Although you have already bought parts, I'd say your fuel system looks good - I'd start with the ID1300's as you will inevitably upgrade.

Also, skip the 1-piece driveshaft, I don't think it's a great investment until the diff shits a brick on you (and when you upgrade the diff, the aftermarket companies include a 1-piece driveshaft in their package prices). Avoid carbon fiber at all costs.

Lastly, since you're not in a rush, I'd encourage your buddy to do a test fit with the ARH headers FIRST, and then ship them off to Swaintech Coatings for their white-lightening ceramic coating. I have it on mine, much better than the other run of the mill coatings (jet hot, etc) and will do wonders keeping heat in the exhaust, where it belongs.

I'd save the heads/cam/lifters for all at once, as the labor overlaps quite a bit. I'd also consider heads/cam/lifters a great "maintenance" upgrade depending on the miles and how hard you drive it. But your bolt-on list already should give you a real bump in fun over stock. Instead of the heads/cam/lifters, I'd get the blower ported as that will give you another pound or two of boost and set you up for success when the head/cam swap realizes itself later on; using a 9.5 / 2.5 pulley combination.

Your stock cam is the biggest bottleneck to all of this, but ethanol will help a LOT to overcome the heat and timing needed. Heads will be the second after the cam, so all of my suggestions are on the assumption that you will inevitably upgrade (because let's face it, you will) - just stay conservative on the tune until this happens and favor the Corn until it happens. Remember: Aluminum blocks and hyperutectic pistons do not like pre-detonation at high cylinder pressures.

Thank you for your service!

 

Although you have already bought parts, I'd say your fuel system looks good - I'd start with the ID1300's as you will inevitably upgrade.

Also, skip the 1-piece driveshaft, I don't think it's a great investment until the diff shits a brick on you (and when you upgrade the diff, the aftermarket companies include a 1-piece driveshaft in their package prices). Avoid carbon fiber at all costs.

Lastly, since you're not in a rush, I'd encourage your buddy to do a test fit with the ARH headers FIRST, and then ship them off to Swaintech Coatings for their white-lightening ceramic coating. I have it on mine, much better than the other run of the mill coatings (jet hot, etc) and will do wonders keeping heat in the exhaust, where it belongs.

I'd save the heads/cam/lifters for all at once, as the labor overlaps quite a bit. I'd also consider heads/cam/lifters a great "maintenance" upgrade depending on the miles and how hard you drive it. But your bolt-on list already should give you a real bump in fun over stock. Instead of the heads/cam/lifters, I'd get the blower ported as that will give you another pound or two of boost and set you up for success when the head/cam swap realizes itself later on; using a 9.5 / 2.5 pulley combination.

Your stock cam is the biggest bottleneck to all of this, but ethanol will help a LOT to overcome the heat and timing needed. Heads will be the second after the cam, so all of my suggestions are on the assumption that you will inevitably upgrade (because let's face it, you will) - just stay conservative on the tune until this happens and favor the Corn until it happens. Remember: Aluminum blocks and hyperutectic pistons do not like pre-detonation at high cylinder pressures.

Thank you for your service!

I wanted the 1300s but when I saw the 1050x for 800 new on Black Friday and knowing it would be almost 2 years before I did upgrades to need bigger. I went ahead and got them for now. I'm looking into a filter for the E now.

I didn't even go Carbon on my GT500. I've seen and heard about a slight knick destroying the CF driveshaft and so expensive to replace and not really repairable. I'd stick with aluminum or Steel if need be. I'll hold off until its needed.

I'll let him know. I wonder if how that coating is applied. He has a powder coating business and an oven big enough to do it in.

I did buy the service to have the blower ported along with the snout. Should be easy to do since the new blower has about 150 miles on it now. I did want to upgrade to do most the options that come with the cam kits. Oil pump, springs, pushrods, upgraded chain, etc as well. In the mean time, I will be reading on having FED stg 2 factory ported heads or Aftermarket castings along with a shelf cam or custom spec.

