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Going to install my reinforced brick this coming weekend and I would like to replace the isolator as well. Can the snout be removed without pulling the SC?
I've watched a few YouTube videos and it appears it atleast has to be loosened up for the snout to clear the small steel tube that is located just below it.
What's the brain trust have to say?
 

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You must remove SC from engine to access all the snout bolts.

After you unbolt SC from engine, you can prop up the SC with a wood block to gain access to bottom snout bolt.

Just remember to disconnect the snout to valley flex hose or you will break it.


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You must remove SC from engine to access all the snout bolts.

After you unbolt SC from engine, you can prop up the SC with a wood block to gain access to bottom snout bolt.

Just remember to disconnect the snout to valley flex hose or you will break it.


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This is one way to do it, the other way is to loosen the supercharger bolts a good amount then there is enough space to access and remove all the snout bolts. Just did it this way, only have to be careful no blower bolts fall into the ports but it saves you the lift of the blower and you can still prop it with some wood.


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Fair enough

Just done it enough that it’s easier to just pull it out and put it on the bench.

I won’t get into making sure the solid isolators often require some tuning of the hole diameters to fit well so that you don’t side load the snout bearing.

I have maybe had one fit correctly out of many without taking a round file to it.


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I won’t get into making sure the solid isolators often require some tuning of the hole diameters to fit well so that you don’t side load the snout bearing.
Interesting my SC was making noise (seemed to be snout related) so when installing a cam I replaced the snout bearing. My tuner noticed the noise even with the new snout bearing. Pulled SC and all the bearings looked good. Turned out to be a loose fitting solid isolator.
 

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Fair enough

Just done it enough that it’s easier to just pull it out and put it on the bench.
I’m with you on this Larry Just pull the thing off and put on a bench. So much easier to see that you are doing and get it back together right.
 

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Just a heads up, buy a new set of suprecharger/lid bolts whenever you take it off. Old ones are usually stretched and will likely snap when you try to torque them down.
 

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I used this as a guide when I didn’t my solid isolator:


Just a heads up, buy a new set of suprecharger/lid bolts whenever you take it off. Old ones are usually stretched and will likely snap when you try to torque them down.
I reused all of mine and re-torqued to spec with zero issues. I can’t see the small bolts being TTY.

I’m with you on this Larry Just pull the thing off and put on a bench. So much easier to see that you are doing and get it back together right.
This is a challenge working solo. The slug-prop method worked fine for me.
 

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Just a heads up, buy a new set of suprecharger/lid bolts whenever you take it off. Old ones are usually stretched and will likely snap when you try to torque them down.
I've removed my lid numerous times and never had an issue with the lid bolts snapping. Are you torquing them down to tight?
 

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I snapped one....stupidly using the Milwaukee impact vs the mechanical socket driver. Oooops.
 
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I've torqued down the same set of bolts at least 7 times on the old lid before getting new ones with the Z lid.
 

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Nope, broke 1 on SC, 2 on lid, and one on brick.
Now whenever SC comes off, I just buy a new set of bolts.
 
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