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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the trigger on Nexen SUR4Gs for my 2014 V-Sport (stock are 275 out back instead of the 295 you guys have) and had to get 255 in back to get the killer closeout deal. I got a full track day out of the fronts and then one session my next day before the cords were showing. So, couple of questions.

  • How many track days do you guys generally get on 200 treadwear tires? Two or more? I'm curious if the issue was cheap tires + wrong size in the rear or if it's just the nature of these vehicles and possibly driving style. Given that you guys have ~200hp on me I feel like you should be going through tires even quicker than I am, all else equal.
  • I'm trying to find some tires that don't have that issue, are decent track tires and are hopefully on the correct side of cheap. I'm leaning toward using extreme performance summer tires instead with something like a 300TW rating. Does anyone have any thoughts? Priorities in order are
    • Lasts at least 2-3 days, hopefully 4
    • Grip
    • Price
  • Any other suggestions on getting some more life out of tires?
 

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Changing tire sizes to smaller will upset the handling of the car. 200 TW is subjective between tire manufacturers. keep[ that in mind. Tracking a 4500 lb beast is going to eat tires with stock camber and stock suspension setup. I assume your running x4 maybe x5 20- 25 minute sessions per day ? No 200 treadwear tire will last all day with those settings and weight. We run dunlop direzza's, Bridgestone RE71's for endurance racing and they barley make it after 8 SOLID hours of racing. This is with a 3000 lb car. I would look into those two as a start also Yokohama Advan and Hankook ventus are decent.
If you really want something that lasts and maintains grip try the Toyo Proxies RR. These are a DOT slick and wear well. grip is ok as is price. Not to be used in the cold or rain, rain is ok if you know what your doing. These tires are 3 seconds off of a hoosier A7's but are 3 second faster than a standard R compound. YMMV. Contact Trackday tire and get a discount for the Toyo's, John is the man and he will hook you up.

You want the following:
Longevity
Grip
Price
Pick any two of the three. trying to get all three is difficult.

Good luck and welcome to tire wars 2021.
 

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I ran Falken Azenis FK510 (300TW) 285/35-18 square on my 350Z and they were great. Grip was fantastic and after 3 - 20 minutes sessions at the infield of Fontana showed very little wear, though they were heat cycled. The Z was 1000 lb lighter and ~300 hp less than the V, so take that for what it's worth. When I ran my V at the same track for the same amount of time on Continental Extreme Contact DW (340TW) I was happy with the grip and the wear was acceptable. I would guess I could get 3 track days out of a dedicated set, maybe a little less if I wanted to kill the brakes every time.

More tire will help with wear, but it will also change handling and braking. Increasing the rear width will yield more understeer, so you may start to wear the fronts out quicker. Going to a square setup will lead to more oversteer. In the end, you're battling weight. I wouldn't expect a 4200 lb car to last a full season on a set of tires at the track.
 

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The nitto nt-01 worked very well for me before I went widebody. You do need to be change the alignment to get better wear out of any R compound tire though.

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Changing tire sizes to smaller will upset the handling of the car. 200 TW is subjective between tire manufacturers. keep[ that in mind. Tracking a 4500 lb beast is going to eat tires with stock camber and stock suspension setup. I assume your running x4 maybe x5 20- 25 minute sessions per day ? No 200 treadwear tire will last all day with those settings and weight. We run dunlop direzza's, Bridgestone RE71's for endurance racing and they barley make it after 8 SOLID hours of racing. This is with a 3000 lb car. I would look into those two as a start also Yokohama Advan and Hankook ventus are decent.
If you really want something that lasts and maintains grip try the Toyo Proxies RR. These are a DOT slick and wear well. grip is ok as is price. Not to be used in the cold or rain, rain is ok if you know what your doing. These tires are 3 seconds off of a hoosier A7's but are 3 second faster than a standard R compound. YMMV. Contact Trackday tire and get a discount for the Toyo's, John is the man and he will hook you up.

You want the following:
Longevity
Grip
Price
Pick any two of the three. trying to get all three is difficult.

Good luck and welcome to tire wars 2021.
Michael, based on the comment above....If you were running Sebring, would you run a "square" set up?
 

