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Probably a shot in the dark, but does anyone know what to remove on a VAGON to get at those top few bolts please?
I don't feel like removing a bunch of stuff that doesn't need to be removed to get at it!
 
Good write up!

Its not to bad. I did mine and the springs and I'm not a wrencher. You just need a bit of room to jack the car up enough.
 
best deal I found online was $471.67 shipped from Rockauto.com for both rears shocks including the 5% off coupon.....let me know if anyone knows of anything cheaper out there, seems like a pretty low price from what ive seen
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
that's what I went with, they arrived today - delivered in -3 days....not bad...
OH yeah, and that is AC Delco ...not aftermarket
I got mine for about $360 but ordered direct from someone who had access to discounts.

Good luck with the install! It is pretty damn easy.
 
Great write up! Made this job simple. Got my rear struts from Rockauto. Took me longer to install the Creative Steel Shifter
 
If it weren't for this great post/tutorial I would have never changed out my rear shocks myself. Actual swap took about an hour, the longest thing that took time for me was trying to decide on where to place the floor jack and removing the nut furthest away, not a lot off room to play with. Other than that easy peasy! Thank you!
 
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Just replaced rears after discovering they were weeping and also intermittently giving out after sitting overnight or when the temps were very cold. Pretty much solved why the rear was ocasionally floating around during apexes. Shocks had 7yrs with 41k on Eibachs.
 
when the front end makes noise people say hit the top bolts with an impact gun, but these instructions say 18 ft lbs
I realize this is for the rear what is the suggested torque setting for the fronts?
 
Just did this yesterday (Thank you Scream for the great instructions. However, on my test drive today, it was BOUNCY. Yes, I connected the sensor to the top. I do have lowering springs, but it's REALLY bouncy. Anybody experience this after replacing? I am wondering if the computer needs a reset, or if it needs to adjust, or I just need them to settle. Or maybe I've been riding around on REALLY bad struts and I am just not used to what good ones feel like. :) Thanks,
 
I am surprised this hasn't been posted before. It is one of the most common things v2s need and one of the easiest things to do. I would say start to finish is about 1 hour if you go slowly.

If your rear shocks are leaking, making a thud over large bumps, or sagging and dropping over bumps, replace them NOW. I had all of these issues and traction problems. My rear end would want to kick out left or right. Now she drives straight as an arrow and I can actually lay down some power.

Part numbers:
Driver rear - 19302784
Passenger rear - 19302785

I ordered from Jason Guzik at www.newautoparts.com. Great pricing, keeps them in stock, and ships FAST.

I documented replacing the driver rear shock, but I did replace both. The same process goes for the passenger side. I added pictures, but honestly, you don't need them it is that simple.

Tools needs:
-jack
-jack stands
-tire iron
-1/2 drive
-13/16 1/2 socket
-15mm 1/2 socket
-3/8 drive
-10mm 3/8 socket
-13mm 3/8 socket
-needle nose pliers

1. Break loose lug nuts with tire iron.

2. Jack the rear end up and put it on jack stands.

3. Remove wheel.

4. Open trunk and unbolt the 4 10mm nuts securing the upper portion of the rear seat.

Image


5. Open rear doors and remove lower portion of the rear seat.

It is snapped in place by two clips, one in front of each seat. Gently pull up and it will unclip and you can pull it out and set it aside.

Image


6. Unbolt the 4 15mm nuts holding the bottom of the upper portion of the rear seat in place. Then remove the driver side and passenger side seat belt straps from their guides on the upper portion of the rear seat and pull the upper portion forward. I left it in place, but you could wiggle it out if you needed. There will be more than enough room with it leaning forward.

Image


7. Now remove the trunk trim. It is held on by a few plastic snaps and the trunk net mount in the trunk and 2 wide plastic snaps you have to access from the back seat area. You may have to wiggle the trunk latch trim a bit loose to remove the sides of the trunk trim.

Image


Image


8. Place a jack underneath the brake rotor to hold the shock in place.

Image


9. Remove the metal retainer clip that is holding the mag ride sensor plug in place with needle nose pliers. Be very careful NOT to lose this. Carefully tuck the sensor plug out of the way. You can also push it in and remove the connector. I've always preferred to remove the retainer clip and place it aside since they always come off the connectors when I'm doing work.

Image


10. Unbolt the top 3 13mm nuts holding the rear shock in place.

Image


11. Unbolt the 13/16s bolt holding the lower portion of the shock in place. Make sure you remove the BOLT, not the NUT. The NUT is welded in place. The bolt will be towards the front of the car.

