[randeez]

yep, fueling has definitely been the biggest pita building this thing. and it just wasnt consistent so i had to be ready to throw the scanner on it at all times.
in the interim, while i wait on parts, im probably going to take a look at external fuel filter media, i'll prob take the check valve apart off and make sure it looks like its working also maybe redo a few of the lines

 

[Pb82 Ronin]

Any chance for a completely new fuel system?

IMO, at this point if it were my car, I think the fuel system should be gutted and installed fresh, almost like a reset button. Make it your own, custom for your application. OEM tank yes, but AN fittings, huge pumps, lines, rails, etc. The whole nine. Otherwise, you may get tired of chasing your tail and lose a taste for the car. I would hate to see that happen as these are RAD cars.

 

[CTVTinoco]

Any chance for a completely new fuel system?

IMO, at this point if it were my car, I think the fuel system should be gutted and installed fresh, almost like a reset button. Make it your own, custom for your application. OEM tank yes, but AN fittings, huge pumps, lines, rails, etc. The whole nine. Otherwise, you may get tired of chasing your tail and lose a taste for the car. I would hate to see that happen as these are RAD cars.

A Fore triple fuel pump will future-proof any upgrades down the line for sure. I am running the DSX bucket system which hopefully is a check valve away from working OEM-like, but if not, I'll have to look into a Fore system.

 

[randeez]

not quite ready to throw in the towel yet...being an early adopter for some of these ways of doing things, i dont go in thinking itll be all problem free. i am a fan of the fpcm controlling everything, just need to find the correct way to do it.

for the fuel system, everything after the tank is already swapped out to 8an, external fuel filter, high flow di check valve, yblock to the port injection rails...and i have a bypass holder for the flex fuel sensor that i never installed(flex sensor is only on di fuel feed hose) . im going to clean some of it up with 1/2 stainless tubing while transmission is out.

 

[randeez]

supercharger sent out to kong for xport (and ordered 103mm)

been raining pretty much everyday, i have been working off of quick jacks and jack stands and it sucks. so... i sort of impulsively pulled the trigger and bought a 4post lift, 2post would have probably served me better but i dont have any where immediately cleared out to put a 2 post. i should be able to do like 90% of the work/maintenance/mods i need to do with it

 

[randeez]

8l90 is out

Big ol box from Kong arrived

Poking around cleaning up little odds and ends, I noticed a couple oil leaks and accompanying oil pan bolts that needed to be tightened up. Not sure if a bolts loosening up or sealant constricting and I need to plan on revealing the oil pan at some point in the near future. For now I tightened up a handful or bolts, may need to change out drip stick oring also.

RMS looks good

Wasn't really thrilled with the 8an flexible hose that ran up behind the supercharger, close to headers, had heat sleeve on it but mwh. I started messing with it today while I was waiting for transmission jack to show up. Which i really should've waited for, I bent it following the evap line off the car and it wasn't too far off. But then I tried to nudge it here and there to get it to fit nicer and snaking it around the transmission just ended up pissing me off. Sooo transmissions out and I ordered some more stainless tubing to give it another go

 

[randeez]

got the stainless tube bent up to make new fuel line. so it comes off the tank (still oem part cause its pretty goofy and has the fuel pressure sensor on it. lingenfelter direct injected check valve, aeromotive 8an filter, more stainless to up behind the supercharger, short piece of flexible hose to allow some movement then spiders out to each rail port rail, flex sensor on the di hose to the high pressure pump. i hadnt had the line completely secured, but it all tucks up under the underbody panels when theyre installed. and without the transmission on the engine it tilted way up. theres another heatsheild that goes above the exhaust/header. i'll run out and take some pics

 

[randeez]

 

[randeez]

couple of "i heard it works but wasnt sure" till i did it myself -
-10l90 transmission fits right in place, even used the 10sp crossmember bolts right into the 8sp mounting holes.
-10l90 converter bolts to the 8l90 flex plate...not sure if clearance was supposed to be typical 1/8" but it wasnt any more than that. both transmissions measured the same from the converter pads to the bell housing, the 10l90 converter uses shorter converter bolts - this wasnt something i knew, but they were included with the PSS transmission swap kit.
-driveshaft can be re used (i will likely go with a 1 piece aluminum, but for now just making sure everything works before i spend more money on non essential things)
- transmission cooler lines for the 8l90; bolt up to the 10l90 but need a little tweaking just to kick them off the trans tunnel and make usable.

 

[randeez]

while i had some help over the weekend, we unboxed the supercharger, cleaned up the intercooler bricks and replaced the orings on them. i ordered the full seal kit for the sc. all of mine were still in great shape, still springy, not compressed but replaced them anyway. hardware too short cause of port plates so i had to reuse what i had. got it back on the engine torqued in sequence along with the cover.
the cowl is still off i need to remake a hose to the evap purge that connects behind the sc and run some wiring down to the 10l90. currently conflicted about cleaning up the wiring harness or not the PSS kits just assumes youre going to leave the entire harness and plug ran in the car i guess? i already have additional wiring for all the atlas dual widebands thats ran along side everything going down passenger side of engine to transmission plug - it all has to sit up where the coils/injectors are so less wiring the better. and no more post cat o2s. sooo not sure if i feel like cutting open the harness removing what i dont need adding what i do and cleaning it all up. have to button up under the hood, prob throw on a new belt on.

 

[randeez]

more stuff to fix or upgrade
fluid filled control arm bushings... awesome
i think the drivers side is bad. oem only looks to be about 100bux. splparts makes a set with sphericals but at like 800$ may have to wait.

 

[randeez]

over the last couple days, got a little more put back together, ran the harness for the 10speed controller...i mounted it in place of the 8speed harness and ty-rapped it to it(that also has passenger side pre/post o2 sensors) after all is confirmed working i will depin it, and reloom everything together neatly again. its going to bug me just having it ran beside all bulky n shit in the mean time. but if something catastrophic happens... i dont want to have already removed all the wiring.

i opt'd to try a throttle body gasket to the snout instead of rtv - BTR 102mm/103mm

remade the evap purge line i had changed over to -6AN and threw it back in

put the cowl all back together, one of the strut tower to firewall braces was barely hitting a fitting on the port fuel rail so i gave it a couple tappy taps for clearance

need to finish installing catch can, i put the plug in under the supercharger while it was off, just need to mount can and run some hoses.

ordered some more larger heat sleeving for the wiring to trans plug and a fresh 8rib belt, looks like they got delivered today so i can finish putting intake and stuff on, can do the belt with it in the way but wasnt like i was going to start it anyway.

i need to pull the wheel/liner to get to the tcm to make the connections and change the tcm, pin a wire into the ecm, not sure what state the tcm is in i think it just has a stock tune on it. so will probably pull tune from ecm/tcm/fpcm all together so theyll be combined. but should be good enough to start up.

the control arm i am probably going to wait, i dont want to have to immediately bring it to get aligned before getting the 10l90 setup/dialed in. may just have friends shop do it since itll need to be aligned after anyway.