There was a little discussion on this in another thread and I looked up PNs in the GM service parts catalog. None there, not for anything internal. Only PNs outside of the assembly were the seals.

On the bearings you should be able to get some numbers off of what is in there and source something quality on your own. Granted that means more down time than just pulling it apart with new parts there ready to go. On gears or anything else I think you are SOL at this point, probably forever given production numbers of Vs and them having a unique diff.

 

I dug and dug and dug thinking at some point some where the bearings had to have a supplier and PN called out. Can't find it.

Here's the only stuff that might help.

All 4 bearings look to be tapered roller bearings.

Side Bearings, appear to be standard taper roller bearings. 50 mm bore, 80 mm OD, 20 mm width. Timken single row IsoClass on page 404 of their catalog looks like it has a couple matches.

Front Pinion Bearing, can't explain why the side bearings are metric and the pinion bearings aren't but, 1 5/8" bore = 41.275 mm, 3 1/4" OD = 82.55 mm, 1.045" width = 26.54 mm. Timken single row Type TS on page 164 of their catalog looks like it has a couple matches at the bottom of the page.

Rear Pinion Bearing, this is a different sort of bearing with a bridgeless cage. Timken TSU bearings don't go large enough on the OD and I don't think it looks like a match to pin type bearings in their catalog either. Again not a metric sized bearing, 1 3/4" bore = 44.45 mm, 3 3/4" OD = 95.25 mm, a little unsure how the width is measured since I can't line it up in Timken's catalog but I'm going with 30.96 mm converted the measurement is 1.219.

 

This race is the right OD and the application actually says Cadillac?!?!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-hm804810/overview/

Nevermind, says it has a .9063" cup width and the cup width of the bearing should be 22.22 mm (.8748")

 

Bumping this because I found it trying to help someone. All I can find in any search is this shit I posted and someone saying the side bearing is SKF 32010. I was trying to align to Timken before. All the bearings described above match external dimensions with these SKF bearings. Note, the rear pinion I came up with two so I went back and measure "C" and this is the one that has the right "C" dimension.

Providing what I found. I have not attempted to rebuild one of these but here's what I can tell you.

side bearings are reported to be SKF 32010 and matching external dimensions up to their catalog supports that.
Tapered roller bearings, single row - 32010 X
front pinion bearing, SKF M 802048/011 from their catalog matches all external dimensions
Tapered roller bearings, single row - M 802048/011
Rear pinion bearing. SKF has this one that matches the external dimensions
Tapered roller bearings, single row - HM 903249/210

I'm confident those are the right bearings. Has anyone done it that can confirm?

 

Shit I'm just impressed you found this much info and came back almost two years later and updated the post.

 

I have access to the models to measure the bearings, that's how I got all the dimensions to line things up. I found this post again searching google looking for the bearing info for someone from another forum and since I couldn't find all of this any where here I figured I'd post it here too. This forum gets way more traffic than that other one and the people here are way more likely to use info like this.

Plus, the more places it is the more likely someone tries it and gives feedback and that'd be a nice thing to close the loop if I ever end up with a noisy rear end again. Though hopefully I never do with the cooler.

 

Holy crap, the thread on that other crap forum disappeared. I'm glad I put this info in more than one place so it wasn't lost!

 

I actually have a spare diff, has about 2000 miles on it since new. I had it replaced under warranty because it was a howler.
I would consider letting it be the test mule, I see no time for me to get into it in the foreseeable future.
My plan was to open it up and fix it but the new house/property is eating my lunch...

 

I actually have one in my garage that I'm going to tear into in the next week or so too.

 

If you run into another part you need a number for or some dimensions on for cross reference I'll work on getting you the info.

 

im about to tear into my rear diff i have no doubt that i have a bearing bad this page has given me a huge head start but im having a hard time finding somewhere i can even buy these part numbers. i have seen rockauto list an A67 national bearing for the rear pinion bearing can anyone confirm this?

 

I can't find the technical detail on the National Bearing like SKF has on their site. I think it might be larger though. I only see that bearing listed for the first gen Sigma cars (first gen CTS/STS). I wouldn't expect to find them listed on Rock Auto though. I'd google the bearing PN and expect to find it at some sort of bearing sales place as opposed to an auto parts place.

 

http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66347/457013.pdf

This is awesome, but doesn't have the A67 listed to see what it cross references to for SKF.

 

The first two bearings above have tons of cross reference hits when you search their numbers in that but 903249 has one. It's a Mopar PN. Not sure if that helps.

 

I think this is the same bearing?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...BRABEiwA0xwsPxIZMl98El-V5HZAcA7Sw5aj8VyEDdwOAUaO7Hho5rcWxh79wL5kDhoCJSoQAvD_BwE
I'm not certain about the / part of the PN I originally listed.

