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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Steering Wheel Shaking Under Braking... UPDATE!!!

I searched and read a bunch but wanted to see if there was any more recent suggestions on this.

Thought it was brakes of course so I replaced with R1 Rotors and brembo pads and still have the same issue. Cleaned wheel surfaces and used the increased torque values. At 100K miles I know the upper control arm bushings are probably shot. Could this cause the issue? Sometimes there is almost no shake and other times it's much worse. Sometimes applying more brake helps but others it shakes more. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks....
 

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I searched and read a bunch but wanted to see if there was any more recent suggestions on this.

Thought it was brakes of course so I replaced with R1 Rotors and brembo pads and still have the same issue. Cleaned wheel surfaces and used the increased torque values. At 100K miles I know the upper control arm bushings are probably shot. Could this cause the issue? Sometimes there is almost no shake and other times it's much worse. Sometimes applying more brake helps but others it shakes more. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks....
Hub bearings. I've had to replace my hub assembly. jack the front end up (no load on the suspension) and see if the wheel has play.
 
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My upper controller arms bushings were shot and I didn’t have this problem.

Tires need balancing?
Good call.. forgot tire balance..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hub bearings. I've had to replace my hub assembly. jack the front end up (no load on the suspension) and see if the wheel has play.
Will check this for sure. Thanks.

Not tire balance. Had this done a while back and she is dead smooth until you touch the brakes.
 

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Will check this for sure. Thanks.

Not tire balance. Had this done a while back and she is dead smooth until you touch the brakes.
Fyi.. I have had brand new rotors that were warped out of the box. I hope not.. but it does happen.

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Shocks ok? The tire will definitely not maintain proper contact with the road on uneven surfaces even under braking. You said it's better with heavier braking, which would place more pressure on the tire, possibly stabilizing the uneven shock force.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Shocks ok? The tire will definitely not maintain proper contact with the road on uneven surfaces even under braking. You said it's better with heavier braking, which would place more pressure on the tire, possibly stabilizing the uneven shock force.
1 strut is a little damp but not dripping or anything and the other is dry. Car handles well so if one were completely blown I would think I'd feel it more then just brakes. But I will recheck the struts.
 

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Fyi.. I have had brand new rotors that were warped out of the box. I hope not.. but it does happen.

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What rotors?

I have a.big of steering shimmy as well after my brake job last year
 

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What rotors?

I have a.big of steering shimmy as well after my brake job last year
I just mean in my 30+yrs of turning wrench both private an at the dealer.. it happens.

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I think this is a common problem on V's. If you look through pictures, you will see more often then not, hit spots on rotors. I attribute it to deep wheel cleaner and other cleaners used on the wheels I think it causes the pads to stick to the rotors and deposit par material to the rotor face, causing a hight spot. Just my theory but I feel pretty strongly about it. Many times I have gone to reverse out of the garage after rotors and pads have gotten wet and felt the pads stuck to the rotors.

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Fyi.. I have had brand new rotors that were warped out of the box. I hope not.. but it does happen.

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Me 2
R1 Concepts.,
They replaced under warranty.

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My V has stock brakes and no shimmy at all under braking. Every other car I have had eventually gets an annoying intermittent shimmy that was hard to track down, I just hope it doesn't happen to this car.

If you have a dial indicator you could check runout of your hub and then the rotor to see if they are both running true and check tie rods/ball joints.
 
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Me 2
R1 Concepts.,
They replaced under warranty.

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I'll say my R1 (drilled/slotted) concept rotors were and are still perfect. Also no hot spots,, well yet and I do beat on it..
 
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I'll say my R1 (drilled/slotted) concept rotors were and are still perfect. Also no hot spots,, well yet and I do beat on it..
I think this is hot spot, so can you remove them or replace the rotors.
At high speed braking my shit shakes some time but not always.


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I think this is hot spot, so can you remove them or replace the rotors.
At high speed braking my shit shakes some time but not always.


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Shit!! Your rotors are glazed big time! You could probably do a light resurface/turn an repad an they would put you through the windshield again.. you probably don't realize how much braking you've lost. IMO.

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Discussion Starter #17
My rotors look perfect no hot spots at all. Pad contact and wear are very even so I don't think it's rotor related. It shook before and that's what lead my to do a complete brake job. If the rotors are warped I don't think the problem would come and go. Car is at cadillac bring a new blower right now but I need to start checking all of the bushings when I get it back.


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Shit!! Your rotors are glazed big time! You could probably do a light resurface/turn an repad an they would put you through the windshield again.. you probably don't realize how much braking you've lost. IMO.

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Thxs

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Discussion Starter #19
Problem Solved!!!

Just wanted to update this issue for anyone looking or may have a similar problem.

I took the wheels off again to check out the upper bushings and ball joints, among other things. Everything checked out good and at 100K miles the upper bushing were perfect. Obviously they've been changed at some point before I bought the car. Anyway I put everything back together and decided to use some Never Seize on the lug studs, I tend to like this stuff. Applied a light coating to all of the studs and torqued lugs to 130 ftlbs and then to the updated 150ftlbs. Took the car for a drive a bit later not expecting anything but the shake was gone!! Put about 1000 miles on the car since then and I'd say the shake is 90% better at 80-150mph and totally gone below 80. I'm guessing the studs needed a little lube to achieve the correct torque. I guess everything is a little better with lube!! Thanks all of the suggestions.
 

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I'm highly skeptical that this will resolve the problem

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