Is the 9.5 going to be too big of a lower if most my available fuel is going to be 91? I was thinking 9.1 max to keep the overall blower speed down for more longevity and heat. This is best to be done when doing the cam change correct? or doesn't matter really. I was thinking of getting the ATI 8.66 for when these all get installed in a couple months before the tune. Then when the cam is upgraded, go bigger like the 9.1 or 9.5.

 

Update to my build.

Was able to install the following while I was home on vacation from overseas.
Airaid intake
Griptec 2.5 Pulley
100mm idler
Gates Green Belt
Solid isolator
Track Attack HE
Varimax pump
3/4" lines
Dual Catch Can
Ported Snout & Supercharger
Ported 90mm Throttle Body
ID1050x
DSX Flex Fuel sensor kit
DW dual 300c drop in pumps
2" ARH headers and x pipe

Then I took it to the tuner I want to use and he was going to squeeze it in. He was able to but there was some bad wires around the fuel pump area and a cracked 90* that they had to fix. The time they spent on that delayed the tune. Still waiting for it and curious what power it will put out.

Think at the end of the year I will look into the other parts to complete out the build. If I end up not wanting to spend that kind of money, will hold off.

• ported stock heads
• Cam w/supporting mods
• Interchiller install
• Lower pulley
• Stage 2 ALM hat
• AUX pump kit
• Fuel Lab filter installed
• 160* thermostat installed
• Wheels/tires or just some MT ET streets for the rear
• New shocks

 

Well I'm still waiting on the tuner. Ended up needing to order the ALM Stage 2 hat. Gonna have them install my Interchiller, Fuel lab filter and thermostat while they are waiting.

Been reading and researching a lot. Reading every Rubberduck post that he makes trying to learn. I have decided that this year I will do some minor resto mods to the car such as new shocks, grilles, fix the door trim and get a good paint correction in.

I was leaning towards aftermarket heads for a little bit. But then was looking at a built motor like a 388 and keep the stock ported blower. Then was looking at a 416 or 427 and then went down a rabbit hole. haha

Not sure if I want to do aftermarket heads that would work with a 388 LSX later or just port the stock heads with FED or WCCH, get a cam spec'd to match and keep that setup until I get a motor. If I do that, it would make sense to get a Kong 2650 or just keep the ported stock blower because of how I use the car.

Decisions, decisions.

If you have advice from experience, please feel free to chime in.

Ultimately the car will be a fun cruiser and not dedicated drag car.

 

If higher mileage, I'd get a build long block from Thompson Motorsports (or similar), and sell off the original.

I got my long block for like $6k net that way.

You're going to do it, so why not just do it now? Cheaper in the long run.

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If higher mileage, I'd get a build long block from Thompson Motorsports (or similar), and sell off the original.

I got my long block for like $6k net that way.

You're going to do it, so why not just do it now? Cheaper in the long run.

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Car has 104,000 miles on it. Had 101,000 when I purchased it a year ago and was completely stock. Owned by an older gentleman in Florida.

Im in southwest Missouri so Dallas area would only be a 6 hour drive. I believe TME is around that area.

So sounds like for now, just run what I have and get a long block. Not to worry about cam and heads or even lower pulley since that will all be in the new long block. Which means I have about a year to research and figure out the setup.

Which way do you suggest for the long block then? Stock cube sleeved block, LSX block, DART, etc

I'm leaning towards a 388 DART block probably with their TME M311 heads that come on it. Not sure if the 1300 or 1500 one. Difference seems to be 1500(Callie's center counterweight crank, CP Carillo Bullet I beam 4330 rods) and 1300(K1 4340 forged crankshaft 3.622 or 4.000", Manley H-Heavy 4340 Forged rods with ARP2000). Pistons and everything else seems to be the same. $500 difference between the two IRON blocks. Aluminum DART seems to be $1,400 - $1,900 more.

Or get the 388 DART 1500 hp short block and add MAST Black Label LS3/LS7 295 heads. Custom cam and I believe LS7 cam gear if I read that right. Comes out to about the same as the 388/ M311 setup but with 2.20/2.25 intake valves depending on which website you read.

Or an LSX block with all the same.

 

I do a CCW Dart with the best heads you can afford.


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You need to go 454 displacement.

