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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did my first oil change on the V and bad news, shimmery oil. I’ve only owned the car for 4000 miles. I’m pretty sure it’s done for but until I get it out and tore down I won’t know for sure. I did however find a Ls3 416 stroker with forged eagle crank, eagle forged rods w/ arp 2000 bolts and choice of dishes or flat top pistons for $6200. If I go that route I have talked to my tuner he is suggesting 2.5 upper and 10 lower. At this time ported heads and blower are not in budget but I can do a cam. What would you all do? Rebuild if possible or stroker and what should I do now while the motor is out, also what compression ratio should I try and stick too?
 

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Wow! way to jump in with both feet!
Sounds like you’re itching to build something but maybe step back a second and think about what your goals are? First, sparkly oil could be a death knell depending on what the source is, but it might not be junk-the-motor-time.
Maybe a rebuild and freshen up is in order and mod the LSA while you’re in there.
Are you wanting “mo powa” or ALL the power? street, never track or both or track only?
If it’s a budget build, fix and mod the LSA. Tons of power available there.
Goals:budget:time.


Probably not a prudent idea to go completely off the deep end as I did.
I started with a sane plan…. and then I did NOT stick to it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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BTW: If your tuner is suggesting 10/2.5 pulleys without EVERYTHING already ported and supported by cooling mods, exhaust, intake mods, fbe etc….
You should find another tuner.

EDIT: When you say that you “found a 416” it’s likely a “build to order” which commonly was ready in two to four weeks. But in todays world, most of those ads are not really valid when you call them as all the parts are now not available and those that are… cost a bunch more and take much longer to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BTW: If your tuner is suggesting 10/2.5 pulleys without EVERYTHING already ported and supported by cooling mods, exhaust, intake mods, fbe etc….
You should find another tuner.

EDIT: When you say that you “found a 416” it’s likely a “build to order” which commonly was ready in two to four weeks. But in todays world, most of those ads are not really valid when you call them as all the parts are now not available and those that are… cost a bunch more and take much longer to get.
Nothing is ported yet but it does have weapon x heat exchanger, 8 gal trunk tank w/ emp pump, dsx e85 w/ aux pump set up, MM wild catch can, id1300 injectors, 2.4 upper 9.17 lower, 90mm throttle body, ARH headers, and catless full 3” exhaust to an unknown brand of muffler.

Power goals are 700-800hp. I do or well did drive this car to work fairly often for the short time I’ve owned it and have taken it on a couple trips and would like to continue to do such things. I’m not looking for a full on race car but something I can have fun with both on and off the track more so off as the nearest 1/4mi track is about 2 hrs away.

Man you’re half way there for hp goals. Heads/cam? I would have an oil analysis done to see it it’s steel or bronze or what. What are the total miles?
80,000

Pull the oil filter and cut it open.
Take a color picture and post it to this forum…

A 416 in.³ engine will need more air. So porting
and a different cam might be in your future… Lol
I plan on porting the supercharger soon but I am currently looking at heads. Talked with engine builder and he has everything in stock but its a 6 bolt 58x wheel so i would need a new flexplate.
 
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Nothing is ported yet but it does have weapon x heat exchanger, 8 gal trunk tank w/ emp pump, dsx e85 w/ aux pump set up, MM wild catch can, id1300 injectors, 2.4 upper 9.17 lower, 90mm throttle body, ARH headers, and catless full 3” exhaust to an unknown brand of muffler.
Man you’re half way there for hp goals. Heads/cam? I would have an oil analysis done to see it it’s steel or bronze or what. What are the total miles?
 

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So I did my first oil change on the V and bad news, shimmery oil. I’ve only owned the car for 4000 miles. I’m pretty sure it’s done for but until I get it out and tore down I won’t know for sure. I did however find a Ls3 416 stroker with forged eagle crank, eagle forged rods w/ arp 2000 bolts and choice of dishes or flat top pistons for $6200. If I go that route I have talked to my tuner he is suggesting 2.5 upper and 10 lower. At this time ported heads and blower are not in budget but I can do a cam. What would you all do? Rebuild if possible or stroker and what should I do now while the motor is out, also what compression ratio should I try and stick too?
Pull the oil filter and cut it open.
Take a color picture and post it to this forum…

A 416 in.³ engine will need more air. So porting
and a different cam might be in your future… Lol
 
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Nothing is ported yet but it does have weapon x heat exchanger, 8 gal trunk tank w/ emp pump, dsx e85 w/ aux pump set up, MM wild catch can, id1300 injectors, 2.4 upper 9.17 lower, 90mm throttle body, ARH headers, and catless full 3” exhaust to an unknown brand of muffler.

