Stroked lsa 4”

People do it frequently just like with an LS3. There are stronger blocks but its not a bad choice.

just keep as much meat in the cylinders as u can

07GTS said:

just keep as much meat in the cylinders as u can

Click to expand...

So with that being said sir, is this a bad idea when weighing the pros and cons?

i think its best to keep in mind based on the power level u want out of the engine, stroking will add stress and thinner cylinders will also add to the stress over time

What happened to your 416 using the LS-3 block, Mr. Big?

07GTS said:

i think its best to keep in mind based on the power level u want out of the engine, stroking will add stress and thinner cylinders will also add to the stress over time

Click to expand...

Got it. I have been looking at the dart block from Mont Motorsports.

Rubber Duck said:

What happened to your 416 using the LS-3 block, Mr. Big?

Click to expand...

Sir at this time I don’t know. Car was sitting in the garage after everything was back together. Started it up and everything was running great. Oil pressure was at 58psi. I monitored the oil pressure for about 10 minutes and the pressure started to drip slowly like normal. 5 minutes after that I hear a tap tap tap and go immediately to check the oil pressure and it’s at 2psi with all the bells and whistles. At this time I haven’t gotten a chance to to pull the engine. Checked the oil pump and it looks great but has some metal in it when I took the cover off of

Damn, that sucks. Rip…

Seems like you've had your unfair share of engine troubles.

Rubber Duck said:

Mr. Big,
As I recall, this is the second engine in a row you have lost due to oil issues. . . Correct!

I am also assuming you put a new pump and pick-up on this new LS3 based 416.. Correct!

If your engine oil pan is filled with oil now, but the bearings are 'toast', then you might look into the oil pump pick up tube o-ring issues with these engines.

Here is a topic you can begin associating yourself with regarding that issue.

LSA pick up tube o-ring

After the recent thread regarding low oil pressure (sorry man) I am trying to confirm I have the correct part number for mine. I have a new ported LSA pump so it didn't come with o-rings. According to this site the correct part number is GM 12557752: Oil Pickup Tube O-Ring for LS-Series...

www.ctsvowners.com

.

In the mean time I would not put another engine in, or repair this one until you determine what is causing the low oil pressure issues.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Yes sir, I installed a new melting oil pump and pick up unit. With the last engine the bolt came out of the pick unit were it connects to the oil pump. When I removed the timing cover the pickup tube wasn’t even in the oil pump. Thanks as always sir for the advice.

Jim said:

Seems like you've had your unfair share of engine troubles.

Click to expand...

Sir this is for sure but also a learning experience I will never forget. Lol

Bigwilly1267 said:

Sir this is for sure but also a learning experience I will never forget. Lol

Click to expand...

Gotta be getting expensive! Best of luck to you!

I commend your patient and positive attitude. I’d be flipping the f**k out

Uh…what’s up with the oiling groove under the bearing? And aren’t the cylinders supposed to show cross hatching? That is a lot of surface area under the bearing where oil can stagnate. Could be the cause of low oil pressure but then again I don’t know what the stock set up looks like.

Vwlove56 said:

Uh…what’s up with the oiling groove under the bearing? And aren’t the cylinders supposed to show cross hatching? That is a lot of surface area under the bearing where oil can stagnate. Could be the cause of low oil pressure but then again I don’t know what the stock set up looks like.

Click to expand...

Sir this is what I found when I broke down the block. Since the pick up tube came loose, oil wasn’t setting to where it should.

07GTS said:

i think its best to keep in mind based on the power level u want out of the engine, stroking will add stress and thinner cylinders will also add to the stress over time

Click to expand...

This.

For a "mild" build in the 650 rwhp range it should be fine. Pictures can be deceiving- easy option is to take it to a reputable machine shop and ask them their opinion.

FWIW it doesn't look too bad to me. In your shoes, I'd be focused on getting a running and reliable car more than I would pushing boundaries on an aluminum block. I'd consider LSA block and crank, forged pistons, the best heads in my budget and a decent cam. Then get it running again.

Full disclosure- I paid a local shop to assemble my last motor specifically to avoid my butterfinger luck with important fasteners! 😅

So would you say this block isn’t something you’d rebuild for let’s 750-800whp?