's oil? It's becoming highly reccomended in the 2JZ big turbo world (what I'm coming from), however I know that's a different engine setup since it's a flat tappet engine. Their oil handles the heat very well due to the high zinc content, so I was wondering if anyone has tried it here.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Wet-Lubes-Uranus-Silicone-Ounce/dp/B009GHE6AS

This stuff is expensive, but has excellent reviews. I'll probably try it next time.

 

Works great for those tight tolerance high friction points..

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I'm at 700 to the wheels and just put in the Mobil 1 extended performance. But I'm no oil expert on these motors. On our race engines for asphalt and dirt cars we use Gibbs or Brad Penn. So I am in need of some info for oil to use. I will be getting this oil analyzed to see how it's all going.

 

Joe Gibbs LS 30 and a Wix performance

 

Tuner recommends Mobile 1 15w50 onmy build (just over 700 rwhp)

 

That's awfully heavy. Stock internals or built motor?

 

Stock internals. Cam/ported heads.

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Damn. You're not getting much flow until everything is hot. I'd expect higher cold start wear characteristics and definitely don't push it until oil temps are 180+

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Yeah, 15w-50 is thick. Your engine must be set up with a lot of clearance. I would run that if I lived in Texas...only in the Summer.

 

I do live in Texas and I don't think I'd run something quite that thick - at least not on stock clearances.

 

I agree that's to heavy of a weight and question the shop that told you this. That thing needs to be lubricated properly and with that weight it is not. There are tolerance when building a motor and that is what determines the weight. What is oil pressure at start up cold and then up to temp at idle?

 

I use Valvoline VR1. I've also heard good things about Amsoil.

 

I use Betis ultra virgin oil works beatiful [emoji41]


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