[Eighthtry]

1) Don't go over 40 mph and you likely won't have a problem. What you are seeing is tread separation. I don't know how old yoiur V is, but it can happen in two or threee years. A buddy of mine lost a tire on the front end of his of his 8 month old Ferrari. Factory tires. Other front was doing the same. He replaced all four. No alignment problems.

I had alignment problems on my V. Two consecutive times. First by the premier Cadillac dealer in Dalls. Second by the local Chevrolet dealer(what the hell, someone somewhere has to be proud of their work). Still two toasted front tires in just a few thousand miles. I printed the specs, including torque specs, hauled it in to an independent, and he allowed me to watch. He had the latest Hunter. I bought two new fronts again. Problem solved.

There are also some 200+ lb torque specs. I suspect those were not being followed.

Someone suggested Nordlock. I have no experience with them. I just know that my problem was solved by staying in spec.

 

[loweredd]

New tire vs old tire. It didn't "CRACK". Your car is not aligned correctly, and shaved off the "corner" of the tire. That tread groove is supposed to continue to the shoulder of the tire. YOURS is ground off, and worn through, which is why it is seperating. A "friend of a friend's friend" stories have NOTHING to do with your situation. Get new tires, get an alignment.

 

[loweredd]

 

[Kjwhit]

Had toyo r888r do this to me cracked all the way around and inner side wall bubble

 

[Rboughne1]

This dude's alignment is a mess, it's not the tire. I run R888R after MANY alignment issues, and they wear fine.

 

[L98 Z28]

This is an old thread, but we just had the same issue. Girlfriend's 2018 CTS-V was on its second set of Michelin PS 4S and I recently found that the inside edge of both front tires had worn through. The first set didn't have this issue. The alignment was checked and the front was fine, yet the tires had unusual wear. Came to this forum to see if there was any explanation. Car is in Florida, so no cold weather driving.

 

[SofaKingSlow]

Aftermarket wheels? Modified offset? Wider-than-stock tires?
Pics don't show anything besides odd tire wear. Are those the fronts or rears?

Looks like the tires have rubbed against the suspension.

 

[V8chopper]

I had the exact same issue.

 

[L98 Z28]

Tires were fronts, the same issue as OP. Car is stock. She's original owner and hasn't modified it. Tires were the same as OEM and installed by the dealer. Alignment is stock. Agreed it could look like rubbing, but didn't find rubber shavings stuck anywhere. Opinions in this thread implied the OP's issue was bad alignment which doesn't appear to be the case here. Is there a known issue where stock size PS 4S rub against the suspension? The tires looked a bit dry rotted even though they were 2021 date codes, not that that would cause this wear issue.

 

[RobF300]

Tires were fronts, the same issue as OP. Car is stock. She's original owner and hasn't modified it. Tires were the same as OEM and installed by the dealer. Alignment is stock. Agreed it could look like rubbing, but didn't find rubber shavings stuck anywhere. Opinions in this thread implied the OP's issue was bad alignment which doesn't appear to be the case here. Is there a known issue where stock size PS 4S rub against the suspension? The tires looked a bit dry rotted even though they were 2021 date codes, not that that would cause this wear issue.

View attachment 178808

go back to the dealer they May still be under warranty, and mine dont rub anything

 

[RocketSled]

IMO, no question that that inner shoulder wear is due to bad alignment. Shop says it's aligned, I'd take it to another shop. Too much camber, too much toe. These tires look exactly like tires that have come off a "stanced" car.

 

[L98 Z28]

Here's pics from the front and rear of the car. The fenders flair out at the top so they aren't a good reference for the camber. Anyone have pictures of their tires to share for comparison?

 

[MrSurly]

With the caveat that photos can be misleading... Your pictures show VISIBLE camber issues.

Note that the specs:
1. allow for a range -0.3~-1.5
2. can be a baseline or you can set it up OUTSIDE of spec if you choose. it's up to you.
3. allow for tuning the car's response to your driving style. More negative camber allows more lateral grip (at the expense of uneven wear) Less negative camber provides even tire wear at the expense of turn-in response.
(Negative camber can also make the steering "twitchy" or over-responsive on the highway)
If you drive aggressively, you'll want -1.0 or more... maybe even -1.8 or -2, if you autocross or you have that cloverleaf on the way to work that you always hit. Just keep in mind that if you keep it set up for aggressive, you will have this tire wear.
If you drive less aggressively (just normal daily driver stuff, you should have them set the camber at minimum spec (-0.3) or even neutral (0.0)
TELL the guy where to set it, it's your call.
Note that the other specs are also your call, but I wouldn't suggest changing caster or toe.

 

[RocketSled]

TELL the guy where to set it it, it's your call.

This. I always align with a more camber and a less toe than the factory settings. I don't go nuts, because hey, tires are expensive. But I never let the tech align to his chosen settings.