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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2012 V seems to be having a steering wheel tilt issue. Not the common issue with the bolts coming out. Mine just doesn’t work at all.

I hear a clicking coming from under the seat when I use the directional knob, but that’s it. My memory seats work perfect, seat fans and heat work perfect. It’s just my steering wheel I cannot adjust up or down, in or out. Took the + cable off to reset and nothing. Since it’s clicking, I am going to say the fuse is okay. Anybody else have have this issue and resolved it?
 

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There are two screw jacks. One is for up and down and the other is for in and out. It is really strange that you are hung up on both the X and Y axis. If you hear a click when you run the switch in either direction you will probably have to drop the column to find what is binding or if you need to lubricate the screw jacks. Use Lucas or the like. So not use WD-40 as it draws the lubricant out of the bronze block material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are two screw jacks. One is for up and down and the other is for in and out. It is really strange that you are hung up on both the X and Y axis. If you hear a click when you run the switch in either direction you will probably have to drop the column to find what is binding or if you need to lubricate the screw jacks. Use Lucas or the like. So not use WD-40 as it draws the lubricant out of the bronze block material.
Its strange the cylinder under the seat clocks. I just don’t know which one, there’s a few of them.
 

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There are three motors under the seat. Understand that you have to disconnect the battery of you are going to remove the sea from the car otherwise the airbag light will set. If you don't have a scanner capable of resetting the light it is easier to disconnect the battery before you remove the seat. Crazy that the front of the seat has no bolts. The front part of the seat is inserted into two holes and then pushed down in the back and affixed with two bolts. I would suggest you remove the headrest first. Then, take the covers off the front of each side of the seat rails and the back as well. Now, remove the back bolts and lean the seat forward. Don't remove the seat or disconnect connectors. Now, run the seat switch and figure out what is making noise. There are cables that run the seat back and forth on one motor and screw jacks that run the seat back and forth. The up and down features are controlled with a motor as is the tilt feature. Lubrication using something like gun oil. I use Lucas in an aerosol can. Other noise making issues are related to the rivets that get loose. I ended up getting a used seat for $400 bucks and cannibalized it to make one good seat. I bought my V used and the passenger seat would not move forward to backwards. So, removed the rails from the used seat and made one good one. Then, I discovered the loose rivets and took a heal Dolley and a hammer and tightened them up. Also, ended up welding a couple that were beyond tightening up. And, changed the motor cable and lubricated the pivot points and screw jacks. Seat works great. That got me looking at the drivers seat so I sent through that one too. I have a dealer level scanner and could reset the airbag codes for the seat so that was not an issue. The seats are crazy heavy so get help and a beach towel not to scratch the door sill. That is, if you are going to remove the seat from the car. It is incredible how nice the seats work after you go through them. Also, you will find loose bolts and get them tightened up and I even added a couple of self tapping screws to make them even tighter.
 
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