10
Alright, so here is a run-down of how I installed the Pinnacle Performance coolant reservoir tank. There are many ways to do it, but this is what I wound up with.
NOTE: My coolant flow is NOT ideal, as I have the coolant getting hot from the lid, then dumping into the tank before going through the heat exchanger. In a perfect world, we would have the lid feed the heat exchanger directly for maximum heat dissipation, and for cooler reservoir temperatures. However I settled on hose routing in this manner for a few reasons:
#1: It allowed an easier installation of the Stewart EMP pump, and a more desirable pump orientation.
#2: The improved pump orientation allowed me to directly "gravity feed" the pump from the reservoir using 1" lines AND avoid any unnecessary loops in routing the hose that contribute to air locking the pump, etc. I could have avoided the use of any fittings at all but chose to use the single 90* elbow to reduce the risk of kinking.
#3: Being able to use 1" ID lines meant no restrictive 1"-to-3/4" reducers, which made it very easy to route the hose behind the headlight, again reducing the risk of air locking the pump and generally made installation MUCH easier than the last time I did this.
#4: The system is still relatively small, and has a high circulation rate thanks to the `roided out Stewart, so I'm not too concerned about ideal efficiency when I can avoid the frustration of running several more feet of hose under the hood!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Installation:
Step 1: Again, throw out the included mounting hardware. Although it was sized correctly for the smaller hole, and would technically work - no locking nuts or lock washers pretty much guarantees they will loosen up and fall out over time IMHO. I had an M10 x 1.25mm bolt with nylon lock nut in the parts bin that I used for the larger diameter hole to carry the bulk of the stress; and I had a 5/16" self-tapping sheet metal screw that worked perfectly for the smaller hole (see next photo) just for fun.
![]()
Step 2: Trim the ECM bracket and cowl flanges at the firewall to allow the tank to sit flush (images pillaged from NorCal). I covered up the bolts at the firewall with duct tape to reduce the risk of noise / vibration.
![]()
![]()
Step 3: Test fit your tank and score the flange for drilling - remembering that it needs to be flush with the firewall to make sure you have room to reinstall the aluminum cross member. I clearanced the welds on the back surface of my crossmember to aid in making space.
![]()
Step 4: Drill out the mounting holes. The bracket we're mounting to under the hood has two differently sized holes in it. It was too cramped for me to even think about drilling out the second hole, so I improved as noted in post #1.
![]()
Step 5: Realize that in spite of your careful marking of the flange and using a center punch to get the drill bit started, shit still doesn't line up. Pull the tank BACK out, and elongate the second hole to fit!
![]()
Step 6: Right about now is when you realize it's really fucking tight in there (inappropriate joke omitted here), and you start wondering how the flying fuck you're going to feed two small bolts in from the bottom with your fingers - and how many times are you going to drop the fucking things before you try something else? Thankfully, we have magnetic wands!
![]()
Step 7: Now that the tank is mounted, you can run coolant lines. I wanted to use 1" ID hose to feed the pump (the Stewart has 1" ports), however if you are using a Varimax or similar you will want to stay with 3/4" ID hose and suitable fittings throughout.
Most heat exchangers, such as the Track Attack and most low-mounts also continue to utilize 3/4" barb fittings, which mate up well to all other components of the intercooler system, including the factory T pressure-relief fitting and ZL1 lids. Generally speaking, ONLY people who are running the Stewart EMP need to worry about 1" ID hose and/or adapters.
I like to keep the factory "T" fitting for pressure relief - I've had several instances where this has come in handy, versus the alternative of either rupturing an aluminum piece or blowing off a hose and spraying coolant everywhere!
As I mentioned at the top of this post, my hose routing is not technically ideal (you want the hot fluid from the lid / brick to run directly to the heat exchanger for maximum efficiency), I felt this routing was significantly easier and more beneficial overall:
![]()
![]()
Step 8: Reinstall the aluminum cross-member. You may need to grind down the welds on the rear of the cross member to get everything lined up properly. Get those bolts down to GNT specs (good and tight); although the factory torque specs are technically 83 ft-lbs.
