A blown fuse is not going to lock up a pump. A locked up pump could blow a fuse.


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A blown fuse is not going to lock up a pump. A locked up pump could blow a fuse.

Ok good to know… I only said that because the pump did not work after changing the fuse. Brought a brand new pump and it came on no problem. 2 days later the brand new pump is out and keep blowing the fuses.

 

The scenario was likely the following: 1, pump motor bearings went bad, caused a drag on the motor, motor overheated, pulled high current (but not enough to blow the fuse) for a while and severely melted the wiring.
2. Eventually the motor locked up due to bearing failure; at this point the amps became extreme enough to blow the fuse.
3. Fuse replaced... cooled motor runs for a short time but of course, later locks up, cooks the wires some more, then blows the fuse.
4. Fuse replaced (likely with higher-rated fuse) and cycle repeats: heat/cook wires/lockup/blow fuse.
5. pump motor gets replaced; wires not addressed
6. pump is getting low voltage due to roasted wires/ bad connections/melted relay contacts/ corroded connections
7. toasted wires and relay overheat again, blowing fuse.

guess what step 8 is .

 

Install a new cam and ported heads?


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Make sure the pump connector doesn’t have any corrosion or loose terminals. If you can manage to keep the fuse from blowing, try doing a voltage drop test from the fuse to the positive terminal on the pump, you’ll need t-pins to keep the circuit closed. There should be little to no voltage. Make sure it has a good ground by measuring the negative terminal on the pump connector to the negative battery terminal, there should be roughly 0.1ohms. Worse case scenario there could be an exposed wire that shorts out during a certain situation like a bad bump or up a steep hill.

 

dumb question but are you sure the fuse is blown this time and its not just air locked

 

Yessir I’m sure it actually blew a couple trying to troubleshoot. I’ve checked grounds, tried to make sure it wasn’t pinching. But When I turned the key to see if the pump was on it wasn’t so I turned it off pulled the fuse and it’ll be blown.

What is they current draw of the Bosch pump?
What was the current rating of the OE pump?
If it is an “upgrade” (meaning that it performs at a higher level than the original) then it likely draws more current. The OE wiring and fuse will have been sized for the OE selected pump.
This is likely the reason for the trouble your are having.
The good news is that a fairly simple fix will be to add a relay located near the pump location and use the original pump circuit to simply trigger the relay, That way the original circuit is not overloaded.

The ZZP (as far as I have found in a quick search) may pull around five amps. That shouldn’t be the issue but none the less, fuses are blowing. It’s pretty simple at this point, you’re going to have to inspect the wiring until you locate the short or the damage.
You did say that the engine was recently pulled, right? Lots of opportunity for wires to get molested. Someone will need to physically examine the wiring. Can’t see it from
the internet.

Yes that’s what I figured only checked what I was able to reach I’ll do some more digging to see what I find thanks a lot!

 

What is they current draw of the Bosch pump?
What was the current rating of the OE pump?
If it is an “upgrade” (meaning that it performs at a higher level than the original) then it likely draws more current. The OE wiring and fuse will have been sized for the OE selected pump.
This is likely the reason for the trouble your are having.
The good news is that a fairly simple fix will be to add a relay located near the pump location and use the original pump circuit to simply trigger the relay, That way the original circuit is not overloaded.

The ZZP (as far as I have found in a quick search) may pull around five amps. That shouldn’t be the issue but none the less, fuses are blowing. It’s pretty simple at this point, you’re going to have to inspect the wiring until you locate the short or the damage.
You did say that the engine was recently pulled, right? Lots of opportunity for wires to get molested. Someone will need to physically examine the wiring. Can’t see it from
the internet.

 

Unplug the pump, replace the fuse. Then, start car and see if the fuse blows. If it does you isolated it to a short in the wiring and not the upgraded pump. Make Sure your fuse box is seated properly.

 

You could run jumper wires from the fuse box that have a positive and negative lead into the pump. Make sure you have a fuse inline the same as the stock fuse. Then jump the pump and see if it runs. That way you could eliminate a melted or grounded wire. If it runs that way and doesn't blow a fuse you need to run new wiring to the pump. If the wires have gotten hot due to excessive current draw and melted the insulation it may not be a dead short to pop a fuse with no load. I've seen that back in my car audio days where a wire isn't dead shorted but the insulation is melted enough for the wires to arc under load.

 

PGA2B has it right. If that is the case wire around the problem. I had a new Mustang that the dealer wired around the temperature gauge to get it to work. Somewhere in the harness it was shorted so the gauge read hot nut not overly hot. Wiring around the problem resolved the situation. Since the fuse box is so close it should be easy to resolve.