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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been running a Fasterproms Underhood Tank, Varimax Pump, Weapon X Track Attack, with ZL1 Lid.
The ZL1 Lid had -10 bungs with couplers connecting to factory metal lines and factory size Heat Exchanger hoses.
This is the way that I have driven forever and my cruising IAT2's were always about 15 degrees above ambient. At the race track I would be at about 100 degrees before the pass and hit the traps at ~132. Then by the time I get my slip I'm back down to 90. My worst was leaving at maybe 115 end ending at 142. I only have a 2.45 pulley so as of now I'm sure it churns less heat that most at 13.8lbs of boost.

I decided to delete the metal lines to clean things up with 3/4 hose but had it everywhere and I was lazy and had lots of 90 degree fittings to make it all connect to the pump and Heat Exchanger. Still the temps where about the same and I was completely fine with this setup.

Then by luck I was able to get a Vadder Destroyer Heat Exchanger. This system was a complete kit install so I finally didn't have to piece together my own hoses and make fittings like I did to get my Track Attack connected. My system was now complete -12 not just at the lid to make it look good under the hood but also at each port of the HX itself. Makes everything super easy to connect.

20180223_153946.jpg First picture is the initial setup 20180225_182318.jpg 2nd is the Vadder Kit. 3rd picture just shows how it is -12 all the way through. 20180225_182246.jpg What was most striking to me is that on my home chop shop method I had a crazy 236" of hose and coupler travel before the water made 1 cycle. With the Vadder kit is was a mere 136" of travel. Now does this make a difference in cooling? I'm not sure but it definitely makes the under hood look far less sloppy. 20180224_141128.jpg The 4th picture shows what the Track Attack system is plumbed like out of the car. 20180224_160309.jpg The 5th shows the Vadder routing minus the ice box to pump line.

So now to the new results. Cruising I am only 5-8 degrees from ambient which I can tell its an all the time driving thing vs just making assumptions on one drive. Recovery time is very good driving but can't really give a % of time difference vs the Track Attack. The bottom line is the kit looks great and performs so you can't go wrong. For the ease of only routing lines once and not changing a system 4 times like I did. If someone is just starting out just get the all in one Vadder Kit vs installing a different HX and then sourcing the hoses and fittings yourself. Whenever I can go to the track again I can better compare my before and after track temps but I did want to provide the info I currently have.
 

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Thanks for the review.

My kit is on the way. At first glance it seems expensive versus the other options but considering it includes all of the fittings and hoses, it's a solid deal. Plus it looks badass installed. Always a plus.
 

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Good info! Looking forward to seeing more data. I was thinking I would go with a TA but this sounds like a better option.
 

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I definitely like the complete kit idea.
 

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While the Vadder kit seems to work very well and look great, be aware that it's not quite a plug n' play unit like the Track Attack is.

Vadder does have very good step by step instructions which outline the minor modifications that need to be made in order to get everything to fit.
The price appears high at first, but you have to factor in that you get 2 heat exchangers, as well as all the lines and 12AN fittings in an engineered system.

Having said that, I'm installing a Track Attack and a wide Mustang Saleen low mount HX in front of it. Hopefully this dual HX setup will work well.
By the time I'm done with it all though, I'll probably have close to the same $$$ into it as what the Vadder kit costs.

Had I to do over again, I'd probably go the Vadder route....
 

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I run the Vadder setup his second gen ones. They keep the cruise temps around 10-15 degrees higher than ambient that was with a 8.6/2.4 combo,ZR1 pump, Norcal underhood,ZL1 lid and all -12 lines. on a hard 1/4 mile run temps would go up 50 degrees but cool down within 45 sec to where they were fast recovery!
 

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I run the Vadder setup his second gen ones. They keep the cruise temps around 10-15 degrees higher than ambient that was with a 8.6/2.4 combo,ZR1 pump, Norcal underhood,ZL1 lid and all -12 lines. on a hard 1/4 mile run temps would go up 50 degrees but cool down within 45 sec to where they were fast recovery!
Very similar setup to what I'll be doing with the 2.4/8.6, ZR1 pump and 3/4"/-12 lines. I'm planning on making twin front mount expansion tanks (1.7 gallon passenger side, 2 gallon driver's side), but no provision for ice.
Hoping that'll keep temps somewhat reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes I moved the sensor and now the Aeroforce reads a temp different from the EXT temp in the radio. Not sure which one I moved but there is usually a 3 degree difference between the 2.
 
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I definitely like the complete kit idea.
Mine is sitting in my garage waiting to be put on. Each morning I go down and see it hoping magical garage elves have installed it overnight along with my BMP splitter. Dimi is awesome to talk to and deal with as well. The system just works. Yes the interchiller gets it cooler but this is the best passive system for my daily and as many have mentioned can it look any more badass than his kit? nope.
 

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I love my Vadder. I've been running it for just over a year. It's a long install, but easy and it's all there. And I got the black coated finish so you can't see it behind my grill.... PERFECT! No one suspects a thing....... unless you listen to the car start, LOL.
 

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Very similar setup to what I'll be doing with the 2.4/8.6, ZR1 pump and 3/4"/-12 lines. I'm planning on making twin front mount expansion tanks (1.7 gallon passenger side, 2 gallon driver's side), but no provision for ice.
Hoping that'll keep temps somewhat reasonable.
The tank(s) without ice will not help much if any in a street car. I just pulled mine out and temps are the same if not a tad lower

Vadder makes good stuff, some people forget to move the iat and tricks them to thinking its closer to ambient than it really is
The IAT sensor is in the MAF.
 
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Lol yeah said ambient sensor also, must of been half asleep
Yeah seen that just wasn't sure which one you were going with moving lol.
 

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So is there a "best choice" or recommendation fornan Arizona car.......a driver
......with the hot as hell temps out here?

Which do you guys suggest for me?
 

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So is there a "best choice" or recommendation fornan Arizona car.......a driver
......with the hot as hell temps out here?

Which do you guys suggest for me?
It's a bigger PITA, but honestly down south I would go Interchiller right out the gate. I have the TA (part of why I bought it over the Vadder is the interchiller will tie in easier), ZL1 lid, Varimax, 1" lines, etc and still plan on doing the interchiller now that they have a revamped system that switches to the HX under load. on a 85* last week, temps floated around 110* (stock last year, same conditions was 130* cruising) so I doubt I'll have any problems going forward. That said, if I can cruise with it IAT2 being 60*, then all the better IMO.

Just my two cents.
 
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