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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm sitting here looking at the bose wire diagram for the factory amp, and i'm trying to determine which wires to tap my line output converter into for my aftermarket amp.

The diagram is on the other forum here: BOSE FACTORY WIRING DIAGRAM CTS-V

If you look at Connector X4, it looks like there is a subwoofer low level audio signal + and -. Would these work? My LOC has 4 wires, left speaker + and - and right speaker + and -. I remember something about the subwoofer wires not sending a signal, and just sending power, as the sub in the deck is powered seperately? Anyways, just want to see which wires i need to tap this into before I go tearing apart my trunk.

Thanks!
 

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I used the sub connector. It has power ground pos and neg. I ran the pos and neg into my input on my JL amp and it works great for just a sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used the sub connector. It has power ground pos and neg. I ran the pos and neg into my input on my JL amp and it works great for just a sub.
dbish - tell me more. Where can i find this connector in the trunk? is the positive good for a remote, ie remote on for the amp? Can't you just use the battery for the amp + and ground?
 

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the only good remote line I found for my amp and single sub is from the rear view mirror... I ran it all the way back to the trunk. I used the sub connector for my LOC. Sorry I don't remember the colors.
 

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Hey guys. Where is the factory subwoofer plug? All I can see from the trunk is the subwoofer itself but there is no plug at all, just the base of the subwoofer....also I think the noise worrying diagram I have is for an older V2, pins that it says are not in use have wires in them, and they're taped together in pairs, the 2 subwoofer wires weren't taped together....

sent from my Galaxy S4
 

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Sub wire plugs in from the top of the oem sub. You need to remove the rear seat then the rear deck, Then you will clearly see the plug. As I mentioned, I removed my oem sub so access was really easy. If you need me to, I can look up the color codes for the sub connector on a 2011.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found the wires in the trunk.I probably will take out the factory subwoofer soon, but I'm going to button this up and see how it sounds for now.


White and blue & green and black

sent from my Galaxy S4
 

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Alright, buttoned all back up and sounds amazing with the stock subwoofer in. if the rear window tray starts rattling, i'll go in and take it out. The wires i tapped into for the line output converter were Pin 6 and 7 on the X1 connector, closest to the rear of the car on the factory bose amp. Tapped them into the left speaker + and - of the line output converter. I left the right speaker wires disconnected, as well as ground.

So for anyone that is hunting for this information:

Power to battery terminal
Ground to rear passenger side nut for shock assembly
Remote turn on in fuse box above battery in trunk, pry white plastic top off, and tap into the green wire
For Line output converter tap into factory bose amp, X1 connector (closest to rear of car) and tap into pin 6 (green and black) for - and pin 7 (blue and white) for +

That should get everyone set up to quickly hook up an aftermarket amp and sub, and add a line output converter. The green remote wire would also be good for cutouts, or anything else that only needs power when the car is on.

Thanks everyone for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'll get a pic of the setup when i go back down to my car. It's very basic, Alpine Type R 12" in a bassworx ported box, with an Alpine M500 amp mounted to the back of the box. I've had the same system for about 7 years now, and I still love it. Works great, plenty of bass, and it has NEVER let me down once.

The amp kit I wired it up with is here: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

The LOC i used is here: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI35-Adjustable-2-Channel-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369588513&sr=1-1&keywords=pac+line+out+converter

the bassworx box is like this one, except a 12" and I painted the silver ring black: http://www.amazon.com/Bassworx-RP10G-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0047PUDJC/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369588534&sr=1-5&keywords=bassworx
 

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I believe the sub signal are low level pre-amp inputs. I originally used a loc but could not get the gain where I wanted it. I went direct into the amp from the sub wire. My JL amp has a procedure for pushing a tone and measuring the voltage going into the amp to properly adjust the sensitivity. Sounded much better with no LOC.
 

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I believe the sub signal are low level pre-amp inputs. I originally used a loc but could not get the gain where I wanted it. I went direct into the amp from the sub wire. My JL amp has a procedure for pushing a tone and measuring the voltage going into the amp to properly adjust the sensitivity. Sounded much better with no LOC.
So when you say that you took the wires directly from the factory sub connection, what do you mean by that? Did you splice into the subs + and - and then to your HI-Level amp input wires? I remember there being 4 (2+/2-) HI-Level amp input wires so would you need to connect both + wires from the amps input to the + factory sub wire? I have a mono amp so maybe i'm just overthinking it since I haven't dealt with any car stereo integration for a while.
 

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According to my wiring diagram, the sub has four leads. 12volts, ground, pos signal, neg signal. I tapped about 3 inches before the sub connector off the + - signal wires and left the connector unplugged from the stock sub. My amp will take speaker level to preamp level. I could not get the sensitivity adjusted correctly using a LOC so I just went directly from the sub to the input of my amp then adjusted the sensitivity according to the manual.
 

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According to my wiring diagram, the sub has four leads. 12volts, ground, pos signal, neg signal. I tapped about 3 inches before the sub connector off the + - signal wires and left the connector unplugged from the stock sub. My amp will take speaker level to preamp level. I could not get the sensitivity adjusted correctly using a LOC so I just went directly from the sub to the input of my amp then adjusted the sensitivity according to the manual.
My speaker level to preamp level has 4 wires coming off of it...do you use all 4, or just one positive and one negative?
 

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You only need one positive and one neg. Just make sure you are using the same output to the amp as the input. Ie if 2 channels, use channel 1 input and channel 1 output.
 

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Can anyone help with where to hookup the LOC for a 2009 sedan? I pulled out a sub, amp, LOC and all the wires from my previous vehicle. Everything seems pretty easy except I can find the speaker wires in the trunk. I really don't want to pull out the seat to get to the wires if I don't have to.
Thanks
 
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