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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a few things on my mind but rather than open up multiple threads I will post it all here and as people randomly pass through, hopefully I will get some answers. My 2009 CTS-v upgrades were going a little too well. Just to give a little background I have a bone stock V, and I am cam swapping it with a GP Tuning Stage 2 camshaft and dual valve springs, I have an air intake, I'm probably going to order some headers to go into the stock exhaust, I have a front pulley with 9.5 & 10.5 rings, an under hood heat exchanger tank, I'm going to be fitting a Pierburg CWA200 Knock Off Heat Exchanger Pump, ZZP heat exchanger, Reinforcing brick, NW102, ID1000, Flex Fuel Sensor, I'm forgetting a few things.

Anyway, this project has been really smooth until it came time to remove the blower snout. I believe it's possible even though everything else on the car is stock the blowers been off the car. I found 1 mangled fuel injector O-ring that was likely causing a vacuum leak, and below is what my isolator looked like. Also, I'll be honest there was so much silicone holding the snout on I thoroughly F'ed up the mounting surface of the snout so now i will need to machine it down in that area. Good thing its on the suction side.

Automotive tire Rim Motor vehicle Gas Automotive wheel system

Motor vehicle Blue Crankset Automotive tire Bumper


So my isolator looks stock-ish but the spring is clearly missing. The bottom line I guess is what is the 2023 replacement solution for this. I see people recommending solid isolators and some people recommending the OE stuff. I am not sure what to do.

Second question was in regard to my Brick. Thankfully looks great but I want to send it out to get it reinforced. Where do I send it to?

Third question I guess is, I was going to just run a 10.5 lower and stock upper, but after how much trouble it was to get the snout off, and the limited mounting surface area from the damage I created, I am thinking I want to install an upper, a reinstall the snout and never remove it again. What's the 10.5 lower stock upper equivalent to a 9.5 lower?

My oil cooler is leaking on the side of my engine. Does anyone know the oil cooler o-ring part number so I can order some new ones from GM?

I guess that's pretty much all of now. I appreciate the opinions, I'll post more questions as they arise and some pictures of the progress as well.

Have a good day!
 

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2011 thunder grey coupe a6 recaros.
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Solid isolater definitely. As far as the brick dedicated Motorsports ( dms) is popular as they will clean, pressure test and reinforce it then send it back. If you are able to weld aluminum or know someone you can make your own plates or buy pre made ones from pmc of NC
 

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Also agree with going solid isolator. Just make sure the damaged sealing surface of the snout doesn’t give you any issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also agree with going solid isolator. Just make sure the damaged sealing surface of the snout doesn’t give you any issues
I think if I check it with a straight edge, and use decent silicone in that area, and clean it from the inside it will likely seal. I know guys port these pretty good which has the same result. Thankfully its on the suction side of things and not the pressure side.
 

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Hmm, you can buy a brand new reinforced brick from dms. Not ideal but maybe you could sell your stock one to recoup a little
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea, looks like I am headed down that path more than likely if I can't find someone. The plates are available but my welder doesn't do aluminum so that means I need to find someone to weld it... a whole can of worms
 

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DMS did my brick ~6 months ago and turned it around in less than two days. There is actually a pulley ratio calculator thread on this website that has a link to a calculoid, it's pretty fun to play around with.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
DMS did my brick ~6 months ago and turned it around in less than two days. There is actually a pulley ratio calculator thread on this website that has a link to a calculoid, it's pretty fun to play around with.

Can someone link me to "DMS," because I emailed dedicated motorsports and I told they do not offer this service.... maybe I'm contacting the wrong company.

Thanks

I found a company based in Texas, Boost Mode Racing. Its listed on their website, anyone use them?
 

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If you are on FaceBook message Michael Paup or AR Hobbs. They both do a lot of the brick reinforcing. I believe Michael is cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Made a few calls today. It seems like due to liability, nobody reinforces bricks anymore. I have a tig welder but it doesn't do aluminum and I honestly don't trust myself with such a thin part anyway. I wound up just doing the Lingenfelter Brick Exchange and picked up a new isolator at the same time.

I also was on the fence about headers vs test pipes. For the cost I decided to buy a set of speed engineering headers.

I think I may need to swap out my in-tank pumps after all... We will cover that after I get some more of the car back together.
 

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Have you looked at/replaced your fuel hat? If you're going to look at pulling the pumps out you should probably think about maybe going to an ALM fuel hat, worth every dime if the car doesn't already have one. Fuel leaks from that spot are about the most common failure mode these cars have. I also just ordered the speed engineering headers/x pipe and I spoke to the guy at Mont and he told me that I absolutely need to ditch the clamps they send with the kit and use torca clamps.
 

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1. You definitely want to install an aftermarket UPPER pulley, primarily to have the hub installed. That way you can swap upper pulleys with no hassle. Get a Griptec.
2. Definitely go with the headers. if changing the pulley ratio that much, headers become a necessity.
3. If you haven't already, contact Matt @Lt1z about your combination of parts. Are the ID1000s the right size for your build ?
4. Have you considered the ported blower approach?
5. do you have a tuner in mind? They might be the person to check with for putting together a plan. It best to match things to a goal rather than just randomly gathering 'popular' parts.
 

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Can someone link me to "DMS," because I emailed dedicated motorsports and I told they do not offer this service.... maybe I'm contacting the wrong company.

Thanks

I found a company based in Texas, Boost Mode Racing. Its listed on their website, anyone use them?
Boost Mode did my brick along with blower port and many other shenanigans. David does good work and is sharp. He could port that snout for you too so the TB fits, if already done I missed that. But yes good work, he's just not a huge shop like dms so lead times might not be 2 days lol. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
1. You definitely want to install an aftermarket UPPER pulley, primarily to have the hub installed. That way you can swap upper pulleys with no hassle. Get a Griptec.
2. Definitely go with the headers. if changing the pulley ratio that much, headers become a necessity.
3. If you haven't already, contact Matt @Lt1z about your combination of parts. Are the ID1000s the right size for your build ?
4. Have you considered the ported blower approach?
5. do you have a tuner in mind? They might be the person to check with for putting together a plan. It best to match things to a goal rather than just randomly gathering 'popular' parts.
I ordered my cam from Mat. I really don't have a goal. If I make 650whp I will be very happy, it should breeze right to it or close to it, based on other people who have similar parts. I honestly don't think the headers will do much other than lower my boost by a 1lb and sound nice but they were almost the same price as test pipes so I figured what the heck. Porting the blower is for the guy who needs every last hp, that's not the goal. I am the tuner.

DG
 
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