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Subject: Pilot Bearing Removal

5K views 34 replies 12 participants last post by  kittyboy 
#1 · (Edited)
Huge amount of frustration attempting to extract my pilot bearing, standard LS bearing, I swear it will not budge, failed attempts caused not a scratch or damage, it's indestructible and impossible to remove. Anyone use a pilot bearing removal tool that actually works?
 
#2 ·
An old mechanic's trick is to use something to push it out. I have used modeling clay and a rod the size of the inner hole. Fill the hole with clay making sure to get it in behind the bearing, leave a little room for the rod to fit in the hole about half way and then a few hits on the end of the rod with a hammer. basically, you're using hydraulic pressure to push it out.
 
#4 ·
Yeah don't do the bread trick. I actually did it on mine and realized the oil plug in the crank got pushed in pretty far. It did work through! but at that point my engine was built and if I did dislodge that plug it would have been a lot of work. If you have the crank out and a replacement plug could do
 
#5 ·
You can rent or buy a slide hammer (basically a long rod where you can attach various hooks on the end), and yank it out that way. Most of the auto box stores have one you can borrow.

It's just a matter of finding the right attachment to fit inside the bearing - I bought a slide hammer and had to modify one of the hooks for it to fit the bearing ID.

You could probably make one from a hardened bolt and washer, grinding a hook on the threaded end to fit the inside of the bearing and then slowly pry it out (levering against the block and the bolt head/washer) if no tool is available


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#6 ·
I tried a couple similar adjustable hoop variations, the U shape type and the hammer type as illustrated. Guess I did not mod the hook well enough, they slid out every time, I would feel extraction force for a moment but then the hooks would slide out? One of my concerns using the hammer slide type is a chance I might cause some internal engine damage, not sure? Does anyone have a close-up picture of hook shape that worked really well? ty
 
#7 · (Edited)
What if you use the hydraulic method (I used wet strips of paper on a different crank once) but use a piece of metal to close off the crank oil plug? Like a dime for ex?

Also, harbor freight sells bearing pullers that get far better engagement than a two pronged slide hammer attachment. I used one of those along with some threaded Rod to do blower case bearings, and probably the pilot come to think of it. With threaded Rod, hardened hardware, and some plate steel welded in a U, you’ve got a puller you can run with an impact

Ps the slide hammer has never been used. Match thread with some Rod and build tool.


 
#12 ·
Yeah, I don't think your right hand will matter much to a crank that spins 8 hammers at 7k RPM making 800 ft-lbs of torque.

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#15 ·
Just for curiosity, why are you removing the pilot bearing?
 
#18 ·
Is something wrong with the one you’re attempting to replace now?
 
#20 · (Edited)
No, it's it's in perfect condition,
For whatever it is worth. . .

Pilot Bearings / Bushings typically do not wear out.
Usually best to leave them alone, as you can damage things when attempting to replace them.
 
#22 ·
While many call a pilot bushing, a pilot bearing. . .
I would never, ever consider running a true bearing, as a pilot bearing.

If the current bearing / bushing has not been damaged by your attempts to remove it, and it is not worn out or damaged, then why not leave things alone????

In our engine shop we had a crank grinder.
We moved 8 - 13 engines a day through that shop, for about 10-Years.

So roughly that is. . .
=> (10 * 260 * 10)= 26,000 engines / cranks.

After inspection of a crank (including the pilot bearing / bushing), before moving it up onto the crank grinder, I doubt we ever had to replace more than two (2) pilot bearings (bushings). And I remember one that was quite marred. I remember talking to that customer, who told me that he had issues when replacing the clutch in his truck.

And those cranks sat in a corner of the crank room for some time, before we could bribe someone to replace it.. :eek:
 
#27 ·
You may be heading the wrong direction. A faulty (or dry) pilot bearig/bushing would have no reason to make noise in neutral. Pilot bearings that are noisy will sound off when you step on the clutch (release the clutch plate from the grasp of the pressure plate) allowing the clutch disc to turn at a different speed than the flywheel/crank. Holding the clutch pedal down, transmission in gear, engine running, car sitting still would be the most extreme exercise of the pilot. If the trans were placed in neutral OR the clutch pedal released, the pilot wouldn't be doing any work, so no noise.
Noisy pilots typically squawk during shifts and when stopped in gear with the clutch pedal depressed.
 
#26 · (Edited)
The slide hammer portion of my bearing puller arrived today from Slovenia! I can finally install my McLeod HD, bronze pilot bushing and Tilton slave. ;)

UPDATE: 8/31/22 The SKF bearing puller worked flawlessly! I decided I am not going to install a bronze bushing due to the fact only 0.3" of the input shaft on a V2 actually enters the pilot bearing .01" of which is tapered. I fear the front load condition will prematurely wear the softer bronze material as compared to a steel pilot bearing.
Cylinder Paint Gas Road Electric blue
 
#29 ·
Update: No longer installing the McLeod HD, going with the Tilton 55-2010 ceramic dual kit.
Very curious your thoughts on these clutches; what did you see as the pros/cons of each. What was the deciding factor? How do these compare with the Monster S Triple?
I bought the monster and it sits upon the shelf patiently wailting… but I can still switch to another if merited.
 
#31 ·
While I applaud the OP for purchasing such a nice tool,
maybe he should consider using some other tools, such as
micrometers, and / or dummy trans input shafts, which has
been cut to a precise OD, in order to help determine if the pilot
bearing actually requires replacing..:)

We literally ground thousands of cranks in our crank-shop, and
maybe?, just maybe??, we ended up with a dozen or so that required
the pilot bushings to be replaced.
 
#32 ·
While I applaud the OP for purchasing such a nice tool,
maybe he should consider using some other tools, such as
micrometers, and / or dummy trans input shafts, which has
been cut to a precise OD, in order to help determine if the pilot
bearing actually requires replacing..:)

We literally ground thousands of cranks in our crank-shop, and
maybe?, just maybe??, we ended up with a dozen or so that required
the pilot bushings to be replaced.
I consider it good practice and preventative maintenance to replace the pilot bearing/bushing and throwout bearing whenever I replace a clutch. I do perform inspection of the existing bearing/bushing prior to remove/replace for wear condition that may indicate other concerning issues. Bearing seals, grease, and the actual bearings wear down over time regardless of the bearing housing ID/OD measurements and visual condition. Prior to the installation of new bearing/bushing I check fit the input shaft and crank.
 
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