[gnx7]

I'm getting a set of LSA heads ported for a turbo setup and it would be wise I feel to change out the heavy LSA valves (intake is 120g) to something lighter.
I don't want to spend the money on Ti valves... so what are some other options?

Solid s/s for both intake/exhaust? Brand or p/n if you could share it. Doing a BTR spring kit on it also.

Gromm Racing near me in NorCal is doing the CnC work. I'm just supplying parts. I would be spinning it to around 7200rpm max or a touch higher.

 

[gnx7]

nobody has ever changed out the valves to something lighter?

 

[Karch]

What has been done to the lower end?


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[gnx7]

LSA block, Molnar 3.622" crank, Molnar PWR ADR rods in my shop.... then the pistons to still need to be ordered once I take it over to my machine shop. Getting a 91mm turbo... have a 1500hp built powerglide, and its a 4 link spooled 8.8" rear, full cage, parachute, wheelie bars etc.... going into a Mazda RX-7. Trying to run high 7's and keep it under 3000lbs.

It used to have a turbo Coyote and 85mm turbo/TH400 when it lived in Texas.... I have lots of LS parts so I'm going that route. Bought it as a roller. Went bottom 8's all day long and 1.18" 60ft best. I'm going to let the turbo do the work and the heads shouldn't be much of a concern after CNC as they should flow 350-360cfm which is plenty for my goals. Just found out from the machine shop that the valves are stuck in the guides (only 9K miles on them supposedly).... seller said they may have sat in his cleaning vat/tank too long and not properly hosed off/dried afterwards (not happy). I've never had that happen with any set of heads.... so I need valves now anyway.

 

[Rubber Duck]

nobody has ever changed out the valves to something lighter?

Some simply go to the LS3 Valves, which I don't recommend.
And others, have moved up to use Titanium, which I would recommend.

I did not respond to your first post, as your working with Gromm's.

I believe, as I recall, his first name is Bob, and he has been in business there since the early, to mid 1970's. I simply thought it best he be the person to answer your question. . .

Cheers

 

[Rubber Duck]

LSA block, Molnar 3.622" crank, Molnar PWR ADR rods in my shop.... then the pistons to still need to be ordered once I take it over to my machine shop. Getting a 91mm turbo... have a 1500hp built powerglide, and its a 4 link spooled 8.8" rear, full cage, parachute, wheelie bars etc.... going into a Mazda RX-7. Trying to run high 7's and keep it under 3000lbs.

Is the LSA Block a stock block, or has it been sleeved?
Is a spooled / locked rear legal for this car?

Cheers

 

[Rubber Duck]

Just found out from the machine shop that the valves are stuck in the guides (only 9K miles on them supposedly).... seller said they may have sat in his cleaning vat/tank too long and not properly hosed off/dried afterwards (not happy). I've never had that happen with any set of heads.... so I need valves now anyway.

-good grief-
No one with any experience, or who gives a 'Damn', would attempt to clean heads without taking them apart. . .

 

[gnx7]

All valid points Rubber Duck. I'm not going with Ti valves due to cost. This is toy. Gromm's was sold to a new owner a couple of years ago. They now have an engine dyno and CNC machine which Bob never invested in. The block is stock and not sleeved. The rear is a 35 spline spool. I'm not trying to meet any rules... just trying to run 7's on a budget build and play around a bit at private track days. If I wanted to super fast I would do a BBC turbo setup.... but I have all this stuff at my shop... so I would rather use it as I've had great luck in the past.

I made 1200rwhp on a stock LS9 block with $100 LS3 crankshaft, Compstar rods, shelf Wiseco pistons, MAST LS3 heads for 3 years never losing a head gasket plus spinning it to 7500rpm+ without issues on $2/gal pump e85 so the block isn't a concern right now. They are basically the same block aside from billet main caps and 12mm bolts for the heads. Just asking about valves for now (brand/model/part # and experience with aftermarket valves). I have a fully built LS9 if this goes kaboom with Katech heads as my back up motor.

 

[Rubber Duck]

All valid points Rubber Duck. I'm not going with Ti valves due to cost. This is toy. Gromm's was sold to a new owner a couple of years ago. They now have an engine dyno and CNC machine which Bob never invested in. The block is stock and not sleeved. The rear is a 35 spline spool. I'm not trying to meet any rules... just trying to run 7's on a budget build and play around a bit at private track days. If I wanted to super fast I would do a BBC turbo setup.... but I have all this stuff at my shop... so I would rather use it as I've had great luck in the past.

I made 1200rwhp on a stock LS9 block with $100 LS3 crankshaft, Compstar rods, shelf Wiseco pistons, MAST LS3 heads for 3 years never losing a head gasket plus spinning it to 7500rpm+ without issues on $2/gal pump e85 so the block isn't a concern right now. They are basically the same block aside from billet main caps and 12mm bolts for the heads. Just asking about valves for now (brand/model/part # and experience with aftermarket valves). I have a fully built LS9 if this goes kaboom with Katech heads as my back up motor.

And the best of luck to you, Sir. . . .

 

[gnx7]

I ended up doing LS3 lightweight valves and LY6 Inconnel exhaust valves.

The exhaust valves were only $25/each from Summit which for Inconnel is a deal

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12612427

 

[Lt1z]

I ended up doing LS3 lightweight valves and LY6 Inconnel exhaust valves.

The exhaust valves were only $25/each from Summit which for Inconnel is a deal

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12612427

Yep, those LY6 valves are dirt cheap