Power goals are 700-800hp. I do or well did drive this car to work fairly often for the short time I’ve owned it and have taken it on a couple trips and would like to continue to do such things. I’m not looking for a full on race car but something I can have fun with both on and off the track more so off as the nearest 1/4mi track is about 2 hrs away.


80,000


I plan on porting the supercharger soon but I am currently looking at heads. Talked with engine builder and he has everything in stock but its a 6 bolt 58x wheel so i would need a new flexplate.
Boost is simply a restriction to flow.

Improve your cylinder head flow, and move to the appropriate
camshaft before you spend money on the blower.

---------------------------------------------------

You wrote:
"Power goals are 700-800hp"
. . .A Good Place To Begin..lol

An efficient IC Engine will produce about 1.0 fwHP per each 1.5 CFM inhaled by the engine.

So you can simply multiply your HP Goals by 1.5, and determine
how much air the induction system must provide.

The above value of 1.5 is simply the reciprocal of the %ASE value
whereby static compression is assigned an Air Standard Efficiency Percentage.

Here an efficient engine will provide for about an 67% efficiency.
So then. . .(1 / 0.67)= 1.493 which is rounded up to 1.5. . . .

Its a simply 'Engine Demand' versus 'Induction Supply' issue. . . .

---------------------------------------------------

Now the problem!
800 fwHp requires about 1200 CFM.

That means you would need to port your little 1.9 L
blower, and also spin it pretty hard. . .

One more thing; the more efficient is your mass flow recovery
system, the less you have to spin the blower.

Or conversely; the more you spin the blower,
the more cool air will be realized.

Cool air is more dense (heavier) as it contains more air molecules.

A blower also compacts (to some degree) that air even more.
A real Supercharger / Compressor compacts the air more again. . . .

This allows for more fuel to be added to the air, which increases
the 'Mass Charge' entering the cylinder, which means the engine
has a higher potential to make more HP. . . .

Good Luck!

Cheers
RD
 
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Nothing is ported yet but it does have weapon x heat exchanger, 8 gal trunk tank w/ emp pump, dsx e85 w/ aux pump set up, MM wild catch can, id1300 injectors, 2.4 upper 9.17 lower, 90mm throttle body, ARH headers, and catless full 3” exhaust to an unknown brand of muffler.

Power goals are 700-800hp. I do or well did drive this car to work fairly often for the short time I’ve owned it and have taken it on a couple trips and would like to continue to do such things. I’m not looking for a full on race car but something I can have fun with both on and off the track more so off as the nearest 1/4mi track is about 2 hrs away.


80,000


I plan on porting the supercharger soon but I am currently looking at heads. Talked with engine builder and he has everything in stock but its a 6 bolt 58x wheel so i would need a new flexplate.
I'll say that a well rebuilt Stock bottom end is able to make 700-800 and live, especially if you are not full out killing the car every time you drive it (meaning not just a track car). I have a rebuilt stock bottom end, upgraded ARP rod bolts, new Total seal blower file fit rings and a Precision oil pump (which is a BP/cleaned up 10355). WCCH 2.5 ported LSA head, Jokerz Chaos ported blower, E85, ID 1300 and 2.45/8.6 pulleys.. 102 TB, DDP intake, M6 car and I'm 818/775 to the tire. IMO I wouldn't go new bottom end until you have too, or you just want it.. 700 is easy to get to on these cars with good port work, cam and tune..
Good Luck,
Jeff
 

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damn seems like a lot of new owners now buying broken cars from shady sellers who are capitalizing on the crazy used car prices...
 

