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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I was cleaning with steam inside the coupe. Always pay particular attention not to get close to electronics with it, but somehow must have gotten some water near the parking brake button because now it will not work. I'm getting the "service electronic parking brake" DIC message. I checked the 30amp fuse up front and it looked alright (i know jcase fuses can look ok and be bad) I also tested it with an ohm meter. I also went thru and checked basically every fuse up front with the meter but not any of the trunk fuses. Tried disconnecting the battery for a period of time. Still nothing. Brakes will still engage and disengage by themselves (when turning off the car, and when leaving from a stop). Im hoping the water is just temporarily interfering with the system and it will work again. Im wondering if anyone knows how I could test the button itself with an ohm meter if I pry up the trim paneling right there to get to it. Or any other suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 

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You could pull up that trim panel where your shifter is and disconnect the harness to the button and see if there’s condensation in that connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
You could pull up that trim panel where your shifter is and disconnect the harness to the button and see if there’s condensation in that connection.
No condensation and still doesn't work. Swapped the 30amp fuse with the identical mag ride control fuse and still telling me to service brake. Electronic brake does still engage and disengage when turning car on/off. Any other fuses associated with this? Any ideas where to go from here? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So e brake still functions properly just gives you a message?
Is functioning properly but cannot use the button on the center console to control it. Brake light will blink and "service electronic brake" appears
 

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Is functioning properly but cannot use the button on the center console to control it. Brake light will blink and "service electronic brake" appears
Perhaps just the switch crapped out on you? If it’s functioning then the module on the rear should be ok
 

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Perhaps just the switch crapped out on you? If it’s functioning then the module on the rear should be ok
I had the exact same symptoms in my 2012 coupe and it turned out to be a rodent ate through a wire in the harness going to the EBM. The EBM is in the right rear all the way above the axels and suspension and was a real bitch to access. Splicing and taping the wire fixed the issue.

Steve D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had the exact same symptoms in my 2012 coupe and it turned out to be a rodent ate through a wire in the harness going to the EBM. The EBM is in the right rear all the way above the axels and suspension and was a real bitch to access. Splicing and taping the wire fixed the issue.

Steve D
Hey Steve, I did read your forum about that happening to you. Unfortunately there isnt much else out there on this issue that I have found. In your case at least you could see something happened to your wires. In my case, steam somehow caused a malfunction somewhere. I am hoping it is just the switch, I guess ill buy a new one and see if that is the remedy. Because they are still engaging/disengaging I am hoping ctarb1 is correct in that the module in the back is still o.k.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had the exact same symptoms in my 2012 coupe and it turned out to be a rodent ate through a wire in the harness going to the EBM. The EBM is in the right rear all the way above the axels and suspension and was a real bitch to access. Splicing and taping the wire fixed the issue.

Steve D
How did you ohm out the switch so I could rule that out?
 

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I took the switch out of the console and unplugged the harness connector. The switch has connections for the LED illumination bulb and two SPDT switches which operate when the switch is either pushed down or pulled up. I don't remember the exact connections to the terminals but each switch section should show continuity as the switch is toggled. If you could get a copy of the EPB circuit it will show the switch terminal connections. From what I remember I just checked that continuity changed as I toggled the switch. Find two contacts that show continuity then toggle the switch and it should open and one of the other terminals should go from open to short at the same time. Repeat for the second set of switch contacts. It's a bit of trial and error but you just want to make sure the switch contacts are making connections when the switch is toggled in both directions.

Steve D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took the switch out of the console and unplugged the harness connector. The switch has connections for the LED illumination bulb and two SPDT switches which operate when the switch is either pushed down or pulled up. I don't remember the exact connections to the terminals but each switch section should show continuity as the switch is toggled. If you could get a copy of the EPB circuit it will show the switch terminal connections. From what I remember I just checked that continuity changed as I toggled the switch. Find two contacts that show continuity then toggle the switch and it should open and one of the other terminals should go from open to short at the same time. Repeat for the second set of switch contacts. It's a bit of trial and error but you just want to make sure the switch contacts are making connections when the switch is toggled in both directions.

Steve D
Thanks for taking the time out to explain that I will give it a shot.
 
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