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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. Thanks in advance for any input. Please bare with me as this car/build was/is a project.

Let me start by saying that I know it could be A LOT of different things and I do expect A LOT of things thrown at me. I already know I could be dealing with a cracked block/heads, blown head gasket, maybe bad rings causing major blow by. I do plan on doing a compression check and hopefully pressurizing the coolant system.

Outside of the normal possibilities listed above, I need some experienced knowledge as to whether or not there are other reasons for the car smoking heavily on throttle. Piecing this car back together I know that the previous owner had done a lot of upgrades to the car but stripped it all down before surrendering the car to insurance for salvaging. With an E85 sensor previously installed, I know the car has to be tuned for that to work. I have NO idea what kind of tuning was done. Now I have the car back together with most likely different parts from the previous owner, could the previous tune have anything to do with possible smoke? ALSO, I think the previous owner left E85 in the tank, or race gas, or whatever gas in it and the car has been sitting for about a year now (I had no idea it had previous gas as the car read empty...but later realized the fuel assembly with level was missing)(double oops that I didn't think about draining it). Would that also contribute to the smoke? I personally can't smell coolant or oil from the exhaust smoke but my sense of smell isn't that great. I smell a weird fuel smell though and that is why I am asking these random questions.
Other notable mentions are broken cutouts stuck open and I can not say if the cats are good or bad other than they are still there and are not hollow.

I know that there are a lot of maybes and until I test it I wont find any exact answers but I have to rely on other people to help me with those tests and bring the equipment to do them. So, until then, feel free to throw out some suggestions or questions and I'll do my best to answer.

Oh...I guess I should also list the changes that I did to the car.
smaller supercharger pulley (2.55), airaid intake, id1050x, dw300c w/fpr upgrade, lower temp thermostat, upgraded spark plugs (cant remember what everyone uses), zl1 lid w/reinforced brick, rebuilt supercharger with solid isolator and ported snout. Ported LS3 throttle body. I think thats about it. I will say that all the listed above is brand new except for the supercharger itself hence the rebuild. I have brand new o2 sensors as well. Any other upgrade has to do with the supercharger cooling which consists of the extra capacity tank, upgraded intercooler pump and intercooler. All those are new as well but I dont believe that would contribute to any smoke.

ONE MORE NOTE: No check engine lights or codes I am aware of. The car is not registered nor do I have license plates so I have not even tried to drive it to check to see if a check engine light will come on. I am not sure it would be wise to do so anyways. I have let the car idle until temperatures have been reached and the fans come on two separate times. I will try and get some video of the car smoking this Sunday as that is my only day off.
 

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Do a leakdown on the engine hot. Hopefully your ring seal is in good shape.

Engine coolant issues are not common on these that Ive seen anywhere...make sure your brick is in tact as that can leak coolant.

Otherwise its likely oil and bad rings/scored cylinders...this is amplified on these engines due to the oil squirters spraying the pistons constantly. Maybe Im being overly pessimistic...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lets start with what color smoke?
I want to say white. I should have mentioned that. I know its not black. I honestly do not know what blue smoke looks like as far as cars go so I will stick with white.

Do a leakdown on the engine hot. Hopefully your ring seal is in good shape.

Engine coolant issues are not common on these that Ive seen anywhere...make sure your brick is in tact as that can leak coolant.

Otherwise its likely oil and bad rings/scored cylinders...this is amplified on these engines due to the oil squirters spraying the pistons constantly. Maybe Im being overly pessimistic...
Thanks Adam. I am hoping its nothing where I have to pull the engine otherwise I will hate myself for not pulling it in the beginning. I also will not eliminate it being the brick even though the lid and brick were purchased new from Dedicated Motorsport. How often will a new brick leak? I mean...I know reinforcing the brick is modifying the factory brick but could that cause it to go bad? I will not eliminate that possibility though.

A friend of mine said to look into Rislone just in case the rings need a little help as the car has been sitting for over a year. Any suggestions on that?
 

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I want to say white. I should have mentioned that. I know its not black. I honestly do not know what blue smoke looks like as far as cars go so I will stick with white.


Thanks Adam. I am hoping its nothing where I have to pull the engine otherwise I will hate myself for not pulling it in the beginning. I also will not eliminate it being the brick even though the lid and brick were purchased new from Dedicated Motorsport. How often will a new brick leak? I mean...I know reinforcing the brick is modifying the factory brick but could that cause it to go bad? I will not eliminate that possibility though.

A friend of mine said to look into Rislone just in case the rings need a little help as the car has been sitting for over a year. Any suggestions on that?
White will be a very stark white...blue is a just a hue to the exhaust..no I don't believe a brand new brick from DMS is leaking
 

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That type of smoke is coolant but I think you should be able to smell coolant in the exhaust. Check for coolant loss, pressure test, etc.

Why are you modding a car that doesn’t run right and isn’t tuned for your mods? You can’t just throw 1050 injectors on a car without tuning for them! Sounds like you are begging for trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That type of smoke is coolant but I think you should be able to smell coolant in the exhaust. Check for coolant loss, pressure test, etc.

Why are you modding a car that doesn’t run right and isn’t tuned for your mods? You can’t just throw 1050 injectors on a car without tuning for them! Sounds like you are begging for trouble.
My friend brought over a pressure tester kit which I will try and tackle on Sunday.
I do understand your the logic behind the question. Car was originally missing the top half of the engine along with a lot of items. So, perhaps I can say the car was bought as a roller with block and heads (lol). I know where I wanted to go with the car and I couldn't justify buying completely stock items where I would have to disassemble the car to replace them with aftermarket items so I just bought the aftermarket parts to begin with and then worry about tuning after. Previous owner probably had the car tuned anyways so even factory parts it wouldn't have run 100 percent correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Injectors need scaled for sure
My original plan was to do e85 and maybe cam it, or at least do the lower pulley with upper pulley hence the id1050s. I read to always try and plan ahead.

I'm pretty sure at this given time, consensus is that I can eliminate all the other possibilities now and just focus on the cooling....crack in the block, heads or like a leak somewhere that its producing the smoke out the exhaust.
 

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if its that deep and you dont know what is what. you would be best starting from the top . remove engine and pull file from ecm to see what it is or to reflash with a base file and then go together with the engine and modify the stock file to your fit.

without the tune or engine sound , you will chase yourself in circle and pointing fingers as to what is happening.
 

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there are plenty of wiser people on here than I. but I suggest towing it to a competent shop and have them give it the once over. once they give it the ok, i would get a tune, based on your mods from someone like Pat G.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^^This^^^
Did you pull the heads to inspect before building/putting it together?
Yeah I know...:rolleyes: I definitely should have. I wanted to pull the whole thing and build it from bottom up (I had to think about smog before doing that though) but the guy helping me said to just put it together. His logic was if its good an you pull the engine, you are spending more money having to put it back together where you could have saved money. If its bad, you'll have to pull it and do it then but at least you'll know at that point.

if its that deep and you dont know what is what. you would be best starting from the top . remove engine and pull file from ecm to see what it is or to reflash with a base file and then go together with the engine and modify the stock file to your fit.

without the tune or engine sound , you will chase yourself in circle and pointing fingers as to what is happening.
I'm on the path of a coolant pressure test and a leak down test. After that, engine might be coming out and going from there. I know for sure that everything that I did is good to go. Its going to be in the heads or block....maybe its a good reason to upgrade. LSX?

there are plenty of wiser people on here than I. but I suggest towing it to a competent shop and have them give it the once over. once they give it the ok, i would get a tune, based on your mods from someone like Pat G.
I am absolutely positive there are wiser people on here than me thats why I am here. As far as local mechanics...I honestly am not sure about that one. Basic factory repairs maybe but, upgrades and custom work...forget it. I might have to take it the city but...thats over an hour away and I'm sure more money than I need to spend. I really want to take it to Matt in San Francisco area for the tune but he doesn't take on projects. Running cars only so....here I am. :ROFLMAO:

I have to say that even with the problems and possibly having to pull the engine, I'm glad I have some experience behind me and even with a smoking car, I am proud to have gotten the car running and looking forward to the next fix.
 