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So I did my first oil change on the V and bad news, shimmery oil. I’ve only owned the car for 4000 miles. I’m pretty sure it’s done for but until I get it out and tore down I won’t know for sure. I did however find a Ls3 416 stroker with forged eagle crank, eagle forged rods w/ arp 2000 bolts and choice of dishes or flat top pistons for $6200. If I go that route I have talked to my tuner he is suggesting 2.5 upper and 10 lower. At this time ported heads and blower are not in budget but I can do a cam. What would you all do? Rebuild if possible or stroker and what should I do now while the motor is out, also what compression ratio should I try and stick too?
What is your oil pressure at idle warm and when driving? If you hurt the bearings you may be able to have the crank polished and a new set in without dropping a ton of money...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pull the oil filter and cut it open.
Take a color picture and post it to this forum…

A 416 in.³ engine will need more air. So porting
and a different cam might be in your future… Lol
Boost is simply a restriction to flow.

Improve your cylinder head flow, and move to the appropriate
camshaft before you spend money on the blower.

---------------------------------------------------

You wrote:
"Power goals are 700-800hp"
. . .A Good Place To Begin..lol

An efficient IC Engine will produce about 1.0 fwHP per each 1.5 CFM inhaled by the engine.

So you can simply multiply your HP Goals by 1.5, and determine
how much air the induction system must provide.

The above value of 1.5 is simply the reciprocal of the %ASE value
whereby static compression is assigned an Air Standard Efficiency Percentage.

Here an efficient engine will provide for about an 67% efficiency.
So then. . .(1 / 0.67)= 1.493 which is rounded up to 1.5. . . .

Its a simply 'Engine Demand' versus 'Induction Supply' issue. . . .

---------------------------------------------------

Now the problem!
800 fwHp requires about 1200 CFM.

That means you would need to port your little 1.9 L
blower, and also spin it pretty hard. . .

One more thing; the more efficient is your mass flow recovery
system, the less you have to spin the blower.

Or conversely; the more you spin the blower,
the more cool air will be realized.

Cool air is more dense (heavier) as it contains more air molecules.

A blower also compacts (to some degree) that air even more.
A real Supercharger / Compressor compacts the air more again. . . .

This allows for more fuel to be added to the air, which increases
the 'Mass Charge' entering the cylinder, which means the engine
has a higher potential to make more HP. . . .

Good Luck!

Cheers
RD
yeah i figure if i can atleast get the heads and cam that will get me in right direction
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What is your oil pressure at idle warm and why driving? If you hurt the bearings you may be able to have the crank polished and a new set in without dropping a ton of money...
16psi and I'm not driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
damn seems like a lot of new owners now buying broken cars from shady sellers who are capitalizing on the crazy used car prices...
yeah called dealer and they were no help. Unfortunately since they changed the oil prior to me looking at it I was unable to see any signs of issues.
 

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I'll say that a well rebuilt Stock bottom end is able to make 700-800 and live, especially if you are not full out killing the car every time you drive it (meaning not just a track car). I have a rebuilt stock bottom end, upgraded ARP rod bolts, new Total seal blower file fit rings and a Precision oil pump (which is a BP/cleaned up 10355). WCCH 2.5 ported LSA head, Jokerz Chaos ported blower, E85, ID 1300 and 2.45/8.6 pulleys.. 102 TB, DDP intake, M6 car and I'm 818/775 to the tire. IMO I wouldn't go new bottom end until you have too, or you just want it.. 700 is easy to get to on these cars with good port work, cam and tune..
Good Luck,
Jeff
^^ yes, this. It’s also a good time to stop financially 😁
 

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Man, its so easy to get sucked into the rabbit hole. It happened to me and the car was down for longer than I care to admit. I don't think there was a part of the car that didn't get touched. From the engine to the rear end coming out the car. Be careful...;)
I am currently in that rabbit hole and wonderland is expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK so good news is I now have a new motor, stock cubes, k1 crank and rods, king bearing, arp hardware, wiseco pistons, trunion and spring upgrade, and currently has a stage 2 turbo cam which is coming out for a BTR stage 3 torque cam. My current injectors are getting sent out for cleaning and a new oil cooler is on its way. Old motor is almost out then i will stab this one in once the new cam and flexplate arrive. With any luck I will be on the streets by the 1st.
 
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