 

So I've been on the research of where to live after my tour overseas. 99% sure I will end up in Denver. So that gives me direction for how/what to do with my build.

I asked a well known head porter about porting my stock heads and do a cam/lower pulley on SBE if I'm going to Denver with the 91/e85 availability and 5,200 ft elevation.

They told me "Honestly an older motor would do better with higher power than a new motor. Looser clearances allow for more expansion with power."

I've narrowed down my path to 3 choices. (supercharger is already ported and have a 2.5 pulley, headers, 1050x, fuel pumps, flex fuel, cooling system)

So feel free to give me some direction so I can learn. This is a fun/ date night/ occasional drive to school purposed car.

Elevation is new to me on how octane/ air density/ etc effects the engine.

1) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART with M311 heads
2) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART Eliminator short block and use my stock top end
3) Max effort port on my heads, Custom spec cam or LT1Z 2 or 2.5, ATI balancer and 9.1 lower, DDP intake, 103mm Throttle body.



Looking foward to your thoughts @random84 and @Rubber Duck and anyone else. Hope its alright I tagged you both.

 

At elevation, there's much less oxygen to go round. That means you'll want to run e85 as an oxygenated fuel whenever possible and good compression.

There are no bad choices, but I like either of the first two: I doubt there's a huge cost savings to sending your heads out for porting and rework and labor and shipping versus just buying the Dart Eliminator / M113 package ready to go.

Cam choice is another conversation on its own, if you have the ability to change it.

But yeah, E85. 10:1 compression, and expect to get a 2650 blower soon. I wouldn't sink a ton of money into your 1.9L - sell it and upgrade. Kong 2650 with a ZL1 lid or the Maggie 2650 (which looks more promising)... or just run the 1.9 as is until your budget allows!

Since your stock motor is in good shape, you'll be able to recoupe several grand by selling the longblock. Combined with a turn-key longblock from TME, you'll come out ahead versus tearing everything down and selling off bits and pieces (IMHO).

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I honestly am not sure how much more I could put into my 1.9L. It is ported currently with the 102 snout done. Solid isolator and a 2.5 pulley. Also less than 1,000 miles on it. (got it warranted and new from GM) I guess I could get like a full tilt port from Jokerz or Kong. Brick is reinforced. I have -12 lines going in/out of the lid. Besides an extra port and different lid, I'm unsure of what else can be done to it.

I think with 91 and elevation, upper 600's on pump would be good. Which I think with e85, would get me mid 700's. I think thats a realistic goal for stock motor. I think if I remember ready Rubber Duck's posts, a 388 would require more CFM than the blower could produce and the M311 heads might flow at or more CFM than the blower can. So if I wanted to stay around mid 700's, that would work out.
Reading on some charts I found out. A Stage 2 ported LSA head with 2.18/1.6 valves, 70cc, Intake volume 292cc. This flows 380 / 261 cfm at 0.600 lift. Tested at 28"H20, 4.065 flow plate bore. The M311's flow 2.165/1.6, 72cc, Intake volume 273cc. Flows 360 / 253 at 0.600 lift. Tested 28"H20, 4.125 flow plate bore.

If I understand that right, does the Stage 2 outflow M311's? or does the flow plate bore make a difference?

I was just reading on Atmospheric Pressure vs. Elevation above Sea Level about the air pressure differences and see its 2.5 psia lower. A forum I found that on said if you take the new psia divided by sea level (12.2/14.7 = 0.83) then they took 1/0.83 = 1.204 so according to this forum post you would take the LSA compression ratio of 9.1:1 x 1.204 = 10.956 to which if I understand correctly, would bring it back to "Factory power at elevation." Not sure if thats correct but that is my interpretation of it. If thats the case, then if I make 700 wheel at 400' elevation (where my tuner is) then at Denver my car will make approx 580 wheel. (700x0.83).