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Michael, based on the comment above....If you were running Sebring, would you run a "square" set up?
Here are the cars I have and what the setup is - this is for slicks as well as R compounds.
E46M3 285 Square
370Z Can't remember
E90M3 285F 295 R for Hoosiers 285 F 305 R Pirelli
997.1 245F 285 R
 

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Here are the cars I have and what the setup is - this is for slicks as well as R compounds.
E46M3 285 Square
370Z Can't remember
E90M3 285F 295 R for Hoosiers 285 F 305 R Pirelli
997.1 245F 285 R
What about our Vs?
 

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not initially, Square is good to rotate the tires front to rear and reversing the mount from inside to outside. It takes a while to get the hang of the car on track then I would change to square to extend tire life.
 

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When I was road racing my V I ran Toyo R888 and I generally got 3-4 days out of them before they would heat cycle out. Also rotated them after each day.


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How quickly you use up your tires depends in large on how you use them. I go back and forth between wanting the fastest line through a turn and wanting to drift the car going through a turn. Drifting through a turn is slower, but arguably more fun. If I am in a drifting kind of mood, I chew through tires like there's no tomorrow. But if I focus on clean lines the tires last forever. What wears them out is you pushing them past their optimal grip. It's a sign you're actually going slower than you could be.
 

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Is this the same car that was roasting the brakes? And we surmised that it could have been traction control related? Were these tires initially part of that issue? TC could definitely be a factor if it was 0N in the previously discussed situation and these tires were in that mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yup, same car. I put TC in competition mode last time but I could only do one session before cords showed so I can't say if it worked. Going out again this weekend. I'll be trying competition mode again but obviously I'll also be on new tires so we won't be able to isolate which was the problem... assuming it fixes it.

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Yup, same car. I put TC in competition mode last time but I could only do one session before cords showed so I can't say if it worked. Going out again this weekend. I'll be trying competition mode again but obviously I'll also be on new tires so we won't be able to isolate which was the problem... assuming it fixes it.

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What I'm suggesting is that given the previous brake issue it sounds like 80% of those tire's life was scrubbed off while the brake issue was occurring so therefore... it may well be that the extreme wear you saw may NOT be because the tires are cheap, but because the tires are merely VICTIMS of whatever calamity befell the brakes. IF it is TC related, and that is corrected, you may yet find that those tires are outstanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, I got 340 TW Falken Azenis FK510s. Tried to go with stock size from slightly wider in back, unfortunately my tire shop got the wrong size (ugh) in the back. However, they're too tall of an aspect ratio 275/40 instead of the stock 275/35, so the tires were too big, not too small. Tire life seems to be acceptable running 36psi hot. I think I'll get 3-4 days out of the fronts, maybe even 5 on the rears. Which means I'm not totally priced out of my hobby.

Sadly, the tires are significantly less grippy. Primarily saying that based on feel but my best time was 1 second higher than on the Nexens and that's after a half day of instruction and having a better idea of how to approach the track and how much speed I can carry through the turns. Though as a counterpoint the slow group was much slower this time and I was getting bunched up behind slower vehicles quite often.

@MrSurly , to your point there's plenty of pad left on the rear. I was running the TC competitive mode. Going to update that on the other thread

One upshot to this debacle was on the day where I got one session I had an instructor. He felt bad about us only getting one session so he let me drive his BRZ for a second heat. Love the caddy, but... WOW. Think I'm going to be buying something more track focused in the near future. Miata if I'm reasonable, C5/6 if I'm true to myself. Just the idea of buying another car at the moment makes me a little sick. I'm currently sitting on 5 and the last one (Infiniti J30 for kicks and giggles) was purchased two weeks ago and an absolute nightmare to find in this market.
 

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I ran the FK510s on my 350Z for the track and loved them. They gave me the right amount of grip and slip, which made the car a blast to drive. I was running 285/35-18 square, so it was more grip than slip, unless I got a little spicy coming into a corner. I highly recommend looking at the 350Z or 370Z for a track car. A decent 350Z can be had for less than $10k and would be a good mid-step between a Miata and C5/C6. While I felt as though my Z needed more power, it was more fun driving on the track than my V since I could beat on it without worrying that I'd be out $30k if the shit hit the fan.

I'll likely go with the FK510 for my V when I get some dedicated 18s for the track. For half the price of NT01 I think they're worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wow. I had no idea they were that cheap. I've had someone else suggest spec Z as well. I will say my recent Infiniti J30 purchase has me a little skeptical of Nissan. Timing belt is something like a six hour job (on an interference engine) and I'm finding a lot of the car to generally just be a** backwards. But I'm guessing there's more of an online community for the VQ and 350Z than there is for the VG and J30. That would make ownership a lot easier.

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