[Spearfishin]

My CTS has twice been on an open trailer with rail tie-downs and I used over the wheel "nets" in the front that were tied down more to the side than fore/aft (only way to get straps out of the fender wells without the straps pulling up against bodywork). In the rear I went through the rims.

I don't like the through the rims, and I can't make the front wheel nets work given the placement of the front anchor points in enclosed trailer. Given that most enclosed trailers have the 4 tie-down points located in about the same spot, can someone share the secret combo of tie down locations that keeps the car in place without hurting something on the car in the process?

Thanks!

 

[Spearfishin]

Fine. I'm strapping to front lower grille and out back I'll use the mufflers. Criss crossed, of course.

First gotta weld a replacement for snapped hinge on ramp/door. A job I'm quickly learning could stand a second set of hands that I just don't have right now.

 

[MrSurly]

Given that most enclosed trailers have the 4 tie-down points located in about the same spot, can someone share the secret combo of tie down locations that keeps the car in place without hurting something on the car in the process?
Thanks!

I think the reason for the crickets is the premise above is false. There's no 'standard placement' of tie downs in the trailer industry. I feel your pain as there's not an easy way to accomplish this unless you add tie-downs in the trailer where you actually can use them.
For what it's worth, don't crisscross!
If adding tie-downs is an option, THIS is the system I prefer to use whether its this Vulcan plate or eztrak or simple D rings without a track. The point is to have an anchor point before/after each tire and importantly, the anchor needs to allow the strap to slide through to a remotely mounted ratchet or boomer that is flat on the floor and can also be angled out to a side. The Advantages (IMHO) this has over lassos on each wheel or long straps on distant points is that this locks down the car from rolling even a little bit (even if there is only ONE attached) AND... each tie down is NOT dependent on any other tie down in order to be secure. Additionally, this set up doesn't care how low the car or how wide the tire. If you have skinnies on front, use a 'net' style strap OR air down the skinny for hauling..

 

[MrSurly]

Fine. I'm strapping to front lower grille and out back I'll use the mufflers. Criss crossed, of course.

ADDING: I'm not a fan of strapping the BODY or FRAME down to the trailer, I'd much rather tie down the unsprung wheels/axles. This puts far less stress on the tie downs, eliminates the all-to-common slacking/ breaking and/or detachment of straps due to suspension bounce. Let the suspension work while you tow, that's what it's supposed to do. Fighting it or binding it down causes unneeded stress all over.

 

[Spearfishin]

Thanks.

That style setup is the long-term plan. For now trying to figure out exactly where the car is going to have to ride in the trailer to get tongue weight reasonable. But I'm ideally loading car in this trailer tomorrow, and I had a hard enough time getting it tied down on my open trailer, I'm really not sure how realistic my options are given the two forward and two aft floor mounted d-rings I've got to work with right now.

 

[MrSurly]

Figure out where it needs to be, roll it forward an extra six inches, arrange the front straps to the front sway bar just outside the cradle 'rails'. don't worry, the sway bar is hella strong and its mounting in the cradle is beyond substantial for this (speaking specifically for the CTSV, not true for other cars). Make sure both front straps are the same length, then go to the rear and do all the ratcheting back there where you have access. Hook to the rear cradle, probably or the LCAs.
Again, this loads the suspension (not my preference), but ya gotta work with what ya got, sometimes.

 

[Spearfishin]

How about 2" strap through the wheels for a one off? That's securing to something unsprung, and I've seen plenty of wreckers/"pros" doing it in my daily travels (I know that doesn't make it 'right'.)

 

[MrSurly]

Clearly, something is better than nothing.
I’m always worried that any given strap will break; and I spend some time trying to allow for that and to consider how it will effect the stability of the load if it happens. This is why I don't crisscross. I will virtually always use five tie-downs, sometimes six. Four in the usual places (each corner) but any extra straps I have will be added to the rear, to prevent the load going forward in the event of sudden braking or impact.
Over the last number of years we hauled my brother’s Superbird on a super nice but borrowed trailer from TX to AMS and to Talladega four times. Because of the borrowed status, we had to deal with existing tie-down provisions. We strapped it excessively and successfully (survived catastrophic blowouts and a fender peel ). The key was use all straps available and clicking every strap at every gas stop. I always shoot for the wheels/axle/LCAs to avoid the suspension bounce effect.

 

[MrSurly]

BTW: the wrecker guys are only trying to keep the car on there for two miles.... what they can "get away with" isn't a great starting place for secure hauling.

 

[Spearfishin]

BTW: the wrecker guys are only trying to keep the car on there for two miles.... what they can "get away with" isn't a great starting place for secure hauling.

Yeah, that's what I caveated it...I know their way doesn't make it the "right way" just because it's a common practice. But I've seen some high end haulers use what look like longer axle straps through the rims on cars.

I think that's where I'm headed (through wheels in the front, unless I can get angle flat enough on your suggested attachment points at sway bar) for this weekend's event and then I'll add some e track or similar in 4' sections under all four wheels for the future.

Trailer is new to me, and I'm actually excited for all the possibilities for customizing it...

 

[jcmgt]

An alternative to the vulcan sytem is MACs tie down. I'm currently setting up a 16" aluminum trailer for my G8. It's a tight fit. I'll be running the versa track and tire block straps on the front with chassis straps or tire block straps on the rear. I'll post up results withing the next 2 weeks.

Hindsight, trailer needs to be minimum of 18'.

 

[Spearfishin]

An alternative to the vulcan sytem is MACs tie down. I'm currently setting up a 16" aluminum trailer for my G8. It's a tight fit. I'll be running the versa track and tire block straps on the front with chassis straps or tire block straps on the rear. I'll post up results withing the next 2 weeks.

Hindsight, trailer needs to be minimum of 18'.

Emailed Mac's a few questions this morning!

 

[Spearfishin]

Made it an hour in rush hour traffic this AM. Tied through rims. Don't love it, but couldn't come up with much better.

Will definitely be installing more permanent/appropriate setup for future usage.

NOW: How the hell am I supposed to get out of the damned thing!? That sucked coming out the window, and I'd ideally not leave the window down...

 

[MrSurly]

1. Remove the rear seat, enter through trunk. Unless you are fat like me.
2. install side door in trailer. This is the approach I would take.

 

[MrSurly]

Hindsight, trailer needs to be minimum of 18'.

Second this, 20' is even MORE better if you might haul other cars occasionally.

 

[Spearfishin]

I was shocked at how small the 24' enclosed felt once I got her loaded in...

 

[RocketSled]

When I bought my wife a two horse 5th wheel trailer with a separate dressing room up front, so she could haul her horse back and forth to Florida over the winters and take her and her friend to competitions while she was there, it came with the requirement that one of the stalls be fitted with tie downs for my motorcycle. I was surprised by how much of the stall the bike took up. I hadn't thought of it as being as big as a horse, but it was. Just not as tall.

 

[jcmgt]

Installed the versa l track. It's the saving grace for stuffing the car on a 16ft trailer. Have front only now as I can wrap around rear suspension. 2nd set of track is on order - it's really nice setup.
Here are images, for and aft of front wheel.

 

[MrSurly]

Very well done! I like the Versa and the Etracks, very nice, indeed.
In my opinion this is the ideal tie-down setup. Even if one (or TWO!) straps should fail, the car is still secure, retained and located securely.

An older trailer that my brother had, was built with an aluminum diamond-plate deck. What we ended up doing was taking the "rack" off of an old tow dolly and bolting it onto the deck of the trailer for the front wheels. Both fronts were then strapped to the rack with the net-style straps and the tow dolly's built-in ratchets. It was pretty slick.