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Cracked subframe

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#42 ·
A very cursory look at these tabs reveals what looks like a really stupid mistake made at the manufacturing level when the decision was made to use a square-faced cutting tool in the fly-cutter that relieved these tabs. This created a ridiculously concentrated stress point that could’ve been easily avoided with a radiused tool.


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#44 ·
BigDuderShooter said:
Yup, mine's cracked too. Looks like I'm pulling a sub frame and doing some welding today unexpectedly.

I cannot believe these highly loaded structural areas are machined sooo super thin, like 2-3 mm is shaved away leaving only about 3 mm remaining.
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How is your sub-frame project coming along? I have not checked mine yet, but after some research, I may just go ahead and remove my subframe and weld it anyway. I am attaching an older image of how I normally support and/or raise my engine if needed. I NEVER support engine weight on the oil pan for any reason. This cross support is excellent, I love it! I am still in planning/visualization stage for the order of operations. I expect to be able to remove the subframe without disturbing too much. I am interested to know your process plan. Currently replacing my pilot bearing with a bronze bushing and will check the subframe then. Thank you in advance, appreciate any suggestions...
Image
 
#45 ·
you don't have to remove the subframe. Just remove the lower control arms and weld up the cracks and reinstall and get it aligned. Pain in the ass getting the welding done.
 
#46 ·
Sudderth said:
you don't have to remove the subframe. Just remove the lower control arms and weld up the cracks and reinstall and get it aligned. Pain in the ass getting the welding done.
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How was the access, I haven't really got too far into this yet, but have been doing some research. That would be great to avoid removing the cradle! My plan is to all eight areas. Revshift and CS both sell bushings, do you have any thoughts between the two vendor type bushings? Also, I would like to use a nordlock type washer that has a raised portion similar in thickness of the mount material, any thoughts? Thank you Pictures if available please ;)
 
#48 ·
loweredd said:
Why can't that aftermarket cradle have provisions for a sway bar!!
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loweredd said:
Why can't that aftermarket cradle have provisions for a sway bar!!
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Think the after market looks pretty solid, was wondering the same thing, haven't called there yet. I also have a thought about the fixed motor mount plates? Would need to also locate some studs for the brake module, not a big deal, rivnut studs maybe?
 
#50 ·
You can weld the factory subframe but the heat from welding will burn up the lower control arm bushings. I would suggest removing the control arms prior to welding. But, you do not have to remove the subframe. I had mine welded and have ordered a lower control arm since the guy doing the welding pretty much cooked my rear most control arm bushing. Oh, well... Live and learn.
 
#51 ·
Sudderth said:
You can weld the factory subframe but the heat from welding will burn up the lower control arm bushings. I would suggest removing the control arms prior to welding. But, you do not have to remove the subframe. I had mine welded and have ordered a lower control arm since the guy doing the welding pretty much cooked my rear most control arm bushing. Oh, well... Live and learn.
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Excellent news!!!! I wasn't looking forward to the subframe removal!!!!
 
#52 ·
Sudderth said:
You can weld the factory subframe but the heat from welding will burn up the lower control arm bushings. I would suggest removing the control arms prior to welding. But, you do not have to remove the subframe. I had mine welded and have ordered a lower control arm since the guy doing the welding pretty much cooked my rear most control arm bushing. Oh, well... Live and learn.
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That aluminum transfers heat very well(!)


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#54 ·
Sudderth said:
You can weld the factory subframe but the heat from welding will burn up the lower control arm bushings. I would suggest removing the control arms prior to welding. But, you do not have to remove the subframe. I had mine welded and have ordered a lower control arm since the guy doing the welding pretty much cooked my rear most control arm bushing. Oh, well... Live and learn.
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Have another question, hope you can help? Is there any concern with BCMs or other electrical components if TIG welding cradle repair on the vehicle? Did you need to disconnect or isolate any electrical components? Thanks ;)
 
#58 ·
Sudderth said:
Mine welded right side
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Glad you got that done. Looks like you'll be replacing the bushing; note that while the bolt is out, you should hit that spot with a Dremel or similar to make sure that the weld isn't limiting your alignment range. Wont take much, just a small touch up to avoid the washer hitting the weld.
 
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RobF300
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