 

HM903249 is the bearing and HM903210 is the cup. That's what the / is for. Thanks to Amazon for helping me realize that by putting the cup in the other things people that bought this bought.
So, M802048 should be the bearing and M802011 should be the cup for the other bearing.

Hope that helps anyone looking find what they need.

 

It also looks like the bearing PNs are kind of standardized among manufacturers as all the numbers mean something. So, the A67 I still wouldn't fuck with but if it has the same PN as the SKF part but from someone else you should be good.

 

I took apart my diff this week. All the part numbers are confirmed with what is stamped on the bearings with exception of the front pinion bearing. It's got a whole bunch of numbers and letters on it that don't match any part numbers. GM used all SKF bearings on these units.

My diff started whining in a dramatic fashion. I was pushing the Cadillac hard up a step grade and it suddenly started a high pitch whine that only made noise when under load. The rear diff hot advisory came on. I have driven it like this for like a month while trying to find a replacement diff. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a used unit of of eBay. It whines too but not as bad as my old one. Anyways long story short the whine was from the gear contact. Somehow the pinion backed out and started only making contact at the heel and started wearing away on both the pinion and the ring.

I think the root cause of all these problems is just a poor design. Not enough gear oil is getting to the bearings and these things are heating up, burning up and causing damage.

 

I took apart my diff this week. All the part numbers are confirmed with what is stamped on the bearings with exception of the front pinion bearing. It's got a whole bunch of numbers and letters on it that don't match any part numbers. GM used all SKF bearings on these units.

What are the numbers on the bearing that didn't line up? Does searching them lead to any revelations on what they might be that is different from what I had come up with based on dimensions?

 

Heat has been my opinion on the issues with them for a while. Doesn't take much to trip the thermostat on my diff cooler and get the pump running. They run hot and the temp warning is so high that the fluid is already dead if you see it

 

The front pinion bearing had the following markings on it
SKF BRAZIL 6W32F R6T1-0382/Q
The race was marked with the same but had 6W33E.
I bought a Timken HM802048 and it is the same dimensions. The tapered needle bearings themselves are a little smaller on the Timken bearing than the SKF. But the external dimensions are all the same.

Taking this thing apart was difficult. The flanges that the axles bolt to have a splined axle on the other side. The spline side of the axle flange is held in the limited slip carrier by c-clips. They are a pain to pry off without having special tools and a press. Once you can get the axle flanges out. The carrier with the ring gear comes off easily. The pinion needs to be pressed out. I beat on it with a dead blow hammer and it eventually came out. You'll need a bearing puller for the carrier bearings and the rear pinion bearing. The races seemed like they would be impossible to get out but then I saw a video online that said to weld on the face of the race. The race would shrink and it would fall right out. I used a TIG welder with no filler rod to eliminate sparks and spatter and it is definitely true. The races would fall right out when I flipped the diff over.

The carrier had 1 shim on the passenger side behind the pressed on bearing. The pinion had two shims behind the rear bearing that were showing wear from moving. My guess is that my pinion bearings got no oil going up the steep incline, got hot, expanded and started to sieze. This wore away at the shims and ground then down. The pinion was then freed and backed out and started making contact on the toe of the ring gear, causing all the damage. All bearings showed a little sign of wear but the front bearing definitely had it worst. The front pinion bearing gets oil through a 1/4 in hole at the bottom of the casting. This hole is partially blocked by the race so the pinion bearings don't get much lube. The 75W-90 must become like water at those temps. I have changed the fluid multiple times on the diff and there is always a vacuum as I pull the check plug out. The breather is definitely not doing its job an something funky is going on. I am probably going to overfill next time and try and go with a thicker gear oil.

I am going to rebuild my old diff and try and get a good gear mesh. The toe of the pinion and ring are worn but that area should not be making contact with a good mesh.

I bought a shim kit that seems to be the correct size for the pinion bearings. I will post the part number if it's a good fit when it comes in.

Hopefully, this helps someone and gives them the motivation to tear their own apart.

 

I finished the rebuild today. I am going to swap the diff in the coming days and see how good my work was. I drilled out the oil passages to provide more oil to the pinion bearing. I took out the stock breather and replaced it with a hose and check valve.

I used Motive Gear 1105 shim pack for the pinion bearing. There wasn’t a large variety of different size shims but enough to get the spacing I needed. I could never find a good shim pack for the carrier bearings. I ended up using the stock set as there would be no easy way to pull the races each time to make adjustment. Plus the case is closed in so you cannot measure backlash.

Lessons learned:
Do your best to save the old pinion bearings and keep them in good condition if they aren’t completely shot. You will need to grind down the inside of the old bearings with a Dremel so you can slide them on and off the pinion when using the marking compound to check the mesh.

Heat from a torch and dry ice are your friends when trying to get the bearings and races installed.

