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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I need to drop the cradle on my 2011 CTS-V coupe to get the blown motor out. Car has a twin turbo setup so dropping the cradle will be the best option. Are there any details out there that cover the disassembly? Thanks.
 

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If you are taking the transmission out with the engine you remove the transmission mount bolts and the six subframe bolts and the six bolts that hold the struts in place and the brace on top. Disconnect the wiring and grounds and hoses and remove the compressor and wire it over to the side or you get to discharge the air conditioning. Remove the power steering pump and move it over as well and the reservoir and wire it off to the side too. Remove the brake hoses from the frame so the lines will just dangle. Cap them off or you get lots of brake fluid all over the place. Remember the ABS/Traction module is mounted to the frame too. It is easier to remove the radiator to do make it easier. If you are taking the transmission out with the engine you get to remove the exhaust and the heat shielding and the driveshaft before you remove the subframe. Be sure to disconnect the wiring and cooler lines at the radiator and shift linkage on the transmission too. Lots of fun but it is much easier taking it out as a unit rather than doing the removal from the top. The intercooler pump has to be disconnected too. Anyway, that is what I remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you are taking the transmission out with the engine you remove the transmission mount bolts and the six subframe bolts and the six bolts that hold the struts in place and the brace on top. Disconnect the wiring and grounds and hoses and remove the compressor and wire it over to the side or you get to discharge the air conditioning. Remove the power steering pump and move it over as well and the reservoir and wire it off to the side too. Remove the brake hoses from the frame so the lines will just dangle. Cap them off or you get lots of brake fluid all over the place. Remember the ABS/Traction module is mounted to the frame too. It is easier to remove the radiator to do make it easier. If you are taking the transmission out with the engine you get to remove the exhaust and the heat shielding and the driveshaft before you remove the subframe. Be sure to disconnect the wiring and cooler lines at the radiator and shift linkage on the transmission too. Lots of fun but it is much easier taking it out as a unit rather than doing the removal from the top. The intercooler pump has to be disconnected too. Anyway, that is what I remember.
Thanks for all the details, I figured since I have a lift it would be easier to drop it out as one assembly. The trans isn’t broke but I’m going to send it to Circle D and have them go through it. I get to deal with all the turbo plumbing to which should be fun.
 

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We need.....

PITCHAS!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you guys pulling things like the radiator or AC condenser? It looks like those can be left in. Are you able move the AC compressor to the and not have to open the system? Where are you disconnecting the brake lines at and did you need to drain the master cylinder first? I’m about halfway through disconnecting everything. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think it is easier out the top. I did it without taking the radiator out, I just femoved the fans. Run a ratchet strap underneath the transmission pan at the front, and that will hold it up. I didn't take the hood off. 👍
Might be easier out the top if I didn’t have twin turbos hanging off the rear of the exhaust manifolds. I’m going to send the trans off to Circle D and have them go over it, no issues with it now but I don’t know the details of what is done to it other than it has a bunch of Sonnax parts in it so I might as well have them beef it up even more. Also getting them to build me a billet converter with a stall but I’m not sure what stall I should go with yet.
 

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Depends on your cam specs. @Lt1z told me with twins and the cam he sent, I needed 3200.
PM me and I will send you the cam specs he ground for my TT build / Circle D 3200 stall.
 

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hoses at caliper as it was easier. if you still have the rubber ones you can clamp them with the plastic clamp pliers. some guys hate this so if you have a way to plug them you could do that too.
 
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