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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, so I am going to try and provide as much detail as possible here and see if there is a reasonable answer to explain the issues that I have incurred.

So I took a few trim pieces off of the car the other day to have them painted, and really did not want to drive it while I had them off. I took the opportunity to take a look at a few things that I had been curious about as I am not the original owner of the car. I have the dyno sheet in the glove box showing that the car had dyno'd at 574rwhp. I have been digging to see what all had been done to get there, as well as make sure all supporting modifications have been made. While the car was down I wanted to make sure that the brick had been reinforced, and the injectors had been upgraded.

While investigating, I pulled the lid, blower, brick off of the lid, and injectors from the blower. I've got another thread going where i received help identifying the injectors. I believe they are 95lb injectors but I will be getting and HP Tuner to help confirm. While pulling everything apart I broke a fitting, the clip on the back of the bypass valve, and bent the intake gaskets. I replaced the fitting, the gaskets, and superglued the clip back onto the bypass valve while adding a zip tie when reinstalling. The only part I had any uncertainty about while putting everything back together was whether or not one of the injectors seated properly into the blower.

Now for the issue, or issues. The main, and most obvious thing that I have noticed is that at WOT the car cuts out tremendously at around 120MPH. I have also noticed that in neutral the car sometimes spikes from around 600 to 8 or 900 RPM. It may be my paranoia, but I also think that the car is lagging with every gear that I shift into.

As stated above, I do not have a tuner, but I do work at a diesel mechanic shop and was able to borrow one of our guy's scan tool, as well as a little expertise from him. I've attached a pic or two of the screen on the scan tool while the car was at idle. My friend's best guess was a vacuum link or improper tuning causing the car to run rich. I have added picture of the vacuum lines as well. I am almost certain that they are the same as they were when I removed them. As far as the car running rich, I believe it had been running that way before I ever performed any of the work stated above.

I do appreciate any help that I can get from you all here. If you have any questions for me, or if there is any pertinent information I may have left out please let me know.
 

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Superglue and a ziptie sound kind of shaky to me. I use Superglue for a lot of shit, and I wouldn't use it to glue a fitting back together on a part attached to an engine. I'd go and inspect that fix to see if it's actually held together...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It held great, the only thing that was broke is the clip on the backside where it slides back onto the mounting bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I just went for a ride and took a video of the cluster. Unfortunately I am unable to load it here so that you could see where once you get to a certain speed and level of boost the car starts to cut out and the boost starts to drop
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It ran rich beforehand, but I've never had the cutting out under load like this. I'd say maybe a month before this I took it up to 185 without any issues or hesitation
 

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It ran rich beforehand, but I've never had the cutting out under load like this. I'd say maybe a month before this I took it up to 185 without any issues or hesitation
Ignore the rich AFR for now until you find the boost cutting out. Did you disconnect and reconnect the bypass valve? If so, I would start there and adjust it properly. Also, make sure the connector on the bypass valve solenoid is seated properly and hear it click in.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did not remove the bypass valve from the blower, but i can check to see if it is out of adjustment. I believe I have run across a couple of How-To's on here. As for the solenoid, I did disconnect this and will check the connector on it today. One thing I have noticed is that the foamy is missing from the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After checking the adjustment on the bypass valve, I noticed a shiny spot on the bracket it mounts to, presumably where it may have been bumped out of adjustment. I loosened the set screws, adjusted back into place, and have had the exact same result. I ran it yesterday and it cut out again after reaching high boost. This morning when leaving the house I had the issue again with the car falling flat on its face at 10-15mph and then jolting forward as if it had just gained power again.
 

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Did you get HP Tuners yet? Without a log it will be hard for anyone to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You guys are going to make my buy a tuner aren't you. I don't know why I've put it off so long but I may go ahead and get one coming today
 

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We're not making you, but it is hard to help without knowing what is going on with data to show it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know, I am kidding. I definitely understand the importance of a proper tune and know that it would have numerous benefits to have an hptuner on hand.
I am going to reach out to Matt today from GP and try to get one on the way
 

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Next, do you have a wideband? Without one you are guessing at WOT.
 
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