[dever]

I had a similar issue with charging in hot conditions. The resistance on the charge wire from the alternator was getting high when hot. It doesn't help that the fusible link sits right under the drivers side headers. The wire continues to wrap around above the transmission bell housing, then back towards the passenger side header for another blast of heat before it goes to the + battery post by the fuse box. It got cooked, & would intermittently work, but once heated up, it would start to fail.

So I ran a new 2ga wire with a resetable breaker, away from the heat of the headers. Wrapped it in 2600F wire weave loom.

Problem was solved.

The battery current sensor is on the negative wire in the trunk, roughly 1 foot out from the battery post. Its plastic housing loops around the cable & has 3 wires. You can test it for a specific resistance with a multimeter. Though I don't recall the readings you need to verify a functional sensor.

I'll post a pic when I get back to the car.

Does your battery still maintain above 12.4v when everything I the car is on, AC full blast defroster on, high beams, seat fans etc?

Voltage is not always a good indicator of the batteries ability to handle current load.



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[dever]

Sounds good man. Keep an eye on your voltage in the heat.

Mine was intermittent too. Coincidentally my alternator was over charging the system at the same time as the not charging problem. Turned out to be a bad rectifier in the alt. I did both repairs really close together, due to finding the crispy charge wire in close proximity to the headers.



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[dever]

Here's a pic of my rerouted alternator charge cable I did. It's a 4ga fine strand wire, not 2ga as stated before.

It's routed near the top of the radiator under that plastic cover that says "GM Performance Division", then over to the fuse box + post.

Has yours acted up since?

Mine was intermittent for about 3 months before I traced it down to the cooked charge cable.

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