I ended up having to use a large 1 in thick piece of solid steel bridged across the inner pinion bearing and a sledgehammer to finally get it to seat.

Save all your old races even if you used the welding method to remove them. You will need them for hammering or pressing on while installing the new ones.

Overall it was like 200 bucks in parts to replace everything in the diff besides the ring and pinion and the limited slip carrier.
Carrier bearings: Timken 32010X (need 2) comes with races $22 each
Inner pinion bearing: Timken HM903249 $37
Inner pinion race: Timken HM903210 $21
Outer pinion bearing: Timken HM80204 $17
Outer pinion race: Timken HM802011 $5
Axle seals: AC Delco 291-341 (need 2) $6 each or GM 25995847
Pinion seal: AC Delco 25861283 $35
Pinion shim kit: Motive Gear 1105 $24
Gear marking compound $8

Ring gear is 9.5 in btw. Pinion is totally unique to this car from what I could find. If someone was motivated enough they could send their old ring and pinion into a gear company and have a custom set cut.

 

Bravo!





Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

This needs to get stickied.

 

Walkers4X4 did you use a dial indicator to set the lash or kept watching for the desired 'smear' an the R&P???
Big thanks for birddogging all those #'s....

 

I tried to get a dial indicator in through the drain plug to check backlash but I couldn’t reach the ring gear. Plus the teeth of the gear are on the other side. This design sucks with the whole unit sandwiching together. I kept checking the mesh with marking compound and changing the shims on the pinion.

I reinstalled the diff yesterday but it appears my ring and pinion were too far gone. The high pitched whine under load was still there. Talk about defeat after 7 hours under this thing in the heat, plus I’m gonna have to pull it again. So if you see any abnormal wear on your ring and pinion it is shot and not worth the effort. I am gonna break open the other diff I have and see if I can see any obvious wear or failure. This one makes noise all the time so it might have a better shot of being a bad bearing.

 

Second diff has a bad carrier bearing which makes sense because this one makes noise all the time. Good thing the carrier bearings are a lot cheaper and easier to install. I will repost what the results are from this diff rebuild.

 

Can you post pictures of your worn ring & pinion? Even if they make noise, are they really going to fail that quickly if they have fresh bearings?

 

I can't post pics because I don't have enough posts but you aren't missing much. The heel of the ring and the toe of the pinion have rough grinding on them. The face of the ring and pinion are both shiny polished surfaces and this is rough cuts at the ends of the gears. I'm gonna check the mesh again on it to see if something shifted after it was assembled in the car.

In my opinion the diff can make the types of noises.
1. Clnking or chattering particularly while making turns. This is caused by the limited slip failing or just not having the correct gear oil with the additive in it.
2. Low hum noise that is around all the time. It gets louder with speed but stays the same pitch. It is also always there whenever the wheels are turning.
3. High pitched gear whine. This is the ring and pinion not marrying up correctly. Can happen during acceleration, or deceleration.

My bad diff with the high pitched gear whine is so loud it sounds like there is a jet engine starting when you accelerate or are under load. It is so loud that it high pitch rattles things in the door and makes it feel like your fillings might fall out. This is not the picky " this thing is making a little noise and it shouldn't because it's a Cadillac". This is holy crap the gears are chewing themselves apart. I drove it this way for two months while trying to find a replacement and the damage was evident. I believe the diff would eventually fail with chipped teeth if I put another 10000 miles on it or pushed it really hard up hill.

Diff swap is coming this Saturday. I will let you guys know how stuff goes. If you really want pictures let me know and I'll figure out a way for you to see them.

 

In my opinion the diff can make the types of noises.
1. Clnking or chattering particularly while making turns. This is caused by the limited slip failing or just not having the correct gear oil with the additive in it.
2. Low hum noise that is around all the time. It gets louder with speed but stays the same pitch. It is also always there whenever the wheels are turning.
3. High pitched gear whine. This is the ring and pinion not marrying up correctly. Can happen during acceleration, or deceleration.

My bad diff with the high pitched gear whine is so loud it sounds like there is a jet engine starting when you accelerate or are under load. It is so loud that it high pitch rattles things in the door and makes it feel like your fillings might fall out. This is not the picky " this thing is making a little noise and it shouldn't because it's a Cadillac". This is holy crap the gears are chewing themselves apart. I drove it this way for two months while trying to find a replacement and the damage was evident. I believe the diff would eventually fail with chipped teeth if I put another 10000 miles on it or pushed it really hard up hill.

Ok yeah, I would definitely have pulled my diff at that point, too. The whine that mine makes under acceleration is only a little noticeable, and I can barely hear it over my stock mufflers, so it sounds like I am way waaaay off from where you are right now. Still, this info is awesome and I probably won't be holding onto my Ford 8.8 as a possible solution, haha.