why cant you take the car back and then bring it in when the tech is scheduled for inspection?
V2 Front End Noise When Cold - Need forum users help please
Need forum users help please so bear with me and have a quick read...
I have a GM Preferred Platinum Plus warranty. The company who took over this warranty has denied the findings of my dealer tech to replace strut caps and both front control arms to address the metal noise over bumps when it gets cold (common on V2s). Others here have had replacements under their warranty. The warranty company approved the cheap strut caps but not the control arms. Not surprisingly, the issue remained. With car in the shop over a week and a half now they keep pushing their required inspector dates back again and again because apparently their inspection company doesn't have staff and they won't approve without an inspection (despite the dealer's previous findings). At this point I have no alternative (other than letting my car sit until the end of time while not having a loaner) than to pursue a small claims case. I have already tried calling the warranty company and they said it's on hold until an inspector arrives (even when they have now no showed and refuse to commit to a date). There is no escalation process according to them.
Where I need help is if anyone here has had this issue and had the control arms replaced under warranty as a result, I'd REALLY appreciate if you could forward me a copy of your service paperwork. I am hoping this, along with the technician's findings, will be valuable if I have to pursue a small claims case for the cost of repairs out of pocket. I HATE that it has come to this but I have no alternative other than to eat the cost myself or hold them accountable for a product I paid for and clearly the repair items are explicitly covered under. It's to the point I'm done with all extended warranties and GM products for life. I bought the supposed best available to avoid this exact scenario. Sorry for venting and thank you in advance for anyone who might be able to assist. You can PM me with any questions or if you're able to send the repair docs. Sigh.
I have a GM Preferred Platinum Plus warranty. The company who took over this warranty has denied the findings of my dealer tech to replace strut caps and both front control arms to address the metal noise over bumps when it gets cold (common on V2s). Others here have had replacements under their warranty. The warranty company approved the cheap strut caps but not the control arms. Not surprisingly, the issue remained. With car in the shop over a week and a half now they keep pushing their required inspector dates back again and again because apparently their inspection company doesn't have staff and they won't approve without an inspection (despite the dealer's previous findings). At this point I have no alternative (other than letting my car sit until the end of time while not having a loaner) than to pursue a small claims case. I have already tried calling the warranty company and they said it's on hold until an inspector arrives (even when they have now no showed and refuse to commit to a date). There is no escalation process according to them.
Where I need help is if anyone here has had this issue and had the control arms replaced under warranty as a result, I'd REALLY appreciate if you could forward me a copy of your service paperwork. I am hoping this, along with the technician's findings, will be valuable if I have to pursue a small claims case for the cost of repairs out of pocket. I HATE that it has come to this but I have no alternative other than to eat the cost myself or hold them accountable for a product I paid for and clearly the repair items are explicitly covered under. It's to the point I'm done with all extended warranties and GM products for life. I bought the supposed best available to avoid this exact scenario. Sorry for venting and thank you in advance for anyone who might be able to assist. You can PM me with any questions or if you're able to send the repair docs. Sigh.
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My warranty expired in the time between the original claim/diagnosis and now. I've been told if I take it before reinspection the claim will be closed and a new one will not open because the warranty is now expired. The warranty company is literally doing everything they can to deny the claim or get me to act in a manner that allows them a BS excuse to close the claim (aka take my vehicle home) then time out the warranty.
Extended warranties are made to sell. They don't want to fix any problems.
There comes a time to cut your losses.
Do some math on this; even IF the warranty (insurance) company agreed to pay, how much are your associated costs to complete the repair? is there a deductible? a co-pay? a service fee? a storage fee?
Now, add up your less-defined costs, loss of use, headache/tension/frustration/ulcers/ anger.,,,
Next consider this factoid: The noise is MOST LIKELY caused by the upper control arm bushings ( i have a video) and simply replacing the entire upper control arms is the best fix. The work is surprisingly easy for a D-I-Y guy but importantly if you are NOT that guy, the fact remains that a regular shop NOT a dealer... can do the job a lot cheaper than you'd guess. Rock Auto has the upper control arms typically for $55 each (includes bushings and ball joints).
You could likely get all of this angst off of your plate for $250 at a shop. Less than a buck-fifty at a buddy's place.
Move past this, start lovin your car again!