Image


12. Lower the jack and slide the rear shock out.

Image


13. Slide the new shock in and jack the rotor up so the shock is in place. I started the lower bolt to steady the shock.

14. Tighten the 3 upper nuts and torque them to 18 ft lbs.

15. Tighten the lower bolt and torque to 111 ft lbs.

16. Put the mag ride sensor back on with the metal retainer clip.

17. Replace the trunk trim.

18. If replacing the other shock, repeat the same steps for the other side.

19. Once done with both shocks and trim in place, put the wheels back on and snug fit the lug nuts.

20. Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 140 ft lbs.

21. Enjoy how your car SHOULD ride had you not procrastinated purchasing new shocks.
Just did the rear shocks on a 2012 V. Some observations: My son did most of the work as I'm just shy of 80 and need some help. 1. The Coupe rear seat top come out with just a pull on the finger loops on either side, giving full access to the trunk, 2. The connecter pin/retainer clip on mine CANNOT be reasonably removed from an installed shock as the ends turn down 90 degrees at the back-carefully disconnect the electrical plug and do the rest when the shock is out. The trunk liner just pulls back when you pop out the plastic clips facing front (easily seen and done with the seat back pulled down). Forget all the other stuff about the liner and the trunk trim. The lower mount bolt did not just pull out and had to be turned out for the whole length of the bolt. Hope this helps as a proper rear suspension is a delight.
 
I am surprised this hasn't been posted before. It is one of the most common things v2s need and one of the easiest things to do. I would say start to finish is about 1 hour if you go slowly.

If your rear shocks are leaking, making a thud over large bumps, or sagging and dropping over bumps, replace them NOW. I had all of these issues and traction problems. My rear end would want to kick out left or right. Now she drives straight as an arrow and I can actually lay down some power.

Part numbers:
Driver rear - 19302784
Passenger rear - 19302785

I ordered from Jason Guzik at www.newautoparts.com. Great pricing, keeps them in stock, and ships FAST.

I documented replacing the driver rear shock, but I did replace both. The same process goes for the passenger side. I added pictures, but honestly, you don't need them it is that simple.

Tools needs:
-jack
-jack stands
-tire iron
-1/2 drive
-13/16 1/2 socket
-15mm 1/2 socket
-3/8 drive
-10mm 3/8 socket
-13mm 3/8 socket
-needle nose pliers

1. Break loose lug nuts with tire iron.

2. Jack the rear end up and put it on jack stands.

3. Remove wheel.

4. Open trunk and unbolt the 4 10mm nuts securing the upper portion of the rear seat.

Image


5. Open rear doors and remove lower portion of the rear seat.

It is snapped in place by two clips, one in front of each seat. Gently pull up and it will unclip and you can pull it out and set it aside.

Image


6. Unbolt the 4 15mm nuts holding the bottom of the upper portion of the rear seat in place. Then remove the driver side and passenger side seat belt straps from their guides on the upper portion of the rear seat and pull the upper portion forward. I left it in place, but you could wiggle it out if you needed. There will be more than enough room with it leaning forward.

Image


7. Now remove the trunk trim. It is held on by a few plastic snaps and the trunk net mount in the trunk and 2 wide plastic snaps you have to access from the back seat area. You may have to wiggle the trunk latch trim a bit loose to remove the sides of the trunk trim.

Image


Image


8. Place a jack underneath the brake rotor to hold the shock in place.

Image


9. Remove the metal retainer clip that is holding the mag ride sensor plug in place with needle nose pliers. Be very careful NOT to lose this. Carefully tuck the sensor plug out of the way. You can also push it in and remove the connector. I've always preferred to remove the retainer clip and place it aside since they always come off the connectors when I'm doing work.

Image


10. Unbolt the top 3 13mm nuts holding the rear shock in place.

Image


11. Unbolt the 13/16s bolt holding the lower portion of the shock in place. Make sure you remove the BOLT, not the NUT. The NUT is welded in place. The bolt will be towards the front of the car.

Image


12. Lower the jack and slide the rear shock out.

Image


13. Slide the new shock in and jack the rotor up so the shock is in place. I started the lower bolt to steady the shock.

14. Tighten the 3 upper nuts and torque them to 18 ft lbs.

15. Tighten the lower bolt and torque to 111 ft lbs.

16. Put the mag ride sensor back on with the metal retainer clip.

17. Replace the trunk trim.

18. If replacing the other shock, repeat the same steps for the other side.

19. Once done with both shocks and trim in place, put the wheels back on and snug fit the lug nuts.

20. Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 140 ft lbs.

21. Enjoy how your car SHOULD ride had you not procrastinated purchasing new shocks.
Where do I find replacment clips in section 8.my clip broke while replacing my front shocks today....I can not find them anywhere with online search

Where do I find replacment clips in section 8.my clip broke while replacing my front shocks today....I can not find them anywhere with online search
Section 9 not 8
 
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