Did you unhook the battery when you were changing the MAF and wiring?

Sounds like you are having problems with the GM LAN that the ODBII port uses to communicate with the various modules in the car.
I would start by checking the underhood fuse box for popped fusese or damage.
I would also recommend to reseat the top half of the fuse box from the bottom half and check for burnt / damaged / bent pins.

 

Did you unhook the battery when you were changing the MAF and wiring?

Sounds like you are having problems with the GM LAN that the ODBII port uses to communicate with the various modules in the car.
I would start by checking the underhood fuse box for popped fusese or damage.
I would also recommend to reseat the top half of the fuse box from the bottom half and check for burnt / damaged / bent pins.

There was no burn in the fuelbox. Everything looking good. I ordered a new ECM to se if that is the problem.

Take another look at the splice for the MAF sensor cables, assuming you used the same sensor as OEM. If the ECM is not finding what it looks for, or has trouble getting the data, or doesn’t like what it looks like, like a poor ground connection, it will keep the bus very busy, and perhaps fool the mixture controls. The MAF sensor is direct to the ECM, very fast updates, not on the CAN bus, but if it reads garbage, but only slight garbage, it may not decide to stop reading MAF.

I use a different MAF sensor for a camaro with same engine. I just change the pin on the contact to the right place for the new sensor

 

I think i did disconect thre battery but not 100% sure. Car did work like normal after i changed the maf sensor. First time i changed the MAF sensor i did not changed the cables to it so that one did start to not messure the air intake temp so i changed that to a new one and changed the cables.

I have checked the fueses before but i can check them one more time.

If i connect the scantool to the obd2 port i did get the lost connumication codes but i could read the codes so the obd2 port sems to work.

"reseat the top half of the fuse box from the bottom half".. Is that to remove the fuses and put them back again?

And when i check with the code reader a later time it did show
"Lost communication with steering angle sensor module"
"Lost communication with multi-axis acceleration sensor module"
"C08899-03 Device 1 voltage Low"

 

"reseat the top half of the fuse box from the bottom half".. Is that to remove the fuses and put them back again?

NO - when you pull the fusebox cover you will see two phillips head screws. Loosen those, then look at the sides of the fusebox for tabs holding it together, gently pry those apart and lift the top off.
Inspect for or burned connections.
Reinstall by aligning the top portion back on the bottom, snap it back on and then tighten the screws.

 

If you have logging, you should also have the ability to clear all the codes. Clear 'em, then shut off and restart the motor and see if it runs different.

The loss of communication errors are not unusual when you have something plugged in to the OBD port. The signal connection is shared by all the computers in the car, it doesn't have a lot of margin for any added external loads. It may just be that the communication problem set some other fault condition that's permanent.

I bought a C5 Corvette in 98, and one day while driving it, I went over some railroad tracks and the dash lit up with every warning lamp. Car went in to limp mode and barely ran. Trying to restart it didn't help. But in their infinite wisdom, GM made the DIC on the C5 Corvette switchable in to diagnostic mode via the front panel pushbuttons, where it reads out all the codes and lets you clear them. I put the DIC in diagnostic mode and cleared out all the codes, then restarted the car and it drove just fine for the next 4 years, until I traded it in on a 02Z06.

 

I think I got one or two of those when I fired the car up after changing the engine. Cleared them out and haven't seen them since. I figured it was from the wideband piggyback port adapter doing odd things.

 

Take another look at the splice for the MAF sensor cables, assuming you used the same sensor as OEM. If the ECM is not finding what it looks for, or has trouble getting the data, or doesn’t like what it looks like, like a poor ground connection, it will keep the bus very busy, and perhaps fool the mixture controls. The MAF sensor is direct to the ECM, very fast updates, not on the CAN bus, but if it reads garbage, but only slight garbage, it may not decide to stop reading MAF.

 

Changed out the ecu, still the same problem. Any one know where the PCM is located if that is a box or what it is? Car is like slow reving and dont go over 20 mph. Cleaned the ground points, was not that that was the problem. Is it just me that have had this problem :/

 

Car is like slow reving and dont go over 20 mph.

Is it true that the car will literally not exceed 20MPH?
If it's in neutral, will the engine freely rev to 5000rpm?
Does it just bog at 3000 in neutral?
If so, lets look at the basics, is the exhaust restricted somehow? is the engine rapidly overheating> are the headers/manifold and the turbos glowing red?
What's the EGT? What's the AFR reading? Are the turbos spinning up?
Tell me you don't still have cats, right?
I mean, it is usually true that the newest issues are related to the latest repair... but, NOT ALWAYS

 

Can you clear the codes and start again? Will they NOT go away?

 

Sounds like the body control module is cooked. That is the computer under the dash on the right side of the steering column. Make sure you know what fried the Body Control Module before you replace it. You will need an account of the GM site to reprogram the new BCM. I say this due to a Chevy SS we had that had the steering rack damaged from driving over something. It broke the computer on the rack and that took out the Body Control Module. Replaced the rack and still had the problem. Before we replaced the rack we bought a new BCM and it instantly blew. Replaced the rack and then a new BCM and reprogrammed it and all is well now. Again, see if there is something corrupting the CAN Bus and replace it first. Then, if that does not solve the problem you will be replacing the BCM. Takes about an hour to download the specific software for your car and you will need an adapter for the OBDII port to your computer. I miss points and carburetors. Used to be a UNIX Systems Administrator so that helps with these new computerized cars.

 

Lost communication with 3 out of 4 wheel speed sensors, parking brake module accumulator module 2013 Cadillac CTS 3.0
Question: does each module have integrated resistor? And if a resistor does give up do you lose one device or 5 like I have ?

 

Hey can you give me a call my 2009 CTS-V saying the same thing 870-270-9688 & can u please send me a text message I have some questions

 

Did you figure it out? Mine is doing the same thing.

 

No I have not cleared the codes yet. Ive made some head way with things like Changing the mas air flow sensor and all 4 O2 sensor's. I was going to go after the seal between the master cylinder and the booster, that should address the brake assistance issue. I am also changing wheel speed sensor, as soon as they arrive. And it's silly but the 3 wheels with no single are the 3 hubs that I changed myself. I am currently replacing front rotors calipers pads and sensor. Be careful ordering parts. Look on the underside of the spare tire cover and look for the J code if it's J55 their HD brakes JE5 and their smaller rotors 315mm the HD rotors are 335mm and the pads and calipers are not interchangable. I also have a temperature sensor going bad, if the ECMtaru doesn't read the temp, default mode automatically assumes the engine if hot and kicks on both fans. Which if not carful will run the battary! And that starts a whole new set of problems!

 

Car is working now. Did put an older version of the tune and the stock maf sensor and car runs normal again. Did not have to buy BCM.