Do some math on this; even IF the warranty (insurance) company agreed to pay, how much are your associated costs to complete the repair? is there a deductible? a co-pay? a service fee? a storage fee?
Now, add up your less-defined costs, loss of use, headache/tension/frustration/ulcers/ anger.,,,
Next consider this factoid: The noise is MOST LIKELY caused by the upper control arm bushings ( i have a video) and simply replacing the entire upper control arms is the best fix. The work is surprisingly easy for a D-I-Y guy but importantly if you are NOT that guy, the fact remains that a regular shop NOT a dealer... can do the job a lot cheaper than you'd guess. Rock Auto has the upper control arms typically for $55 each (includes bushings and ball joints).
You could likely get all of this angst off of your plate for $250 at a shop. Less than a buck-fifty at a buddy's place.
Move past this, start lovin your car again!
Appreciate the advice. The deductible is already met with the other issues from this claim so that's not a factor but a court filing fee would be (as would the time/stress/etc). Sadly, working on cars is not a skillset I ever managed to acquire. Not that I'd be incapable, just not experienced so this would definitely be left to professionals. Good to know about the parts, dealer claimed one side was a no eta part when they looked it up. I was thinking in the thousands for the repair. Shops around here wanted $600-$750+ just to replace a couple rear shocks in my wife's vehicle which was laughable. (It's not a high end or super fancy suspension.) Guess my stress would be less if I had a good small shop mechanic locally (and I have tried MANY times to find one).
One of my triggers are scumbag companies that don't stand behind their products. I get when people abuse stuff or try to game the system. I'm not one of those people. Just asking for what's right and what I paid for. I HATE that these crap companies get to do this junk with no repercussions.
I'd still appreciate any paperwork if anyone has any just to keep my options open but I will also keep on trying to find a decent local mechanic and get estimates there as well. So frustrating.
One of my triggers are scumbag companies that don't stand behind their products. I get when people abuse stuff or try to game the system. I'm not one of those people. Just asking for what's right and what I paid for. I HATE that these crap companies get to do this junk with no repercussions.
I'd still appreciate any paperwork if anyone has any just to keep my options open but I will also keep on trying to find a decent local mechanic and get estimates there as well. So frustrating.
I just checked my paperwork and the dealer suggested the lower control arms be replaced, not the upper. Ugh.
I've been assuming that the noise you have is similar to a cold-weather-related noise over speed bumps/driveways that some call a groan and that I called a "scronk".I just checked my paperwork and the dealer suggested the lower control arms be replaced, not the upper. Ugh.
In MY case, it was the UCA bushings. Others have pointed to the sway bar bushings. Maybe your dealer guy saw definitive proof, I don't know. Watch this little video and see if the sound is at all familiar. Note that the failure can be seen where the rubber in the bushing is sliding over the inner steel tube that is in the center of the bushing. That rubber is supposed to be BONDED TO that steel tube, NOT separated and sliding over it.
It's exactly that issue and I gave that exact description to the dealer but just now noticed they said lower arms and not upper. (When I first told them I just said control arms and wasn't specific I guess.) I just sent them a request to inspect the upper arm bushings as well. It's been going on for a couple to three years but they could never reproduce because it wasn't cold enough on the days I had it in until this year.
Just FYI: the work involved to replicate what I did in the video is really simple: 1.) remove the front wheel 2.) take the nut off of the upper ball joint 3.) move the UCA as done in the video.It's exactly that issue and I gave that exact description to the dealer but just now noticed they said lower arms and not upper. (When I first told them I just said control arms and wasn't specific I guess.) I just sent them a request to inspect the upper arm bushings as well. It's been going on for a couple to three years but they could never reproduce because it wasn't cold enough on the days I had it in until this year.
That's it.
No spring compressor or special tools required.
EDIT TO ADD: it could be a useful point to note that a VISUAL inspection that finds the rubber de-bonded should be sufficient to prove it needs replacement... withOUT needing it to make a sound or wait for weather, etc.
Hell, just show 'em the video
Thank you. I'm guessing since the factory ones have them bonded to the actual control arm there's no replacement of just the bushings available?