In my mind I think I could get about at least $10,000 out of my LSA Long block, $4,000 for short block. Looking at eBay and Hawk Motorsports used engines. They list for $13,000 w/86k miles engine only no supercharger, ($13,500 with 100k miles w/6L90, $11,000 w/ 196k miles w/ 6L90, with a few between 13,500 and 15,200, all w/supercharger)

1) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART with M311 heads ($13,265 plus labor with added lower 9.2 pulley and any extra parts)
2) TME 1,500 hp 388" DART Eliminator short block and ported stock top end ($11,650 for short block, studs, ported heads plus labor & extra parts, 9.2 lower, includes cam/oil pump, windage tray)
a) Playing with calculators, with a 4.125/3.622, -2cc pistons, 0.05 gasket and stage 2 ported LSA heads with 70cc Chamber brings compression up to 11.05 which sounds like it would just offset the elevation.
b) They can include a cam on the website order of (222/235, 595/595, 120+4) which according to Rubber Duck is a -11.5 overlap cam. Their other choice for ported 1.9/2.3 blower is (233/249, 630/600, 120+4) This being a +1 overlap cam. Which may not be bad but I was trying to go by his advice I've read and stay around -6 to 0* overlap.

The above prices would also be minus LSA long block/ short block selling price. My Excel product says if 10k for long block, net cost would be 4k plus labor or 5.6k plus labor with 1300x.

3) Max effort port on my heads, Custom spec cam or LT1Z 2 or 2.5, ATI balancer and 9.1 lower, DDP intake, 103mm Throttle body, maybe DSX aux pump and 1300x injectors. ($$$ Waiting on my tuner/builder to quote me on this but rough estimate is $3,600 keeping my Airaid intake and LS3 throttle body/ $5,000 including DDP/103mm/ $7,800 including aux pump & 1300x injectors) plus labor.

Sorry for the long post. This is just all my thought process from reading around today at work.

 

side note I forgot to add. If I understand correctly, if you tune a car at sea level and go up in elevation, the tune/car will be fine since there is less air. If you tune at elevation and go to sea level, you need higher octane and/or booster like Torco. So if this states true, I plan to have the car built and tuned for 91 octane/ e85 pump at 400' elevation where home is currently. That way to alleviate needing a retune up at elevation.

 

Trusting "flow numbers" on aftermarket cylinder heads is about as accurate as comparing one guy's dyno results in Pennsylvania to another guy on a different dyno in California. You can chalk that up to advertising (propaganda)? That doesn't mean either set of heads isn't good, it just means comparing them in that manner would be fraught with potential error on an actual, running engine. You're smart to note the plate bore sizing, as a larger bore unshrouds the valve leading to potentially better flow numbers, but even the flow benches, valve sizing, porting style and runner volume and a dozen other small variables all can skew that data. Take it with a grain of salt.

I'd instead try to see what kind of results people are getting in the real world with each head, or just pick one based on company reputation and go.

At the end of the day, I'm still a fan of a built long-block. It almost always becomes more expensive to piece-meal it yourself with death from a thousand cuts. Bumping up compression is a good thing, but increasing compression by 1.2x will not give you 1.2x more power.

I think you're optimistic with your used engine pricing. You're not a retail location, you don't have a longstanding history of customer service and list price is almost never the actual "sale price." But I still think $6-7k is realistic for a used LSA off the top of my head, in good running order, without knowing more details of your setup. FWIW I did get $6k for mine and the guy came and picked it up after driving a few hours. It had something like 86,000 miles and professionally installed trickflow heads, so a little more desirable.

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Anyway, if you tune your car at sea level, it would be rich at elevation assuming the fuel delivery was unchanged as there is relatively less air for the same amount of fuel. If you tune it for elevation (lower oxygen content) and drop back down to sea level, it would be lean. This is not something you actually need to worry about in the real world, generally speaking.

Modern cars in general account for elevation changes and adjust fuel delivery accordingly. In the V2, the ECM is very good for accounting for this (barometer adjustments) and it is all incorporated into the tune, requiring little adjustment from a competent tuner. A few hundred feet is no big deal.

 

Trusting "flow numbers" on aftermarket cylinder heads is about as accurate as comparing one guy's dyno results in Pennsylvania to another guy on a different dyno in California. You can chalk that up to advertising (propaganda)? That doesn't mean either set of heads isn't good, it just means comparing them in that manner would be fraught with potential error on an actual, running engine. You're smart to note the plate bore sizing, as a larger bore unshrouds the valve leading to potentially better flow numbers, but even the flow benches, valve sizing, porting style and runner volume and a dozen other small variables all can skew that data. Take it with a grain of salt.

