[JonQwest]

Ran my normal checks for a weekend ride. Noticed coolant in a spot that didn't need coolant (just below the headers). Sadly confirmed my suspicion and head gasket has left the chat. Trying to decide what I want to do now. 😢

 

[MrSurly]

In for the part-out!!

 

[mememe123]

Ran my normal checks for a weekend ride. Noticed coolant in a spot that didn't need coolant (just below the headers). Sadly confirmed my suspicion and head gasket has left the chat. Trying to decide what I want to do now. 😢

Change head gaskets ?
Might as well do your springs and retainers while you are at it.

 

[MrSurly]

Just kidding. Is your engine stock? You know, the WYIT force is mighty strong around here.
No better opportunity for a fresh new cam...

You might be perched precariously at the crest of snowball hill…

 

[MrSurly]

Finally ordered some valve covers today. there actually are not many options (believe it or not) when you need AN -10 ports on baffled covers with a flat top.

 

[JonQwest]

In for the part-out!!

sad face

Change head gaskets ?
Might as well do your springs and retainers while you are at it.

Yeah. That was another thing I was looking at. It's got a GP Tuning 2.5 with the BTR kit (springs, retainers, etc) that was done about 20k miles by the previous owner.

Just kidding. Is your engine stock? You know, the WYIT force is mighty strong around here.
No better opportunity for a fresh new cam...

You might be perched precariously at the crest of snowball hill…

SBE, headers, exhaust, GP Tuning 2.5, BTR kit, 2.5 upper, 850cc injectors, AEM pumps, JMS BAP. Previous owner did the engine mods. I just did the exhaust, DMS ZL1 lid (I bought into the hype), ALM fuel hat, and Eibachs. And yeah, I'm at the precipice lol. The issue currently is, do I have the time and patience to try to get into a build? Especially with limited space and a wife that was never too fond of the car to begin with lol.

 

[loweredd]

Finally ordered some valve covers today. there actually are not many options (believe it or not) when you need AN -10 ports on baffled covers with a flat top.
View attachment 158299

Try finding them with coil mounts!! That's even worse. I know Motion has brackets they will sell you for $170 more.

Did you get a set of blems?

 

[Rekkr]

i vote to keep it and try and fix it under the wife’s radar. If you do decide to part it or get rid of it, let me know

 

[MrSurly]

Did you get a set of blems?

No blems offered that I saw in this application. I sure wish!


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[MrSurly]

sad face



Yeah. That was another thing I was looking at. It's got a GP Tuning 2.5 with the BTR kit (springs, retainers, etc) that was done about 20k miles by the previous owner.



SBE, headers, exhaust, GP Tuning 2.5, BTR kit, 2.5 upper, 850cc injectors, AEM pumps, JMS BAP. Previous owner did the engine mods. I just did the exhaust, DMS ZL1 lid (I bought into the hype), ALM fuel hat, and Eibachs. And yeah, I'm at the precipice lol. The issue currently is, do I have the time and patience to try to get into a build? Especially with limited space and a wife that was never too fond of the car to begin with lol.

With the cooling mods and reinforced brick and exhaust, you have a great base to work with. Don’t know that you need to get into the bottom end although forging it up would be nice.


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[OregonV-Machine]

I drove my V down to the store and back, wishing one day that everyone with a V would come to Medford, Oregon and race at the drag strip.

 

[kittyboy]

Finally ordered some valve covers today. there actually are not many options (believe it or not) when you need AN -10 ports on baffled covers with a flat top.
View attachment 158299

I am curious to know your thoughts going with -10 ventilation? At what power level will the stock diameter not be sufficient? Also, what else are you modifying for crank case ventilation? Thanks

 

[JonQwest]

With the cooling mods and reinforced brick and exhaust, you have a great base to work with. Don’t know that you need to get into the bottom end although forging it up would be nice.


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Yeah, she has about 140k on it (hence why I'm kinda worried about the bottom end). There's a built LQ4 long block near me that I'm kinda contemplating, but I'm also not familiar enough with the platform to know the logistics.

 

[MrSurly]

Yeah, she has about 140k on it

Stop right there.
Although one anecdotal example is not a trend... Consider that I, just a few weeks ago, went through the teardown and inspection of my 146,000 mile bone stock, lady's daily driver LSA.
Yes, it's a single example but in combination with the reading I've done and the pics seen of many other LSAs, I have taken the liberty to draw some conclusions that I think are pretty solid.
My number one take away that would apply to you: You need main bearings. OR at the minimum, you really should take a LOOK at them.
in my build thread you will find references to what I dubbed "Freebuild" and the results found. The engine started making a VERY SUBTLE noise that I could only hear in neutral, at 2800~3000 rpm. I was convinced that the noise was piston slap; teardown proved me wrong, it was the main bearings. Not spun, not fatally damaged yet, but time to freshen them up before they got worse.
My number two comment would be: No sane person puts 140K mile roller lifters back in.

