[BaggedLB7]

Can you guys tell me if I should start my first mod with a ZL1 lid?
Hahaha jkjk.
Seriously though a sales man from a reputable shop told me this and I was wondering if it's true.
Yes I search and read countless post on weather the guy should install one but I could not really find any info related to what this salesman is saying. I did find one mention of the rear cylinders being starved but it was brushed off as bs basically.
I'm doing my first round of mods and I've got a list of stuff that includes a ZL1 lid.
This is his reply to it.
For the supercharger lid, we highly suggest sticking with the OEM V lid and adding the C&R racing intercooler brick. The V lid has more volume than the ZL1 lid and does not starve the rear cylinders.

Can anyone shed some light on weather this is true and what people have been seeing ?

 

[Karch]

You don’t need to change out the lid, but he is mistaken. ZL1 lid is worth about 15 hp gain on a 550-600 rwhp setup.

If you can get one for under $400, sure. But if it’s going to cost you $800+ to change, you are better off spending that elsewhere, or saving it, but it really depends on your own budget and goals.


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[db-guru]

I have a ZL1 lid and I like the way it looks. I also have an aftermarket hood so the lid isn't milled. At today's prices, I would buy the pieces to reinforce the brick and have a friend weld it up.

 

[BaggedLB7]

So are the gains coming from the design of the lid itself or the different cooler inside of it?
Has anyone tried just an upgraded cooler in the v lid and dynoed it?
Or is the sales man just trying to sell me a 1,200 dollar cooler?
Damn I wish I had my car when parts were somewhat cheap. Lol

 

[Karch]

So are the gains coming from the design of the lid itself or the different cooler inside of it?
Has anyone tried just an upgraded cooler in the v lid and dynoed it?
Or is the sales man just trying to sell me a 1,200 dollar cooler?
Damn I wish I had my car when parts were somewhat cheap. Lol

Would you have then complained about spending $50-$70k for the car itself?


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[BaggedLB7]

Considering I paid almost 50 for it 8 years after it was built I would say no no I wouldn't. 😥

 

[Florida-Vee]

Can you guys tell me if I should start my first mod with a ZL1 lid?
Hahaha jkjk.
Seriously though a sales man from a reputable shop told me this and I was wondering if it's true.
Yes I search and read countless post on weather the guy should install one but I could not really find any info related to what this salesman is saying. I did find one mention of the rear cylinders being starved but it was brushed off as bs basically.
I'm doing my first round of mods and I've got a list of stuff that includes a ZL1 lid.
This is his reply to it.
For the supercharger lid, we highly suggest sticking with the OEM V lid and adding the C&R racing intercooler brick. The V lid has more volume than the ZL1 lid and does not starve the rear cylinders.

Can anyone shed some light on weather this is true and what people have been seeing ?

So.... Having been playing the "buy parts then see newer, better parts developed after" game for a bit now.. There are lids that are offered out there that address the back two cylinders and advertise better flow characteristics, that put the lines in the front (if that's what you are looking for), but the kicker is they use the CTSV brick.. So if you are like me and have done tons of mods, but thought about swapping lids as one last plus up to do, but you can't because you have to buy the brick also, or go after market brick which is $$$$$ so I'm stuck unless I drop 2k+.. So I'd say re-enforce your current brick, do other mods that you are thinking about, and this will give you time to look at all the options out there. Guys have made 700+hp on the stock lid..
God luck
Jeff

 

[mememe123]

You can always get a lid+brick spacer, as well as reinforced brick, obviously. That should save you a decent amount of $$, and the results should be similar to ZL1 lid.

 

[MrSurly]

HP/dollar there's not much that can beat a good set of long tube headers, with the limited exception of an upper pulley.... but you NEED the headers for all the other mods to really work.

1.For protection purposes, reinforce the stock brick
2. upper pulley
3. headers
4. tune

That's a good starting point.
follow up with HX, CAI, injectors and fuel pumps as you can

Also: Welcome to the modness!

 

[RocketSled]

So are the gains coming from the design of the lid itself or the different cooler inside of it?

I have often wondered about this. Why is a higher capacity lid adding more HP? The supercharger is still pumping the same volume of air and the engine is still consuming the same volume of air, the lid is just a reservoir. I think it has to come down to pumping losses. The larger capacity lid has lower pumping losses, so it achieves a slightly higher intake manifold pressure under the same operating conditions as a smaller lid. It probably also delivers a higher initial level of boost when there's a transient increase in load, since there's more air for the engine to "draw down" before the supercharger has had a chance to catch up. Might also result in slightly lower charge air temps.

Be interested if anyone actually knows the reason.

 

[Karch]

The reason the ZL one lid has shown a modest increase Hass to do with a more efficient brick plus more room to make the short turn 180° into the cylinder heads.


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[RocketSled]

So basically down to improved flow, not capacity (though of course they're interrelated).

 

[Karch]

I believe I and many others picked up 0.5 psi of boost, no other changes.


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[BaggedLB7]

So my list of what I want to do.
2" long tubes into 3" with high flow catted xpipe into factory mufflers. Already sitting in my garage.
Haven't pulled the trigger on the rest.
Cold air
2.4 upper with 100mm idler
Solid isolator
Ported throttle body
Fic 1000cc
Zl1 lid
Aftermarket hx
Pierburg pump
Plugs
Thermostat

Really was just wondering about what I was told about the lid.
I haven't heard anything bad about them and when I searched I didn't come up with much besides the typical should I do it threads and most were all old.

 

[mememe123]

You already got answers on the lid. Zl1 and or spacer allows for better airflow to the rear 2 cylinders, and better brick on ZL1+more intake volume.
Your guys just got it backwards, that's all.. Could've been a long day, and brain was tired.
I would go with ID1050x over FIC, and you'll need an HX+recovery tank or meth with 2.4 upper come summer time, most likely. Add reinforced brick to that as well.

It would be easier to do the pump + brick and HX + remove the hard lines at the same time.

 

[Rekkr]

Agree with ID over fic

 

[kittyboy]

Agree with ID over fic

I agree ID, have had really good customer experience, the data provided is accurate and makes the characterization process very simple. I'm running ID1050x with no complaints in the 800hp zone on 92/toluene.

 

[kittyboy]

Elon Musk's response to Jay Leno regarding bullet proof glass on the e-truck, "It's bad ass." Similar to my response regarding the ZL1 lid in comparison to the stock V lid.

ZL1 lid may only be a nominal performance improvement, but ascetically "bad ass" in comparison. It's not lipstick on a pig, it's lipstick on a model, there's a difference.

 

[5ft24]

You guys should go to the people that specialize in LSA supercharger kits to get better I fo than what I am seeing here. The ZL1 lid does run less air to the rear cylinders UNLESS you add a spacer. Go ask any of these guys. Lance Draeger, Jesse Olson, Roshan GTO etc.

 

[Grneyedqban]

So are the gains coming from the design of the lid itself or the different cooler inside of it?
Has anyone tried just an upgraded cooler in the v lid and dynoed it?
Or is the sales man just trying to sell me a 1,200 dollar cooler?
Damn I wish I had my car when parts were somewhat cheap. Lol

The upgraded brick is only your core brick and $350! Now you got a brick that can handle up to 1000hp from Lingenfelter