I'd instead try to see what kind of results people are getting in the real world with each head, or just pick one based on company reputation and go.

At the end of the day, I'm still a fan of a built long-block. It almost always becomes more expensive to piece-meal it yourself with death from a thousand cuts. Bumping up compression is a good thing, but increasing compression by 1.2x will not give you 1.2x more power.

I think you're optimistic with your used engine pricing. You're not a retail location, you don't have a longstanding history of customer service and list price is almost never the actual "sale price." But I still think $6-7k is realistic for a used LSA off the top of my head, in good running order, without knowing more details of your setup. FWIW I did get $6k for mine and the guy came and picked it up after driving a few hours. It had something like 86,000 miles and professionally installed trickflow heads, so a little more desirable.

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Anyway, if you tune your car at sea level, it would be rich at elevation assuming the fuel delivery was unchanged as there is relatively less air for the same amount of fuel. If you tune it for elevation (lower oxygen content) and drop back down to sea level, it would be lean. This is not something you actually need to worry about in the real world, generally speaking.

Modern cars in general account for elevation changes and adjust fuel delivery accordingly. In the V2, the ECM is very good for accounting for this (barometer adjustments) and it is all incorporated into the tune, requiring little adjustment from a competent tuner. A few hundred feet is no big deal.

Thanks for all the insight.

I talked to my tuner/ builder last night. He also suggests built long block and that is what he is looking into for me now. I'll do research today on the heads and see what people actually are making along with the other variables. Location, dyno used/track times, cam, ported blower, blower speed, etc. My builder suggested PRC heads but really likes FED as well. Will see what they suggest in the next week. I told him no rush as the machine shop parts are out 2-4 months from talking to him.

I know increasing compression by 1.2x will not give me 1.2x power. I think it would give me close to the playing field with elevation change. haha

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So summary from my tuner

1) The tuner/boss of the shop runs Rocky Mountain Race week and is very familiar with the exact elevation changes I'll be encountering and said my tune will be set up safe for both home and elevation.
2) Looking at getting me a LSX or Dart block 388" motor. He said to expect around 13,000 overall cost of the longblock. Also to expect at least January or later for it. I told him I'm not returning from overseas until July next year so there is time.
3) They are gonna look/ advertise my long block and see what they can get for it. All the mods I've done have not been actually ran on the motor other than around the parking lot awaiting the tune. Has only a start up tune on it currently. So essentially 104,000 mile untouched motor.
4) His cam guy is going to custom spec build a cam for me. Told him I was keeping stock transmission and converter, wanted to keep LSA around 120 for better drivability (that is if I understand 120 is better than 116 for that kind of thing) and to keep the overlap to -5* to 0*. He said back he would like to keep it between -6* to -2* and around low 600 lift. Be curious what it would be but sounded good to me.

 

What about transmission, axles and diffential?

 

Will do the axles and differential with my bonus this time next year. The car doesnt get driven that much. 2,000 miles a year or less. (I'm stationed overseas) Plus my brother is absolutely scared shitless to get rowdy with anything that has power. I sold my Diesel truck with 700/1300 wheel power and he had me put it on the tow tune (roughly 550/900 wheel) because it got squirely on him once.

I'm not sure how well the transmission will hold up to that, but I do know its a lot about the tune in it.

As a side note. I'm not taking the car to the drag strip and running it. Will have most likely have a 80-100 tread wear tire on it and be street driven. Maybe a street radial. I'm also building this not for max effort with the setup. So the 427/2650 may be capable of 1,000 rwhp but I'll have it in the 800's on e85.

The car is being built at 400' elevation but will live once I start driving it at 5,000' elevation. So even my 1,000 wheel is going to be in the low 800's I'm guessing or maybe mid 700's due to have only pump 91 and e85 in the region.