It is a 'known fact' (using Cliff Clavin's voice) that when pushed to their HP limits, a common first-failure area of the LSA is the mains. Apparently due to both block flex AND crank whip.
It is my supposition that even a mild or stock LSA given enough miles will eventually have main bearing issues (if a lifter doesn't wipe out first).
I found it interesting to observe in my LSA that the center crank bearing (including the thrust faces) was in perfect shape, while the damage to the other mains was perfectly progressive from the center toward each end of the crank (numbers 1 & 5 were much worse than 2 & 4).
To me, this suggested crank flex. The crank itself was undamaged.

It should also be possible to 're-shell' the mains without pulling the block out of the car, but you'd need to pull the trans,
Just points to ponder.

 

[ThunderOne]

Are these Eibach lowering springs? I am still trying to figure out what the previous owner did to the car. Sedan btw

 

[MrSurly]

I am curious to know your thoughts going with -10 ventilation? At what power level will the stock diameter not be sufficient? Also, what else are you modifying for crank case ventilation? Thanks

1. I'm no expert, I'm following the paths of others
2. My build would be considered a 'Max Effort' build, potentially over a 1k hp.
3. I'm building an iron block, so probably somewhat less blowby than an a high-build LSA, but still more than stock, for sure
4. stock, the factory PCV system is adequate but only just. even low-level mods will be well served to add a catch can at minimum, to prevent oil in the intake and to reduce related detonation.
5. I don't know the hp level that would be the limit to the stock 3/8 hose sizes.. many smarter folks here would have more info
6. it has been said that if I was building on an LS3 or other alloy block that I would need -12 fittings/hoses
7. I am using a Mighty Mouse Wild XL PCV can with -10 inlets and _6 outlet. That can has a valve-controlled external breather.
8. If building a "modest bolt-on" LSA, I would suggest at least a Mighty Mouse PCV can and 3/8 hoses.
9. My best and most supportable suggestion is to inquire of the very experienced folks around this forum for more specific guidance. They really are very good.

 

[MrSurly]

Are these Eibach lowering springs? I am still trying to figure out what the previous owner did to the car. Sedan btw

Umm.... yes

 

[BV_Mully]

Are these Eibach lowering springs? I am still trying to figure out what the previous owner did to the car. Sedan btw

FYI they are coupe lowering springs from Eibach. I run the same on my sedan. They lower the rear more than the sedan springs.

 

[ThunderOne]

FYI they are coupe lowering springs from Eibach. I run the same on my sedan. They lower the rear more than the sedan springs.

Thanks, I do not know what the part # is on the spring in the back, I did some digging and found an install manual from Eibach showing the part # in the pic for the fronts for Sedans and Wagons tho

 

[kittyboy]

1. I'm no expert, I'm following the paths of others
2. My build would be considered a 'Max Effort' build, potentially over a 1k hp.
3. I'm building an iron block, so probably somewhat less blowby than an a high-build LSA, but still more than stock, for sure
4. stock, the factory PCV system is adequate but only just. even low-level mods will be well served to add a catch can at minimum, to prevent oil in the intake and to reduce related detonation.
5. I don't know the hp level that would be the limit to the stock 3/8 hose sizes.. many smarter folks here would have more info
6. it has been said that if I was building on an LS3 or other alloy block that I would need -12 fittings/hoses
7. I am using a Mighty Mouse Wild XL PCV can with -10 inlets and _6 outlet. That can has a valve-controlled external breather.
8. If building a "modest bolt-on" LSA, I would suggest at least a Mighty Mouse PCV can and 3/8 hoses.
9. My best and most supportable suggestion is to inquire of the very experienced folks around this forum for more specific guidance. They really are very good.

Thank you for providing your feedback. Currently I have a filtered valve cover breather as a temp, still running the stock 3/8" LSA style setup. I did slightly tune the MAF, didn't seem to require much at cruise or WOT. My main concern is at WOT and blowing rubber seals! I do have a catch can installed, currently in the neighborhood of a 1000hp at the crank. This WAS to be my last and final concern until I discovered the lower control arm cradle mount issue!!! haha