[MrSurly]

Brick reinforcement, pcm of NC plates

Didn’t smell very good, should have cleaned it up better beforehand.


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Good stuff that. Source for the plates?
I have a TiG machine but not much TiG talent. I do zoK if it’s not super thin stuff. How heavy is the parent metal of those ends?


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[MrSurly]

Sweet! Is that a 2-1/16" gauge?

 

[MrSurly]

Ordered some new wheels; I had ordered a pair of MT ET SS tires and need somewhere to mount them.

I fell for this design and then discovered they were back ordered, out of stock most places. I ended up ordering singles from different places to get a set together.
I like the look and the black chrome, but there’s a bit of a grab-bag element to this as every website seems to have a different color representation in their online pics. It’s just computer settings, I know, but I’m really curious to see them in person(!)

 

[MrSurly]

I’m curious about other aspects, not worried about the extra holes, but really curious about fitment.
I plan to run 305s on the rear (V Coupe) so not worried about the extra 3/4” width. They only offered the 35mm offset (or 15mm) where the offset that I really need is closer to +50.
If my thinking is right, the extra width + 5mm offset should be giving me. About a half inch more ‘poke’.... but I’m worried I’ve got that all wrong.
AND the 305s are going to be MT ETs and I’ve read that they add to the poke with their sidewall design as their section width is an INCH greater than that of ‘normal’ tires such as the PS4S So, I don’t know.

FWIW, in 19” they offered 8.75 & 10.75 wide; 15 & 35 offsets.

I need to find out what the OEM offset is on the fronts... I know the rear is 40.

The wheels ordered for the fronts are 19/8.75/35os.
These have a 73.1mm bore so I need rings and lugs yet.
I really wish I could have found them all at one vendor and got the whole kit from one source, but oh well.
The fronts were ordered from tiresandwheels.com and using their online ‘configurator’ looking only at the fronts, it warns that using this 19/8.75/35os and the stock tires will “require modifications” to the fenders.

EDITING to update. The XXR wheels are apparently on backorder and I have only rec'd ONE wheel. It's beautiful, I loved the finish that I would describe as chrome gunmetal(?) I've learned that the OEM coupe wheels have a 40mm offset rear (10" wide) and a 51mm offset front (9" wide) Most aftermarket wheels that are wide do not have enough offset, which results in their sticking out of the fender (too much 'poke'). Anyway, a totally different plan now. Sending this one wheel back, I am installing Corvette (C6) Z06 wheels which are the only OEM application I can find that specs sufficient offset and width in the right bolt pattern. The Z06 wheels actually have 'too much' offset and will require the use of spacers. I will make a thread on it here.

 

[MrSurly]

To each his own. If you like em that’s all
that matters.
Since you asked, (understanding that it would depend heavily on the style or design you used) in my opinion, roof rails would to take away a little bit from the “V look” and make it look more Grandma’s grocery wagon.
Much like skinny tires and trailer hitches. That’s just my opinion and it’s value equals it’s cost.


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[MrSurly]

I usually look on willtheyfit.com when I'm messing with my vw audi stuff... To be honest I haven't sat down and looked at the wheels and done the math, though my biggest worry would be brake clearance on these. You're right though should be 3/4 plus 5mm to the outside

I think it’s half of 3/4” (so 3/8”) plus the 5mm, which would agree with willtheyfit.
Yes I’ve been wearing out the calculator at willtheyfit and the calculator says that the face of the new wheel will be 14mm closer to the fender than is the stock wheel.
I just don’t know if there is THAT much leeway available.


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[MrSurly]

Ordered front wheels, spacers and tires for the V-coupe (I have a thread on it somewhere)

 

[MrSurly]

Repaired the annoying door open button. Best part: cost of this repair, Zero!

Replaced door “links” (hold open things). Replaced broken seat back release handle (coupe) adjusted and lubed latch mechanism on both seats.
Managed to break the plastic seat back retainer pieces off of the drivers seat back. I removed the pass side seat back first, came away perfectly. Removed the drivers side the same way, broke four tabs. Quite the pisser.

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[MrSurly]

Now THAT'S the way to step UP!

Impressive

 

[MrSurly]

This:

More pics coming

More pics in my tire swap thread: MT ET S/S 325/30/19s on a V2 Coupe...wheels-!.156698/&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

[MrSurly]

Cleaned up the engine bay

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I need your soap!


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[MrSurly]

Questions from a newbie: is that end tank stainless or aluminum?
Can the brick suffer this sort of damage at stock boost levels?
Is 'repair' and then reinforcement an option on this or must it be tossed?
OTHER THAN the ZL1 lid set up, are there aftermarket or alternative bricks available?

 

[MrSurly]

Another silly question: I wonder how much this 'collapse' actually effects the cooling capacity of the brick, Depends on how the exchanger is constructed internally, of course and I've not seen one opened up. I mean, sure it looks bad or at least, less than ideal, but does it truly restrict coolant flow enough to impact btu/H performance?

 

[MrSurly]

I ordered my first 'mod' parts for the V. I ordered an AFE Momentum GT CAI and I bought a 2.5" MPE pulley from DRJ in the classifieds. These will be the first actual mods to go on the car; I dont really count the mid pipes and the gutted cats as legit mods. I also ordered an HP Tuner MPVI2. This will be my intro to car tuning. I have been through the process (and the money pit) of similar products for my Harleys, using Thunder max/DynoJet Power Vision/Daytona TwinTec components and paying for dyno tunes as well as doing my own home tunes. I have now officially entered the Rabbit Hole, after loitering around the entrance for a while. I'm toying with the concept of using my DynoJet WideBand kit on the V. That's going to happen, I think.

 

[MrSurly]

No, just the pulley and cold air so far....




baby steps

 

[MrSurly]

LOL! I know, right? i should've started with meth and the icebox!

 

[MrSurly]

Some mods need to get installed together.
Build Threads | Cadillac CTS-V Forum (ctsvowners.com)

Well the impetus of this step is replacing the isolator, which of course should be accompanied by brick reinforcement/blower porting/snout porting/pulley changes.
When I tackle this part I intend to port the snout and the blower and reinforce the brick all because of the While-You're-In-There rule and the CAI at the same time, of course.
Immediately after doing the brick I will do the heat exchanger and pump.
Injectors/meth/ice box/flex/cam will all have to wait for a while.

However my plans just got interrupted as I'm now about to go overseas for work for likely a couple of months.... oh, well.

 

[MrSurly]

Just received my new HPTuner and installed my first "tune"... nothing but turning off the CEL for o2.

 

[MrSurly]

Then I would do the pulley hub and order a stock size upper. You’re really playing with fire if you change pulley size in stock injectors and that fire looks like a 4400lb paperweight hogging half the garage haha.

Sounds like you are saying that the stock injectors are already maxed-out? Is there no duty cycle to spare?
I will create a (premature) build thread and look forward to input there.
Link to follow in a moment (pun alert)

 

[MrSurly]

It is cutting it close enough that cold air could put you into 100% duty cycle depending on altitude.
Some have gotten away with it, but that seems to be the exception not the rule.

Altitude here is 400'
I have far too many paperweights in my shop. I'm in favor of avoiding bricks.
I would welcome input in my new build thread on this and related topics.