Add coolant: either distilled water for you warmer climates or an appropriate amount of antifreeze for "normal" people.
All finished up:
![]()
NOTE: My coolant flow is NOT ideal, as I have the coolant getting hot from the lid, then dumping into the tank before going through the heat exchanger. In a perfect world, we would have the lid feed the heat exchanger directly for maximum heat dissipation, and for cooler reservoir temperatures. However I settled on hose routing in this manner for a few reasons:
#1: It allowed an easier installation of the Stewart EMP pump, and a more desirable pump orientation.
#2: The improved pump orientation allowed me to directly "gravity feed" the pump from the reservoir using 1" lines AND avoid any unnecessary loops in routing the hose that contribute to air locking the pump, etc. I could have avoided the use of any fittings at all but chose to use the single 90* elbow to reduce the risk of kinking.
#3: Being able to use 1" ID lines meant no restrictive 1"-to-3/4" reducers, which made it very easy to route the hose behind the headlight, again reducing the risk of air locking the pump and generally made installation MUCH easier than the last time I did this.
#4: The system is still relatively small, and has a high circulation rate thanks to the `roided out Stewart, so I'm not too concerned about ideal efficiency when I can avoid the frustration of running several more feet of hose under the hood!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Installation:
Step 1: Again, throw out the included mounting hardware. Although it was sized correctly for the smaller hole, and would technically work - no locking nuts or lock washers pretty much guarantees they will loosen up and fall out over time IMHO. I had an M10 x 1.25mm bolt with nylon lock nut in the parts bin that I used for the larger diameter hole to carry the bulk of the stress; and I had a 5/16" self-tapping sheet metal screw that worked perfectly for the smaller hole (see next photo) just for fun.
Step 2: Trim the ECM bracket and cowl flanges at the firewall to allow the tank to sit flush (images pillaged from NorCal). I covered up the bolts at the firewall with duct tape to reduce the risk of noise / vibration.
Step 3: Test fit your tank and score the flange for drilling - remembering that it needs to be flush with the firewall to make sure you have room to reinstall the aluminum cross member. I clearanced the welds on the back surface of my crossmember to aid in making space.
Step 4: Drill out the mounting holes. The bracket we're mounting to under the hood has two differently sized holes in it. It was too cramped for me to even think about drilling out the second hole, so I improved as noted in post #1.
Step 5: Realize that in spite of your careful marking of the flange and using a center punch to get the drill bit started, shit still doesn't line up. Pull the tank BACK out, and elongate the second hole to fit!
Step 6: Right about now is when you realize it's really fucking tight in there (inappropriate joke omitted here), and you start wondering how the flying fuck you're going to feed two small bolts in from the bottom with your fingers - and how many times are you going to drop the fucking things before you try something else? Thankfully, we have magnetic wands!
Step 7: Now that the tank is mounted, you can run coolant lines. I wanted to use 1" ID hose to feed the pump (the Stewart has 1" ports), however if you are using a Varimax or similar you will want to stay with 3/4" ID hose and suitable fittings throughout.
Most heat exchangers, such as the Track Attack and most low-mounts also continue to utilize 3/4" barb fittings, which mate up well to all other components of the intercooler system, including the factory T pressure-relief fitting and ZL1 lids. Generally speaking, ONLY people who are running the Stewart EMP need to worry about 1" ID hose and/or adapters.
I like to keep the factory "T" fitting for pressure relief - I've had several instances where this has come in handy, versus the alternative of either rupturing an aluminum piece or blowing off a hose and spraying coolant everywhere!
As I mentioned at the top of this post, my hose routing is not technically ideal (you want the hot fluid from the lid / brick to run directly to the heat exchanger for maximum efficiency), I felt this routing was significantly easier and more beneficial overall:
Step 8: Reinstall the aluminum cross-member. You may need to grind down the welds on the rear of the cross member to get everything lined up properly. Get those bolts down to GNT specs (good and tight); although the factory torque specs are technically 83 ft-lbs.
Add coolant: either distilled water for you warmer climates or an appropriate amount of antifreeze for "normal" people.
All finished up:
