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Stop right there.
Although one anecdotal example is not a trend... Consider that I, just a few weeks ago, went through the teardown and inspection of my 146,000 mile bone stock, lady's daily driver LSA.
Yes, it's a single example but in combination with the reading I've done and the pics seen of many other LSAs, I have taken the liberty to draw some conclusions that I think are pretty solid.
My number one take away that would apply to you: You need main bearings. OR at the minimum, you really should take a LOOK at them.
in my build thread you will find references to what I dubbed "Freebuild" and the results found. The engine started making a VERY SUBTLE noise that I could only hear in neutral, at 2800~3000 rpm. I was convinced that the noise was piston slap; teardown proved me wrong, it was the main bearings. Not spun, not fatally damaged yet, but time to freshen them up before they got worse.
My number two comment would be: No sane person puts 140K mile roller lifters back in.

It is a 'known fact' (using Cliff Clavin's voice) that when pushed to their HP limits, a common first-failure area of the LSA is the mains. Apparently due to both block flex AND crank whip.
It is my supposition that even a mild or stock LSA given enough miles will eventually have main bearing issues (if a lifter doesn't wipe out first).
I found it interesting to observe in my LSA that the center crank bearing (including the thrust faces) was in perfect shape, while the damage to the other mains was perfectly progressive from the center toward each end of the crank (numbers 1 & 5 were much worse than 2 & 4).
To me, this suggested crank flex. The crank itself was undamaged.

It should also be possible to 're-shell' the mains without pulling the block out of the car, but you'd need to pull the trans,
Just points to ponder.
Message received. Yeah, I was still debating just given what I may be taking on, especially with supply chain and everything else going on lol.
 

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Nice! Let us know the results!
 

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Thanks, I do not know what the part # is on the spring in the back, I did some digging and found an install manual from Eibach showing the part # in the pic for the fronts for Sedans and Wagons tho
You're right, all versions use the same front springs. The rear will determine which kit you have. If the rear springs are 38148, then it's the coupe kit. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Message received. Yeah, I was still debating just given what I may be taking on, especially with supply chain and everything else going on lol.
I could be all wet. But you could drop the pan and just take a quick look at 2 & 4? If they look fine, move on.
 
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We all have boxes like that...shelves of boxes for some...
 

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Already running "square setup" 285/35R19 tires on 9.5x19 Sedan Rear wheels for all 4 corners with 12mm front spacers + extended studs and 15mm rear adapters. Now on KW V3s, not because I care too much about "drop" or "stance" but mostly to replace leaky rear shocks. Added bonus that the system will be better equipped to handle the setup, so the rubbing I had when going over speed bumps should be eliminated now.

Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Vehicle


Before:

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle
 

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Rec’d MORE stuff!
Fluidyne HX Thanks Kenny!!
15” rotors
WIld XL catch can
-12 hose and fitting kit
some 3/4 SS tubing that i plan to fab a manifold with
Motor works Valve Covers
need to take more pics
TLZ (?) rear tie rods
15” calipers….

Motion really does a super job of packaging, presentation. You just spent a lot of money on valve covers but the slick packaging makes you feel like you got a little more than expected.








 

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What are the inlet and outlet sizes on the intercooler?
They are 3/4” hose barbs. zi would have preferred AN fittings but these will do.


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looking at the emp pump from lingenfelter it requires 1" fittings
Got a link? Their 1030085005P0005A emp uses 3/4”.
1” doesn’t seem right since I can’t recall seeing an HX with 1” or -16 fittings


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But their test was 3/4 hoses?

it says 1” HX outlet. but 3/4 pump… i’m confused


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Already running "square setup" 285/35R19 tires on 9.5x19 Sedan Rear wheels for all 4 corners with 12mm front spacers + extended studs and 15mm rear adapters. Now on KW V3s, not because I care too much about "drop" or "stance" but mostly to replace leaky rear shocks. Added bonus that the system will be better equipped to handle the setup, so the rubbing I had when going over speed bumps should be eliminated now.

View attachment 158432

Before:

View attachment 158433
looks good. Are those Extreme Contact sports? Do you have a link for the spacers and studs?
 
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