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So I'm new to this site and I only own a lowly CTS Sport Wagon. I was searching for info on this exact problem on my vehicle and came across this discussion. I can now verify that it is also happening on the non v models as well. See photos below. I'm hoping that I can get a welder to come out to my house to do it on site. So far, it's only on the driver side rear tab. No lift in my garage so I'll have to get it as high as I can on jack stands and remove the lower control arm so the bushings don't fry. Good write-up fellas. Thanks for all the info.



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Does anyone have a recommendation on a welder in my area. North Fort Worth, Texas, 76052?
Thanks again!
 
I had a mobile welder do it in my Las Vegas area. Three passes cooked the bushing and I had to replace the lower control arm. Don't know about Ft Worth. If it were me I would remove the lower control arm to protect the bushings. Mine was cracked on the lower control arm, passenger, rear... This should be a recall and I am sad for Cadillac not making it right. The machining should have a radius and not just a pocket mill that allowed the crack to materialize and propagate.
 
Oh, Just replaced the lower control arm correct the incinerated bushing. Gotta love Rockauto for replacement parts. torquing the control arms is a difficult process given the values.
 
Thanks for the insight. Mine is on the lower control arm driver rear. My plan was to remove the lower control arm and hopefully find a welder that can do a house call to weld it up. I'm going to check with a local muffler shop as they have a lot of experience with aluminum and awkward angles.

It's a shame that Cadillac doesn't care enough to address a known problem through their fleet. I guess there haven't been enough fatality accidents to trigger a recall. What's really scary is that I probably wouldn't have seen this if I wasn't looking for the notorious low speed front end noise that is so common with the CTS's.

Can you share more about the torque process?
 
Thanks for the insight. Mine is on the lower control arm driver rear. My plan was to remove the lower control arm and hopefully find a welder that can do a house call to weld it up. I'm going to check with a local muffler shop as they have a lot of experience with aluminum and awkward angles.

It's a shame that Cadillac doesn't care enough to address a known problem through their fleet. I guess there haven't been enough fatality accidents to trigger a recall. What's really scary is that I probably wouldn't have seen this if I wasn't looking for the notorious low speed front end noise that is so common with the CTS's.

Can you share more about the torque process?
Yeah, it would be interesting to learn just how many occurrences there actually are?
 
So I'm new to this site and I only own a lowly CTS Sport Wagon. I was searching for info on this exact problem on my vehicle and came across this discussion. I can now verify that it is also happening on the non v models as well. See photos below. I'm hoping that I can get a welder to come out to my house to do it on site. So far, it's only on the driver side rear tab. No lift in my garage so I'll have to get it as high as I can on jack stands and remove the lower control arm so the bushings don't fry. Good write-up fellas. Thanks for all the info.



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Make sure to use nord-lock type lock washers when you re-install the control arm.
 
You can add me to the ist with a cracked subframe. At this point it is more of a shy hairline on the passenger side rear tab. But it certainly won't get any better over time and I need to fix it soon aswell.
 
Yup, mine's cracked too. Looks like I'm pulling a sub frame and doing some welding today unexpectedly.

I cannot believe these highly loaded structural areas are machined sooo super thin, like 2-3 mm is shaved away leaving only about 3 mm remaining.
Mine is also cracked pretty bad. I bought a 2011 CTS Coupe and spent about 10k making her look pretty but i've had her for about a year and a half and its mostly been in the shop to get her dolled up and no one noticed not even Les Schwabs when i replaced the shocks, struts, upper & lower control arms front and back. I jacked up my girl and her subframe is cracked big time. I"ve been driving out of town here and there and its my daily driver. I'm gonna try and get some pics of it and post them soon till then this is what she looks like
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Mine is also cracked pretty bad. I bought a 2011 CTS Coupe and spent about 10k making her look pretty but i've had her for about a year and a half and its mostly been in the shop to get her dolled up and no one noticed not even Les Schwabs when i replaced the shocks, struts, upper & lower control arms front and back. I jacked up my girl and her subframe is cracked big time. I"ve been driving out of town here and there and its my daily driver. I'm gonna try and get some pics of it and post them soon till then this is what she looks like View attachment 160143
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Just for clarification, the cracks in yours are common to the LCA flanges, or is there an additional location to also be concerned?
 
Just for clarification, the cracks in yours are common to the LCA flanges, or is there an additional location to also be concerned?
That's what it looks like to me. I checked the other side and it's fine. Did a lot more reading and a couple of guys on this page said not to worry about it and it's just a casting flaw. I don't buy it. That area looks machined to me. I'll do a penetrant dye check to confirm the crack. Not sure I want to drive it though. Bad things happen when you lose a wheel at any speed.
 
The casting is pocket machined and the radius was not machined which would have eliminated the stress point. Mine is welded and the guy went overboard with three passes so he cooked the lower control arm bushing. If you have cracks and need to weld them remove the lower control arm from the subframe to keep from having to replace the lower control arm. Should be a recall with the frame cracking on these cars. Designed for a 300 horsepower V6 and put in 556 horsepower and things happen...
 
The casting is pocket machined and the radius was not machined which would have eliminated the stress point. Mine is welded and the guy went overboard with three passes so he cooked the lower control arm bushing. If you have cracks and need to weld them remove the lower control arm from the subframe to keep from having to replace the lower control arm. Should be a recall with the frame cracking on these cars. Designed for a 300 horsepower V6 and put in 556 horsepower and things happen...
That's the plan. I found a fabricator in my area that has quality work posted on his website. Going to pay him a visit today after work to come up with a plan. I'll probably end up changing both LCAs as well because of the notorious CTS knocking sound at low speed. I'll be sure to post pics.
 
for CTS without AWD it does show 2 different part numbers from standard to V, so not exactly the same but could be same casting with different mounting stuff
 
MrSurly has this spot on. Even with the control arm in place the gap closed up and made it difficult to remove the control arm and install and do the alignment on the new control arm.
 
I have not seen that yet. the crack goes about 75 percent of the way and you see it. I was changing my oil and looked over and was shocked. I don't track my car and don't go crazy on corners. The material should be thicker and the pocket milling should have a radius rather than just sharp edged. The way it was done makes it cheaper. Remember the subframe, in this area, are a casting.
 
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