 

After talking with my builder last night. This is the plan of action. Going with 388 so there is less torque to strain on the drivetrain

• Dart block
• Dart CCW crank
• Callie’s Ultra H beam rods
• 10:1 - 10.5:1 pistons
• Brodix BP BR 3 heads (gonna ask about upgrading to a 2.20 valve)
• FIC 1300 injectors
• DSX Aux fuel pump
• DDP intake

They are gonna sell my long block and if the buyer wants, supercharger, injectors, throttle body as well. Which will drive the following

• Kong or Magnuson 2650
• Kong 112mm TB or NW 103mm.

Said that build times will take roughly 4-5 months. I told him perfect because I can’t come home from overseas for about 8 months.

 

FIC injectors? Lol

That's like catering Thanksgiving Dinner at your luxurious, trendy suburban home in the upscale part of town, having the fine china and all the fixin's laid out with a nice selection of wine - and then using plastic forks.



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I don't know random...pat g recommended fic injectors to me. But I do often eat with plastic forks.haha

 

They are Fuel Injection Connection.
The shop uses them, DW and I think he said Bosch injectors.

If some ID1300x are on sale for Black Friday, I’ll grab a set

 

We have the 1300x2 in stock with good pricing

 

I'm pretty sure FICs have had mixed results. Not that they don't work - just they are less consistent and have given guys some idle issues in the past on bigger builds.

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Random-do you know if this might be related to the stock fuel rails? I remember from somewhere (?) someone saying they chased a hot start/idle issue all over but problem was resolved with billet fuel rails. For reference, I do remember 416 CID, heads, cam, ID 1300’s, etc etc. Apologies for not citing my source; suppose I could do a search or just ask…


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I haven't done it, but I believe the OEM fuel lines will fit if you cut the front mount off. Test fitting will answer that question.

I like the DSX lid, but whether you buy the premium lid or not is less critical than using the Kong lid.

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I haven't done it, but I believe the OEM fuel lines will fit if you cut the front mount off. Test fitting will answer that question.

I like the DSX lid, but whether you buy the premium lid or not is less critical than using the Kong lid.

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Awesome. Thank you for the insight. Will keep that thought for when it gets to that stage. Hopefully in the next few months there will be more feedback from more running the Magnuson 2650.

 

saw this on a Facebook group. Looked like @CUIN8SEC car. Not sure if it’s him. Apparently can’t tag him but curious about what he said.

 

Maggie has always had a mixed history with this forum. It's a bit of a gamble but "on paper" it should be the better blower.

 

Whipple has always had a mixed history with this forum. It's a bit of a gamble but "on paper" it should be the better blower.

I thought he was referencing the new Maggie 2650 and not the Whipple.
Either way, makes me wonder what is up with the pulley multiplication on both.

 

@random84 if I remember correctly, your DW300, ALM stage 2 hat, aux pump supported 830 rwhp on 93 didn’t it? Did you have the fuel rails or factory.

What was the issue that made you switch to your own custom feed lines?

 

I was speaking hypothetically about the Maggie. I have no knowledge of any failures - I just was pointing out that it's so new, we could have a different perspective in a few months.

Yes, my DW300, ALM hat and Aux pump cleared 840 RWHP with ease on 93 (aftermarket rails and ID1300x2s). I was at 90+ duty cycle when switching to ethanol (a big difference - like 30% increase in fuel demand).

I only switched because I had plans to pulley up more and make more power, so I wanted the head room. Replacing the lines freed up more restrictions and improved my headroom on ethanol markedly. I think my current setup will easily cover 4-digit power with room to spare on ethanol.

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Okay I got my build list back from my builder. Gonna try to upload the pics as attachments below. Tried to put them in this message but they too big.

I found the company they are using. Seems they say this combo is good for 2,000 hp. I know I'll never ever get there but the price seem to come out higher than we anticipated. So with this list of parts below, I was told it would be a complete drop in. No need to for anything else for it to run.

So this is basically a complete long block. Using my Factory supercharger and components.
I was anticipating 13-15k. Price came out to $19,250 plus tax and labor ($4,400)

Not sure if I want to put in what I spent buying the car (30k) on a new motor setup with the new motor and a Kong.

