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Ordered Headers and Catted Mid pipes.
 

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Drove it in thunderstorm with my new r888's on the back. Not going to lie, I was a bit terrified. Seemed to do pretty good although I was driving like I was taking my drivers test at 16.
 

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Yah, I missed that. They did a pretty good facsimile... and I was skimming.

Brings up the thought though; yes the forged wheels are stronger... but is anyone actually breaking cast wheels? Not counting collisions, how often does anyone break a cheap wheel while hooning around?
The root question of course is are we wasting money on overbuilt forged wheels?


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Forged wheels often weigh much less than cast wheels, so you gain performance in addition to strength. The ratio is ~4:1 when shedding unsprung weight vs sprung weight.

With the advent of flow formed / rotary forged wheels, the gap has been narrowed significantly between cast and forged wheels in terms of both strength and weight. I believe Weld is releasing a rotary forged wheel. You get ~80% of the performance (read: weight saving and strength) for ~50% of the cost.

My update for today. Took the day off work and was going to knock out my CS cradle and diff bushings. I jacked the car up, looked at all the shit to be done and decided I didn’t have nearly enough beer in stock to tackle the project. I decided to install my R1 rotors and pads instead.

Time: 4 hours
Beer: 2 hazy DIPA
Music: Arcania, Wage War, other metal
Fucks yelled: 1 when I decided to try to re-fit my rear bumper and the fucker decided to fall on all the rocks that had just dumped out of it.
Collateral damage: my wallet after realizing how beat my wheels and calipers are. I’m going to have to powder coat them all.



 

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That's sweet! I am trying to find Drag radials for mine in 345/xx/19. Currently running 325s on a similar set up.
So today I left a place, not a cars and coffee sort of dealio, in a hurry to go get some cash and be back fast. When I accelerated quickly making a turn out into traffic I heard the Left rear rubbing on the inside.

I think I might do 3mm spacers for little extra clearance.

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I changed front dampers and eibach lowering springs and when I set it down the upper control arm ball joint failed. So time for 2 new upper control arms. Wtf!
 

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This is on sale at HomeDepot for 99...with battery and charger...which is only 20 more that the one with no battery for 79.

151590
 

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I changed front dampers and eibach lowering springs and when I set it down the upper control arm ball joint failed. So time for 2 new upper control arms. Wtf!
ummmm. what?
Failed, like how?
were gonna need those pics
 

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The ball joint is no longer serviceable. Due to the added spring rate and these UCAs having 30k on them they failed.
Sorry, but that does not compute.
Is that what the installing shop is telling you? That seriously sounds like a phrase spoken by a Service Writer to the wife who took the car in for alignment.


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Sorry, but that does not compute.
Is that what the installing shop is telling you? That seriously sounds like a phrase spoken by a Service Writer to the little woman who took the car in for alignment.


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It is a well respected shop and I reviewed the failed ball joint. I am also a mechanical engineer and know how these things work, and paraphrased the technicians descrption.

I will put it in terms you'd understand. The ball joint is worn out and makes a noise when it moves. The added spring rate, apparently made it more prevalent.
 

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Thanks for the clarification because the info previously provided (the phrasing) was seriously striking the double-speak nerve.
Thanks for explaining that the failure mode is noise (and wear?).
I changed the UCAs (for bushing wear) at 132k and couldn’t discover any noticeable wear in the ball joints even with severe vise-and-pry-bar testing measures. It still sounds odd at 30K.


As an aside, I don’t think the upper ball joints could be effected by the spring rate change. The car still weighs the same. The UCA has no vertical loading to speak of... I don’t know, but I’m glad you caught it.
 
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