No, the bushings ARE available separately and they are not 'bonded' to the control arms, they are pressed in. They ARE replaceable... but (especially if you are paying a shop to do it) makes little sense to do as it is a time-consuming, special tool-requiring pain in the ass. Simply removing and installing replacement UCAs saves a lot of time AND it includes a new, installed upper ball joint as a bonus.Thank you. I'm guessing since the factory ones have them bonded to the actual control arm there's no replacement of just the bushings available?
There are only two situations where individually replacing the bushings would make sense:
A.) you are looking to save every possible penny AND doing the work yourself and you have the tools required (a press, typically)
OR
B.) you want to install upgraded or specialty aftermarket bushings (the replacement UCAs only come with stock type bushings)
C.) OK....there IS a third reason...
You hate yourself and are driven to masochism through self-loathing and you crave the pain. If so, bushing replacement seems cathartic for some.
HAHAHAHAHAAHA noted. Again, thank you for the info!
Try to find a good small business alignment guy. Ask your body shop buddies, if you have any, who they use. these guys tend to be good mechanics for the exact type of work you need.
or you can continue to have your car hostage at a dealer and hope it doesnt get damaged or vandalized while its there.
or you can continue to have your car hostage at a dealer and hope it doesnt get damaged or vandalized while its there.
any special washers or nuts that need to be changed? thinking of just swapping mine out and hoping my noise goes away. my car has like 45k miles anyhowJust FYI: the work involved to replicate what I did in the video is really simple: 1.) remove the front wheel 2.) take the nut off of the upper ball joint 3.) move the UCA as done in the video.
That's it.
No spring compressor or special tools required.
EDIT TO ADD: it could be a useful point to note that a VISUAL inspection that finds the rubber de-bonded should be sufficient to prove it needs replacement... withOUT needing it to make a sound or wait for weather, etc.
Hell, just show 'em the video
Does this issue cause the steering to feel like the wheels are skipping? Or is that another issue? My Coupe has some sort of weird front end issue and it sounds like the video but more dramatic.
No, no drivability issues that I've noticed, just the horrible grind/crunch/metal eating metal noise when it's cold and the suspension travels a bit.
Nope, it’s a really simple swap, though more involved than simply looking at them, it still isn’t much.any special washers or nuts that need to be changed? thinking of just swapping mine out and hoping my noise goes away. my car has like 45k miles anyhow
1. open hood, remove strut brace
2. disconnect magride connectors from struts (no tools, just squeeze the spring wire retainer and lift)
3. raise and support car on appropriate jackstands
4. remove front wheel(s)
5. support lower control arm with a jack under the ball joint
6. pop the ride height sensor link off of the upper control arm
7. remove bolts from bottom of strut to LCA
8. disconnect the brake hose support bracket from the LCA (do NOT disconnect brake hose fittings ) (remove ABS sensor wire retainer, avoid strain on this wire.)
9. remove caliper bolts, remove caliper from knuckle and support caliper with a bungee or wire out of the way (don't let it hang by its hose)
10. remove nut from upper ball joint (it has a hole for an Allen wrench to hold the stud), remove ball joint front steering knuckle (may need to use a hammer, gently)
11. lower jack to relax LCA away from strut. (you might want to disconnect the sway bar link but not mandatory) (The spring is captive, no compressor needed unless disassembling the strut from the upper bracket. No need to do this for UCA job)
12. remove the remaining three large bolts (under hood) holding the strut assembly to the strut tower (Support strut while removing last bolt) Move assembly to a bench or work table
13. remove the two bolts that go through the bushings, remove/replace UCAs.
Essentially reverse procedure for install. Note that nothing that is "adjustable" has been removed so theoretically there should be no alignment change...however, it might be a good idea to have alignment checked.
I do not know the torque specs for all of these fasteners, you will need to source that info elsewhere.
There ya go... a write up.
#1 be SAFE
Did the dealership use chassis ears to diagnose the noise? Usually for something like this they'll pin microphones to certain points and listen for where the noise comes from.
considering my dealer couldn’t be bothered to put a stethoscope on a pulley I doubt they would bother with chassis ears.
the Achilles heel of Cadillac is the service departments tend to not be that great.
service advisors and their mechanics really don’t seem to take advice and criticisms well either
the Achilles heel of Cadillac is the service departments tend to not be that great.
service advisors and their mechanics really don’t seem to take advice and criticisms well either
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