Thoughts on this? Or is this just how things are now with the supply chain?
Half tempted now to just do ported heads, cam, lower and see how it does.

@Rubber Duck

Sir, What are your thoughts on this setup for a Factory ported LSA blower. I honestly dont know the cam specs but from the talks I've had and what I do know is, overlap will be between -6* to -2* with low 600 lift and the LSA will be good for daily driving/factory transmission so I would think 118 to 120 area.

 

Negative overlap is going a bit small for a 388 with some compression IMO but it doesn’t say any specifics there.

 

Is the aim to have as close to zero as possible then? It was my understanding that if you had any positive overlap, that meant the intake and exhaust valve would be open at the same time. Something like a 232/248 with a 120 would have a zero. Where a 232/250 with a 120 has a +1.
That equates to 1* of rotation where both valves are open. I’m still trying to learn about all of this but there may be things I don’t know with camshafts that would throw me for a whirl on what I currently understand.

 

I did talk this build over with the fiancé. She said as long as it doesn’t affect our ability to buy a house in 3 years, to go for it.

I’m taking another night to sleep on it but if I decide to press forward, then I’ll ask more specifics about the camshaft.

I’ll also be doing fuel upgrades first even though I’ll be on the stock 1.9.

 

I feel like $26k is full MSRP and then some for that - but I haven't prices anything out lately. Certainly a nice collection of parts!

The labor seems decent.. It's a big job. For a turn-key solution ready to go, certainly fair.

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The shop told me it’s a complete setup, just pull out my motor, swap accessories and supercharger w/components and it’s done.
I priced it on the website where they are getting the motor. The short block is $9,500 and the heads assembled are $5,200. The rest is the rear seals/cover, front seal/cover, cam and timing gear, billet valve covers, oil pan(looks to be Moroso with windsge tray), oil pump and whatever other miscellaneous components there are.
So to me, I can account for $16,000 off the website. I didn’t look at the head gasket prices or the timing components and such. But the motor was only $3,250 more so I imagine that’s a chunk for shipping, the timing components, misc gaskets that I missed, the front and rear stuff.

I know I’d only be using about 50% effort of what the motor is built for though. So should take the abuse. Also is not accounting for whatever the long block would sell for. Valve covers to oil pan.

 

Well. Gave the go ahead to my tuner/builder last night to proceed.

This may be a bit more than I expected so will run the factory supercharger for now unless the buyer to my long block wants that as well.

Plus side is the supercharger was just replaced by warranty 500 miles ago. Has the updated isolator in it and has been ported for 102mm. Have 15 minutes of run time on the reinforced brick, id1050x, ported LS7 throttle body and airaid intake. SO even though I know it will not get the air/CFM it needs, it'll have to make due for now until this time next year when I have more funds after my annual vacation back to the US. Then will upgrade at that point. Otherwise if it sells, then will still run the injectors/tb/intake/brick/lid I have. Since I'm out of country, Probably wont have many updates for a few months as the motor will also take about the same amount of time.

Thanks for the inputs and guidance thus far.

 

Well. Gave the go ahead to my tuner/builder last night to proceed.

This may be a bit more than I expected so will run the factory supercharger for now unless the buyer to my long block wants that as well.

Plus side is the supercharger was just replaced by warranty 500 miles ago. Has the updated isolator in it and has been ported for 102mm. Have 15 minutes of run time on the reinforced brick, id1050x, ported LS7 throttle body and airaid intake. SO even though I know it will not get the air/CFM it needs, it'll have to make due for now until this time next year when I have more funds after my annual vacation back to the US. Then will upgrade at that point. Otherwise if it sells, then will still run the injectors/tb/intake/brick/lid I have. Since I'm out of country, Probably wont have many updates for a few months as the motor will also take about the same amount of time.

Thanks for the inputs and guidance thus far.

A good thing to come back to.

 

Scored a deal (less than $1,700 for both) on a Nick Williams 103mm and ID1300 injectors. Guy had them on his car for 3 dyno pulls and ran out of fuel. Needed 1700 injectors and went back to his previous stock throttle body due to his custom made manifold and fitment.