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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to start a new thread for this outside of the group buy as I told TSP I would.

Got everything on and it went about as smoothly as expected

The actual headers were the most straight forward part as they can only fit one way, the x pipe, mid pipe sections can be a pain, really just the first section from headers to X pipe, after that fit absolutely perfect.

-Remove all the engine covers, strut bar brace, coil packs, spark plugs, oil dipstick, and anything else you may have in the way. I unbolted the HX hard lines and the AC hard lines just to be able to move them around.
-Starter was 2 bolts, removed that and let it hang. Steering shaft bolts also needed to be removed and steering shaft removed, again, if its in the way, its gotta go, lol, pretty straight forward.
-Unbolting the old manifolds was cake, they slide right out the bottom no problems and bolting back on the new headers was also cake. Good idea to have a friend support the header from the bottom while you get the bolts started though.
-We did grind down the oil dipstick a hair to get it to clear the larger header flange.
-Dropped the entire exhaust out on 1 piece from the primary cats to the mufflers
-Exhaust needs to be cut so the new exhaust can slide over and be clamped, before you cut I would suggest having everything before that clamped down where it needs to be and measure twice, cut once. We cut it a bit long and went back and cut another inch off just to make sure we didnt cut too much off.

As mentioned by pretty much everyone, the pipes coming off the headers to the X pipe are where the problems are..its just a very tight area to get 3 inch pipes through + they have the cats/fake cats there so you've got like a 4 inch blowout section all around the transmission crossmember/support.

**edit** they started selling them without the fake cats so fitment there shouldnt be an issue if you go with that option

Honestly, if they moved the fake cats and just had straight 3 inch pipe there it would probably fit with no issues at all. I did end up heating up the pipe with a torch and trying to create some clearance in that area on the fake cats and some of the piping up front. Theres a lot of moving parts here. Probably could wiggle pipes around all day and get it to work but in order to keep everything up and tight with the bottom of the car I felt the better solution was making a little clearance where needed in the fake cats etc.

Overall, im very pleased with the quality of everything in the kit and expected the 3 inch exhaust to take some effort to get right and from others feedback, even the higher priced setups like Kooks and ARH can take some adjustments to get right, every car may be a little different when we are talking about such small clearances. Its really all those damn pipes from the headers to the X pipe, the headers fit perfectly and the xpipes back is perfect.










































 

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Awesome write up. This will be very helpful for the guys that ordered now and later.

With those fake cats being so close to the trans crossmember have you noticed any rattling or contact? Once the pipes are all connected and braced is everything pretty solid? Also do the fake cats/cats hang lower to risk hitting stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Awesome write up. This will be very helpful for the guys that ordered now and later.

With those fake cats being so close to the trans crossmember have you noticed any rattling or contact? Once the pipes are all connected and braced is everything pretty solid? Also do the fake cats/cats hang lower to risk hitting stuff?
Yea, those fake cats are pain which is why they are offering the systems without them now and I believe revising the placement of them downstream a little more.

I wasnt having any rattling for a while but I ended up putting my stock mufflers back on and must have shifted it just enough to start getting some contact because now the passenger side fake cat is hitting the trans brace and tapping.

Im not having any issues with ground clearance, just tough to get it just right in that area around the trans brace with those cats.

Everything is solid once clamped down but naturally youre going to have a little movement in the exhaust when driving, turning, etc.

Im still waiting on them to get some more of the straight pipe sections in and hoping they will send me those pieces but in the mean time im going to have to get it back up on a lift and see if I can adjust some of the pipes. Probably will pull that front section off and make some room on the passenger side fake cat
 

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IIRC the ARH system keeps their cats further down, which is probably why it was easier.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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These are the full 2" headers right?

For those of us below 700 rwhp, do you think 1-7/8" headers are better?
 

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Yea, those fake cats are pain which is why they are offering the systems without them now and I believe revising the placement of them downstream a little more.

I wasnt having any rattling for a while but I ended up putting my stock mufflers back on and must have shifted it just enough to start getting some contact because now the passenger side fake cat is hitting the trans brace and tapping.

Im not having any issues with ground clearance, just tough to get it just right in that area around the trans brace with those cats.

Everything is solid once clamped down but naturally youre going to have a little movement in the exhaust when driving, turning, etc.

Im still waiting on them to get some more of the straight pipe sections in and hoping they will send me those pieces but in the mean time im going to have to get it back up on a lift and see if I can adjust some of the pipes. Probably will pull that front section off and make some room on the passenger side fake cat
If its just fake cats, some massaging with a hammer would fix that right up
 

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Did you have to "oval" the driver side pipe from header to x pipe to get around body?
On mine the driver side was fine and needed no adjustment. It was the passager side as with justinschmidt1's that was the problem area. When I ordered mine TSP called me and asked if I wanted to wait for a adjusted design. I didn't so took what they had.

I got catted version and you can play with the Xpipe and get clearance on everything. The problem comes once the cats heat up they expand and start to hit the trans mount. Just needed to make it clear another 1/2 inch or so.
 

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I dont have the fake cats. Having issues with driver side right after connects to header and turns to crossover the body support that runs the length of the car. The area in the 11th pic from the top. The bend is also hitting the side.
 

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I would say play with the Xpipe moving both sides up and down and see I you can make a little more clearance on that side. I known mine wasn't 100% level with the car. I could of made it level, but I went with getting that extra little bit of clearance.
 

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https://s18.postimg.org/4u3tj6m61/20160911_170932.jpg
This is the spot I had the most trouble with on the drivers side. I had to have mine heated and bent in so it didn't lay against the outer rail. The stearing shaft bolt also hits when the wheel is at about 2-3 o'clock when accelerating out of a turn "sometimes".
Make sure it's not the head of the bolt that holds the shaft together. That's what was hitting on mine. Ground the head of the bolt down just a little and fixed it.
 

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Have a set of these I'm considering putting on myself after having them sitting around for 4 months. Do I love cars? Yes. Am I a mechanic? Not a chance. I have a set of quick jacks and some good power tools, but I don't have a giant supply of unique automotive tools/parts lying around. The part I'm not sure about it how to reinstall the dipstick.

Instructions say:
Dipstick tube will require spacers and a longer M10 bolt, or modifying by trimming the mounting tab as required to bold to cylinder head.

I don't have spacers (not even sure what they mean to be honest) or a longer M10 bolt. No pics of what a modified mountain tab looks like. Just want to avoid getting to this step only to puke oil everywhere and be SOL.

Also, anything special to know when removing/ reinstalling the steering shaft? How many bolts does this involve? Got the note about the blue loctite, but I obviously don't want to mess that part up considering its importance.

Appreciate any advice.
 

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Spacers are just a stack of washers, which would then require a longer bolt. Add as many as you need.

The steering shaft just has 2 bolts from what I remember. One is a through-bolt and one compresses a collar where the two shaft pieces overlap.....I am recalling from memory when I did my Kooks headers 6 years ago, but you get the general idea.

Just remember one thing. When you separate the shaft, DO NOT ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL!
 

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Spacers are just a stack of washers, which would then require a longer bolt. Add as many as you need.

The steering shaft just has 2 bolts from what I remember. One is a through-bolt and one compresses a collar where the two shaft pieces overlap.....I am recalling from memory when I did my Kooks headers 6 years ago, but you get the general idea.

Just remember one thing. When you separate the shaft, DO NOT ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL!
I do have washers, but since I don't do a whole lot of this, pictures are always nice on instructions. LOL I just need that longer bolt.

As the steering wheel, I was going to use that seatbelt/ratchet strap trick to lock it down.

Thanks for the reply!!
 
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