Is there any way to run the IC pump and fan with the engine off?
Trunk tank and drag racing help needed
Hey guys got a quick question maybe some of you track (drag racing) guys can help us with.
When drag racing at local track it is around 40 mins or so between runs. So have bonnet up and pushing car in staging lanes to try keep temps down.
My whole Hx cooling setup i think is pretty good, and on the street my IAT's are good.
But basics are 4 gallon trunk tank with emp pump and upgraded HX. All lines upgraded.
Problem is when cars of all the heat from the engine is cooking to top of motor and heat soaking brick in lid.
I can run the pump for a bit while in staging lanes it helps a little bit but emp drawing 25a i cant run for 2 long.
Then what happens is the trunk tank gets that hot, that when you touch the side of it can feel its warm.
I have found if i freeze water bottles and some ice bricks (the type you can put in your esky lunch box) I can get 3 or so runs before they are pretty much melted.
I dont want to ice as i already had one brick fail and everyone tells me if you ice must flush system after woods and go back to distilled water.
What are you guys doing at the track to keep the iats down (heatsoak) between runs?
Any help will be appreciated
Thanks
When drag racing at local track it is around 40 mins or so between runs. So have bonnet up and pushing car in staging lanes to try keep temps down.
My whole Hx cooling setup i think is pretty good, and on the street my IAT's are good.
But basics are 4 gallon trunk tank with emp pump and upgraded HX. All lines upgraded.
Problem is when cars of all the heat from the engine is cooking to top of motor and heat soaking brick in lid.
I can run the pump for a bit while in staging lanes it helps a little bit but emp drawing 25a i cant run for 2 long.
Then what happens is the trunk tank gets that hot, that when you touch the side of it can feel its warm.
I have found if i freeze water bottles and some ice bricks (the type you can put in your esky lunch box) I can get 3 or so runs before they are pretty much melted.
I dont want to ice as i already had one brick fail and everyone tells me if you ice must flush system after woods and go back to distilled water.
What are you guys doing at the track to keep the iats down (heatsoak) between runs?
Any help will be appreciated
Thanks
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Yeah i can do that helps a little but emp draws 25a
and one engine radiator cooling fan draws about 15a
So will drain battery quick
and one engine radiator cooling fan draws about 15a
So will drain battery quick
Are you sure about those amp draw numbers? Thats a lot of juice.
Check out this link this is pump i have
Stewart EMP High Volume Intercooler Pump 25 Amp
Check out the deal on Stewart EMP High Volume Intercooler Pump 25 Amp at Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
www.lingenfelter.com
Well known pump and current draw.
There’s a 24V version that will pull less amps
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There’s a 24V version that will pull less amps
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The very fact that you have a switch that could prevent the pump running during a run... is worrying as it can lead to VERY expensive consequences.
AMHIK
AMHIK
I run an override switch, which triggers the EMP and radiator fan for when car is off, for added cooling in staging lanes if needed.The very fact that you have a switch that could prevent the pump running during a run... is worrying as it can lead to VERY expensive consequences.
AMHIK
Once ignition is on, the EMP fires up regardless.
My setup is same as cav454 with overide switch
Once ignition is on all runs as normal
Once ignition is on all runs as normal
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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