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At the very least, I would read the tune that is in it, modify it for the 1050's and then go from there.
 

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If the block or head is cracked, I think you ought to have water in the oil sump (which can sometimes generate a coffee-cream colored deposit on the underside of the oil fill cap). If it's a head gasket, it's just going to emit steam. Even if a gasket exposes both the water and oil passages, the oil system is going to be at much higher pressure than the water. And having had a few head gasket issues in the past (one cracked head, thank you Chrysler Motor Corp), I can attest to the fact that the white smoke doesn't always smell of coolant. I almost passed out once, inhaling too deeply off the tailpipe in an attempt to convince myself my problem was a coolant leak. Ultimately, the loss of coolant was the deciding factor, not the smell.

Leakdown test will find a head gasket. May or may not find a crack depending on where the crack is.

I've also had luck spotting a leak using a borescope through the spark plug hole, to inspect around inside the bore where the top of the cylinder meets the head. Also good for spotting scratched cylinder walls caused by busted rings (basically, if a car can break a certain way, I've had it happen to me). It's been a while since I've had to do any of this, though. Stopped buying cars I had to work on to keep running. Borescopes were expensive back then. Now you can get something for $15 that's 5mm in diameter, that shoots hi-def, that attaches to your cell phone. Everyone should have one of these things in their toolbox. Tape it to a piece of bent coat hangar wire and poke it in to any opening large enough it'll fit to see what's inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If the block or head is cracked, I think you ought to have water in the oil sump (which can sometimes generate a coffee-cream colored deposit on the underside of the oil fill cap). If it's a head gasket, it's just going to emit steam. Even if a gasket exposes both the water and oil passages, the oil system is going to be at much higher pressure than the water. And having had a few head gasket issues in the past (one cracked head, thank you Chrysler Motor Corp), I can attest to the fact that the white smoke doesn't always smell of coolant. I almost passed out once, inhaling too deeply off the tailpipe in an attempt to convince myself my problem was a coolant leak. Ultimately, the loss of coolant was the deciding factor, not the smell.

Leakdown test will find a head gasket. May or may not find a crack depending on where the crack is.

I've also had luck spotting a leak using a borescope through the spark plug hole, to inspect around inside the bore where the top of the cylinder meets the head. Also good for spotting scratched cylinder walls caused by busted rings (basically, if a car can break a certain way, I've had it happen to me). It's been a while since I've had to do any of this, though. Stopped buying cars I had to work on to keep running. Borescopes were expensive back then. Now you can get something for $15 that's 5mm in diameter, that shoots hi-def, that attaches to your cell phone. Everyone should have one of these things in their toolbox. Tape it to a piece of bent coat hangar wire and poke it in to any opening large enough it'll fit to see what's inside.
Thanks for the information.

Since today is Sunday and its my day off, I worked on the car a bit. Discovered that the white smoke is from blow-by. Started the car and found smoke coming out the filler neck once the cap was removed. Pulled the intake vent hose and its coming out there too. No leak down test needed to tell me that its in a cylinder. Whether its the rings or the walls. I have a good borescope and before I assembled the top half I did a quick view in each cylinder and looked like normal wear. Goes to show that one never knows.

I ran the car to normal operating temps this past week and didn't have any mixture of coolant and oil. Today I noticed some gooey stuff on the oil filler cap but the oil is still clean in the dipstick. I'm gonna run the car to temp this week and see if it the dipstick will show the same gooey mixture. I figured that if its the rings or cylinder walls engine has to be taken out and torn down anyways. I might just buy a short block to make it simpler and easier to get this car up and running correctly (sans tune).

Thanks all!!
 
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