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Been doing a good bit the last few weeks. Core Shifter, V3 carbon front lip, rotors/pads and last week installed a Zl1 lid w/reinforced brick and a Varimax pump. HOLY HELL what a difference.


I had previously installed an expansion tank and low mount HX. There was always a minimum 30-35* variance in IAT2's compared to IAT1. With this new setup I'm averaging 14-17* and it drops SO fast after a pull. Incredibly happy with it.


I also spent far too many hours trying to fix my QTP cutouts. I put them on the car 5 years ago when I first got it because it was stock and far too quiet. Needless to say they stayed opened for basically the entire time. Now that I have headers and an x-pipe the car is way too loud with them open. Hit the remote, no luck. Climb under and find that the pins got pulled out of the harness god knows how long ago.

Remove the valves and solder on new harnesses for the whole set up. Check fuses, power and wouldn't you know- the ground got burned up. I'm guessing it shorted from having the open wires under the car. Get that squared away and only 1 of the cutouts will work. Swapped harnesses with the same result. Order a new motor for it, installed and still no luck. For the life of me I can't figure out the issue. Butterfly moves freely without the motor connected, motor still won't move without the butterfly connected. I need to just get rid of them I really don't feel like spending $2k on a Corsa that won't improve performance.

View attachment 164335
Also @WookieNoiz

Did you guys have any issues getting your shifter off? I have the core shifter that I need to install soon also but have been fearing a stubborn knob... any other tips? thanks
 

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'12 Coupe 6m 627whp/669wtq
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Also @WookieNoiz

Did you guys have any issues getting your shifter off? I have the core shifter that I need to install soon also but have been fearing a stubborn knob... any other tips? thanks

The knob will be the least of your worries. The 10mm bolts tucked in there are a real btch. Get a crowsfoot wrench. I don't recall the knob being much of an issue.
 
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Gotta say this board saved me again.

Driver side door (coupe) was acting wonky.

I remember reading about cleaning the pressure switch for coupes.

Removed, disassembled, was grody as fuck and the CRC electronic cleaner removed the green corrosion on the tabs that contact the circuit runs and the runs themselves.

Reassembled and bingo, immediately better.
 

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Good Luck MrSurly
 

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Gotta say this board saved me again.

Driver side door (coupe) was acting wonky.

I remember reading about cleaning the pressure switch for coupes.

Removed, disassembled, was grody as fuck and the CRC electronic cleaner removed the green corrosion on the tabs that contact the circuit runs and the runs themselves.

Reassembled and bingo, immediately better.
Hmmm..the trunk release button on my door is not working either. Might need to do this myself.
 

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Gotta say this board saved me again.

Driver side door (coupe) was acting wonky.

I remember reading about cleaning the pressure switch for coupes.

Removed, disassembled, was grody as fuck and the CRC electronic cleaner removed the green corrosion on the tabs that contact the circuit runs and the runs themselves.

Reassembled and bingo, immediately better.
Where is that switch? My Driver door is acting up again. The first time it did it the Dealer replaced the switch and that didn't fix it. So the replaced the lock and that did it. Of course that was under warranty. Now it's my dime.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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The knob will be the least of your worries. The 10mm bolts tucked in there are a real btch. Get a crowsfoot wrench. I don't recall the knob being much of an issue.
Here are a couple images that might help out. If you remove PN: #12 (rubber boot) you will be better able to access and remove the #4 each 10mm bolts. A short 10mm box/open end wrench works well for this, also a shallow 10mm swivel 1/4" drive SnapOn socket works well. The boot is not really an issue. Just unclip the leather boot, pull upwards hard and fast!
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Here are a couple images that might help out. If you remove PN: #12 (rubber boot) you will be better able to access and remove the #4 each 10mm bolts. A short 10mm box/open end wrench works well for this, also a shallow 10mm swivel 1/4" drive SnapOn socket works well. The boot is not really an issue. Just unclip the leather boot, pull upwards hard and fast! View attachment 164394 View attachment 164395
Much appreciated!
 

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Where is that switch? My Driver door is acting up again. The first time it did it the Dealer replaced the switch and that didn't fix it. So the replaced the lock and that did it. Of course that was under warranty. Now it's my dime.
The switch assembly is screwed with two screws into the upper door frame (where your fingers go to push the buttons). It pulls away to expose the connector. Unclip (be careful to NOT have it fall back into the door.

There are 7 screws that you need to remove. The rubber pad comes away and you will have disassembled to liberally spray the cleaner on.

Reverse order to reassemble.
 
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The switch assembly is screwed with two screws into the upper door frame (where your fingers go to push the buttons). It pulls away to expose the connector. Unclip (be careful to NOT have it fall back into the door.

There are 7 screws that you need to remove. The rubber pad comes away and you will have disassembled to liberally spray the cleaner on.

Reverse order to reassemble.
Thank you sir!

I'll try that first.
 

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Here are a couple images that might help out. If you remove PN: #12 (rubber boot) you will be better able to access and remove the #4 each 10mm bolts. A short 10mm box/open end wrench works well for this, also a shallow 10mm swivel 1/4" drive SnapOn socket works well. The boot is not really an issue. Just unclip the leather boot, pull upwards hard and fast!
I'm all finished with mine but I wanted to let you know you're the man, always helping people out.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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I'm all finished with mine but I wanted to let you know you're the man, always helping people out.
I try, thanks for the kind words. I realize over time members of this site contribute what they can, it's a collective of experience and knowledge to share. It's definitely the go to place.
 
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