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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Curious to know who’s out there to do the required milling on a ZL1 lid to clear the hood? I saw there was a member who was doing it think his name was irishc6 or something. Seems like he’s no longer active on here though. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I could do it for you but it looks like you're on the other side of the country? (I'm in the SF Bay Area) Probably cheaper and easier to just take it to a local machine shop.
Thanks for the offer, was hoping there was someone around that’s done it before. I’m kind of leery of bringing it to a random shop seeing they aren’t so easy to replace these days. I’m probably over thinking it but I’ll look around
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Orrr, find yourself a nice milling machine for your shop, they double as a sick drill press!
Lol, those things are huge, we had as a family a few of them. My late father in law was a machinist for over 35 yrs, we had to clean out the shop. Bridgeport’s, (3) 4 huge lathes, pantograph machines etc. was an enormous undertaking to move that stuff!
 

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I actually have a Dayton milling machine that's not that big, compared to an industrial drill press anyways. It's bench mount. It was govt surplus, and when we went to pick it up they dropped it off the forklift. Messed up the tin a little, and broke the handles for the table. So, until I can get some parts, it's just a bad ass drill press lol.
 

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DMS will modify your lid, they do a great job and mill the bosses down as well as the edge by the water manifold, makes for a cleaner look
 

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the whole DMS water manifold is better, and I think what they do is assemble the manifold to the lid and then mill it, so they take the bosses down and that sharp edge along the water manifold
If my 14 didnt have a ported snout and stuff I was just going to take the whole SC off my 11, the SC only had 2-3k miles on it and the lid less than 1000. I did at least change the lines and fittings, I hated the ones the car came with and they were able to be straight instead of COCKED






 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks great! Was planning on doing their billet manifold with the 12an orb fittings. I already have 12an push lock fittings I bought for the v lid which I’ll probably re use. Just got a bmr under hood tank and varimax pump. Once I get the lid modified I plan on doing the whole install. Just need to figure out what to do for lines. Any recommendations?
 

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Here is my set up, tried to take the shortest route,
Routing is tank > pump > HX drivers side (I set the pump outlet at the top pointing to the drivers side) out of HX to bottom of brick, out the top of the brick and back to the tank. (Using a Varimax pump) I was going to add the heat wrap on the hose running next to headers but haven’t gotten to it




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Here is my bay with the DMS setup
What direction is your flow? looks like you should switch the brick connections to have the return on the top, will help get any air out.


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What direction is your flow? looks like you should switch the brick connections to have the return on the top, will help get any air out.


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it's flow is based on DMS recommendations. the routing of the lines might be misleading. the goal was to get the liquid to its desired destination sooner than later. cool it faster, so to speak.
 
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