So when the car is off, the bypass blade is all the way open?

 

I'll take a picture of mine when I get home.

Who you talk to, it will very. Essenitally, Bolt the thing up - While it's loose push it back as far as it will go and tighten the bolt's. The little black screw should not be or barely touching the plate.. This very's from person to person. Per LPE instructions it says to tighten the screw until it is touching the plate and once it barely touch's than turn it another quarter turn.

 

So at idle, the actuator pulls the blade open and the blade is shut when the car is off. I'm thinking out loud here.

I can't mount mine as far towards the engine as I should be able to because my adjustment screw is threaded so far in that it pushes on the rod, which opens the bypass blade. I had to mount the actuator as far away from the engine as I could. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm thinking about just ordering a new actuator.

 

Take the two mounting bolts out, remove the assembly. Then use a decent quality Allen key socket and loosen the actuator screw, it will turn with a little force. Once you reassemble into place, push the whole actuator towards the engine as far as it goes, then make your adjustment on the set screw. I put a small amount of blue loctite on the threads of the screw just to keep it in place.

 

returning to this now that ive got some other items in line.

since i cant adjust the tune and the tune was set up with the thing unhooked... can i?

-do the proper set up of the bypass mount and screw. (to get good bypass under normal driving) THEN

unhook the pressure side.

this would allow me to keep max boost yes?

on other s/c and turbo set ups feeding boost and vac to the bypass allows it to open faster, but will still open with only vac. is this true for us? or will wide open to fully closed throttle bypassing be greatly impaired?

lastly.should the line from the manifold TO the solenoid be removed/capped, or just line from the solenoid to the actuator pressure side

and lastly lastly, should the solenoid be unplugged at any point for any of this (unlikely)

thanks.

 

Wanted to bump this and thank everyone (especially Performance Defined) for posting in here. Car has 40xxx miles on it and we were having a severe drop in pressure after 5700 after installing lower pulley, cam and injectors (207kPa -> 130kPa). Removed pressure line for now and worked perfect. Ordering new valve and installing next week.

 

Bump...good info. I had to readjust mine after a pulley swap. Hoping it's part of what's causing low boost!

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Its good to check up on this once in a while as things have a way of moving over time if you're not using locktite on the screw. Especially if anyone has been working on your car. You guys need to remember though with the bypass valve system in place the boost will not hit as hard as it removed/plug. But it will keep your iat's cooler and keep your blower running longer

 

Great info. I pulled my snout yesterday to send it out for porting. This info will be helpful next week when it goes back together.

 

My tuner bypassed the overboost function. Could this still affect my boost?

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The actuator seems to be mounted in the right spot. Any way to tell if it needs to be replaced?

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Subbin' for future reference...

 

Yeah me too.

 

Will check mine later.

 

CTS-V Bypass Valve Adjustment:

Fasterproms showing how to properly mount

 

Just did this tonight. Very easy. Basically you want the bypass valve assembly pushed as far towards the engine as possible with the set screw barely making contact or 1-2mm of space between. My valve was actually slightly opened, meaning, the set screw was pressing slightly on the butterfly valve, not allowing it to shut completely. (I've had my supercharger replaced, so imagine it may have come adjusted slightly incorrectly from the factory). This takes all of 10 minutes, so I strongly encourage anyone who hasn't done it yet to do it!

 

This is fucking confusing as shit to me.

I took everything apart and installed an LPE hub and GripTec 2.45 upper. Put it all back together. So much conflicting info...

I thought with the rod PUSHING towards the engine, that made the blade seal? So that tells me push the bracket assembly TOWARDS the engine, not away from it.
The video I've seen says to push the bottom only towards the engine, and the top away. For me, that's pulling on the plate, opening it. On mine I have the top going away from the engine, and the bottom going TO the engine. In the "good" photo we can't see the bottom hole.

Some say to NOT let the set screw touch plate, others say to pre-load the motherfucker 1.5 to 2mm (1/4 3/4 turn after contact)

What is it? Performance Defined says one thing, Fasterproms another, and LPE another.

 

It varies. For me, the blade is closed and set screw is not touching the plate. I suppose I could let it touch the plate but not sure how much it matters. If you have someone operate the throttle with engine on, you can better understand how it works. It will vary based on where you have the bracket mounted. Here is what mine looks like. It's very hard to explain in text.

This video is exactly the method I followed

 

Thanks for that.
When I get off the rig I'll go on ahead and adjust it the way as shown then. It just seems to me the pre-load would be counter-intuitive if you're trying to keep it CLOSED.

 

Preload is ok as long as it's not pushing on the plate hard enough to cause the blade to be open. I'd error on the side of less preload versus too much. In fact, i"ll probably adjust mine to be a bit closer, but the problem with boost leak happens when the set screw is pushing so hard on the plate that it actually causes the blade to be open. There are many ways to compensate for this, for instance, as shown in the video, moving the entire assembly. Alternatively, you could adjust the set screw itself, but moving the entire assembly is easier. So, again, in conclusion, no preload or very slight preload just enough so that it touches or is very close to the plate, but not so much so that it's pushing on the plate and causing the blade to be open. It's much easier to understand when you are doing it. Hope this helps.

 

Alot of places set the screw to just touch the plate to keep the bypass from sticking. I opened up the bypass it just a rubber boot

 

Oh it does, trust me. I think I paid more attention to the arm itself as I was bolting it back on that anything, hence me being confused NOW when I read this. I just wanted to ensure that at the time that arm was pushing the blade CLOSED completely. I'm going to go ahead and adjust it when I get home though and do it the way you guys are showing.

 

checking mine tonight after noticing some boost leak

 

do you need the special tool for the rod ?