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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Plan on doing some suspension work next weekend. Who makes good sway bar biushings?? Also how much of a pain are they to change?? What size are the front and rears???
 

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I upgraded my sways with the WeaponX version.

The rears are easy and drop right out. To get the front... i pulled the transmission so I could pull the motor! Ha.

Theoretically to change bars you have to raise the motor as far as possible, then lower thr front cradle and disconnect the upper front suspension from the lower at the knuckle along with the end links and shocks. I was never able to make it work through. Change the motor mounts while you're there if changing bars.

To swap the bushings... you probably could just lower the cradle and work around the steering rack.

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Fronts are a bitch. You will need to lower the cradle while raising the motor just to get enough room to snake out the sway bar... most likely the same just to do the bushings.
 

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Put car on lift. Put tranny jack under cradle, unbolt cradle, lower about 2". It's been a while since I did it, but I don't remember having to touch the motor. It comes down with the cradle, but isn't in the way of the bar getting out. This opens up a gap between the top of the cradle and the bottom of the frame, which is where the front sway bar passes through the two. Remove front wheels and disconnect tie rods at the wheel hub end. This gives you enough room to wiggle the front bar out. It'd also give you enough room to slide new bushings in. But make sure everything is secure as hell before you put your fingers between the cradle and frame to work the bushings in to place... Took about 20 minutes to do the rear. Took about 4 hours to do the front (though a lot of that was carefully examining my options to be sure I didn't fuck anything up).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Put car on lift. Put tranny jack under cradle, unbolt cradle, lower about 2". It's been a while since I did it, but I don't remember having to touch the motor. It comes down with the cradle, but isn't in the way of the bar getting out. This opens up a gap between the top of the cradle and the bottom of the frame, which is where the front sway bar passes through the two. Remove front wheels and disconnect tie rods at the wheel hub end. This gives you enough room to wiggle the front bar out. It'd also give you enough room to slide new bushings in. But make sure everything is secure as hell before you put your fingers between the cradle and frame to work the bushings in to place... Took about 20 minutes to do the rear. Took about 4 hours to do the front (though a lot of that was carefully examining my options to be sure I didn't fuck anything up).
Sounds like since I'm changing everything else this might not be too bad. Just lower the cradle after I remove everything I'm change anyway. Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One last thing. What's the best way to lower the cradle?? I have a 4 post lift and all suspension parts excpet the struts will be remove. So nothing will be attached to the sway bar or struts to prevent the cradle from gettng lowered. I also have a tripod stand that can support the cradle. But what's the best way to supprt the cradle?? Can I put s piece of plywood between the stand and the pan?? I know it's cast and I worry about it cracking.
 

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The weight of the engine is bearing on the cradle, so make sure you've got a really "stout" jack. And yeah, some appropriate wood blocks so the jack doesn't bear on any engine components or touch the cradle in just one spot (which might break the casting). I distinctly remember I didn't even have to lower the cradle enough to get it past the studs that held it on. I was worried about whether or not something could get misaligned and I wanted the studs to keep everything lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The weight of the engine is bearing on the cradle, so make sure you've got a really "stout" jack. And yeah, some appropriate wood blocks so the jack doesn't bear on any engine components or touch the cradle in just one spot (which might break the casting). I distinctly remember I didn't even have to lower the cradle enough to get it past the studs that held it on. I was worried about whether or not something could get misaligned and I wanted the studs to keep everything lined up.
It's a 2ton piece. I'll look at it closely and figure out how to put the most weight on teh cradle itself. Good infod on the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well looks like I will need to change these after all. I started hearing a noise from the front end. Turns out to be the sway bar. The only thing I didn't change out when I did the front end a few weeks ago. So I'll live with the noise for the next few weeks. Then change these out over my christmas break. I also plan to change the rear bushings, links, and hubs. Cal Hartline lives down the street. He did my pully upgrade and tune. I'll touch base with him in the next few days to get some tips on dealing with the cradle. Ho Ho Ho ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well as I figured. Cal seemed to have an easy solution. Remove one of the front or rear cradle bolts. Put it back in so like 3/4 - 1 inch threads are in. Do the same with the rest of the front and rear bolts. Then loosen the middle bolts to let the cradle slide down and rest on the other four bolts. Should support the cradle just fine and give me access to the sway bar bushing bolts. Still giving this some thought as well as looking for something to give more support after the cradle is down on all 6 bolts.
 
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Ugh. I wouldn't do it that way, without something additional to support the cradle when the bolts fail.

It's going to be hard to get all the bolts set the same, and the one that's in the most is going to be taking a lot more strain than it's supposed to take even when it's all the way in. Worst case scenario, the one that's set a little deeper fails, and the next in line quickly fails, and in less than a heartbeat the fucking thing has unzipped all the way around and there'll be nothing to hold the cradle up except for Bugs Bunny Cartoon Physics.

You might get away with it, it might end in disaster. I'd argue it's not worth the risk.
 

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Huh? I drop the cradle all the time, especially when working on ZL1's. You're never going to get all the force on one bolt. The cradle flexes much more than that. At a minimum, you would still have the stress on 2 bolts/side or 4 of the 6 bolts

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Holy hell, I got a clunk from the front passenger side and I think it's the sway bar bushing. Now I'm hoping it's not.
 

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Holy hell, I got a clunk from the front passenger side and I think it's the sway bar bushing. Now I'm hoping it's not.
End links also die early on these cars. Check those first.

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I just went with OEM / AC Delco, knowing that they might need replacing every 30-40k miles.

Then 5k miles later I upgraded sways and custom end links from WeaponX. :D
 

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Yeah, it was a pain because they only do them in groups of 10 or more. I think I got in on the third order? Anyway, they are great FWIW.

I think @Karch is still sitting on a set - throw some money at him!
 

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Yeah, it was a pain because they only do them in groups of 10 or more. I think I got in on the third order? Anyway, they are great FWIW.

I think @Karch is still sitting on a set - throw some money at him!
I don't see anything posted by him recently in the for sale section. Maybe it's someone else?
 
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