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Scored cylinder, need to replace short block on 2012 CTS-V

2502 Views 26 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Rubber Duck
I have a scored cylinder and need to replace the block on my 2012 CTS-V with 93k miles on it.

Do y'all think I should go with a factory refurbished OEM block from Cadillac (12k cost, ~6k for labor)? So as to have a two year warranty? Not sure if this option would be best for retail value, or if I should have a machine shop in the Bay Area drop a block with forged internals in it?

Does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Bay that could reliably do the work? My leads as of now would be Rob's Engine Repair in Hayward, or Matt at GPTuning.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a scored cylinder and need to replace the block on my 2012 CTS-V with 93k miles on it.

Do y'all think I should go with a factory refurbished OEM block from Cadillac (12k cost, ~6k for labor)? So as to have a two year warranty? Not sure if this option would be best for retail value, or if I should have a machine shop in the Bay Area drop a block with forged internals in it?

Does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Bay that could reliably do the work? My leads as of now would be Rob's Engine Repair in Hayward, or Matt at GPTuning.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Look into the Hi-Perf option from GM.

The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
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From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
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From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
Wrong..;);)

The engine should be disassembled.

When cylinder walls are scuffed like this,
we don't worry about a compression test
as the engine has been damaged.

The scoring is most likely a damaged ring
and / or piston injured from self detonation.

This is particularly so, if it is one of the two rear cylinders,
as they run significantly hotter than do the rest.

It's not going to get better and most likely will get worse.

Now, as an owner of an lsX B-15 tell him everything he needs to know..lol

Take care Mr. Kitty..:)
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Look into the Hi-Perf option from GM.

The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
Ooh thank you. I can't believe of all the shops I've talked to nobody ever brought this up smdh. Would that be the LSX376-15? So this one? LSX376-B15 Crate Engines | Chevy Performance Parts

I will definitely go this route, if it will pass smog. The site says intended for competition use only, and this is my only car.
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
The dealership, when replacing the supercharger, noticed a cylinder misfiring, pulled the engine out and scoped it. Said it's a wrap for it, matter of time. Also it can't pass SMOG
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
A good engine shop should check (measure & quantify) the damage after disassembly. It may be that it would be a case of putting a sleeve in that cylinder and honing the rest. It might not be necessary to toss your block… but it MIGHT BE. It really needs a direct assessment by a good shop.
The California SMOG issue is a whole ‘nother issue.
It sounds to me like you are likely to be stuck with going back 100% stock just to avoid compliance hassles.
I don’t live there (would’nt) so I’m not sure about the compliance topic but shops and guys such as @Lt1z deal with it real time. They might be the best bet for specific direction in that environment.
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I had to replace a motor last year. I went with the GM LSA long block with full factory warranty. It cost $11,600. Peace of mind is included with that price.
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have you talked to a shop as surly suggests about boring/honing/sleeving the block?
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Let's put a little more perspective on this. . .

The OP lost this engine to what appears to be Self-Detonation.
Just an educated guess. . .

;)
The OP has just 5-Posts and does not have any mods in a signature.
He has asked for info regarding a new engine and desires a warranty.

He can get into the lsX B-15 for about the same amount
of money, as he would spend on the LSA.

The LSA comes with an aluminum block with thin 'crap' cast iron cylinder liners. These liners do not expand at the same rate as does the aluminum block. The aluminum block expands faster as heat is driven into the block. This then causes the liners to not be supported. They then crack!

The B-15 also carries a warranty. It is warranted for 900 fwHP.
And the B-15 comes with an Iron Block made with high quality and durable iron.

This block was engineered by the legendary NHRA Pro Stock
Engine builder, Warren Johnson. It was made for racing. . . .

This engine will smog!
The major differences regarding its ability to smog are; a bit more compression. Heads are similar to LS-3 Cylinder Heads, but come with 6-Bolts to clamp to block. A camshaft that is a bit longer in duration. This engine with minimal mods will make between ~635 to ~665 rwHP. . . . Assuming the correct fuel is used!

Considering the above, if it is within the OP's budget moving
to this engine, in itself, is a warranty against future failure.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

OP, it would help if you would put any mods in your signature line.;);)

Cheers
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Kidding aside have you talked to a shop as surly suggests about boring/honing/sleeving the block?

but if you don’t take that option I seriously would be interested in buying your block
Disassemble, clean, sleeve, deck, bore & hone, parts, new valve guides, deck heads, valve job, etc. plus assemble long block. Now, what would the warranty be. . . . .

To have a machine shop go through this engine completely,
will not cost a lot less than will a B-15 short block. . .

Best bet though would be to go to the B-15 Long Block, as it also comes with 6-Bolt heads. These heads do not have the 'Wing' in them and are more like the LS-3 heads, which flow a bit more than do the LSA Heads.
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I don’t disagree with you duck. I was more just shining light on all options possibilities
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I don’t disagree with you duck. I was more just shining light on all options possible…..and offering to buy his block at the same time lol
Nothing to worry about..;)
As Einstein once stated; everything is relativistic. . .

In the 'Surly Ones' world, he would only have to have the machine work done outside, as he is highly capable of disassembling the engine, and putting it back together. Possibly you are also..:)

Cheers
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Yes, RD is correct, the b15 LSX IS a better, stronger engine with loads of potential and greater durability than the stock LSA.
NOBODY would argue that point….
However, based on assumptions that we are making about the OP: Has owned the car for many years; joined here ages ago, doesn’t post, ever. OP doesn’t mention mods but DOES mention concern about warranty and smog. I have the impression that the OP has zero desire to have mods OR a more-mod-ready engine than the car came with and would prefer zero issues with compliance. Perfectly fine way to be, likely MOST V2 owners stay stock. Try as we might, we on this forum are not representative of “most” V owners.

The biggest question regarding the B15 is, given the differences. (cam, heads) IS IT POSSIBLE to install the B15 and run it on the 100% stock tune?
There is that checksum issue to deal with, otherwise.
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Look into the Hi-Perf option from GM.

The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
Ooh thank you. I can't believe of all the shops I've talked to nobody ever brought this up smdh. Would that be the LSX376-15? So this one? LSX376-B15 Crate Engines | Chevy Performance Parts

I will definitely go this route, if it will pass smog. The site says intended for competition use only, and this is my only car.
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
The dealership, when replacing the supercharger, noticed a cylinder misfiring, pulled the engine out and scoped it. Said it's a wrap for it, matter of time. Also it can't pass SMOG
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
Wrong..;);)

The engine should be disassembled.

When cylinder walls are scuffed like this,
we don't worry about a compression test
as the engine has been damaged.

The scoring is most likely a damaged ring
and / or piston injured from self detonation.

This is particularly so, if it is one of the two rear cylinders,
as they run significantly hotter than do the rest.

It's not going to get better and most likely will get worse.

Now, as an owner of an lsX B-15 tell him everything he needs to know..lol

Take care Mr. Kitty..:)
Thanks for the feedback y'all. The scored cylinder is cylinder 1, and the dealership did run a compression check. It had 30 lbs of compression.

I looked into resleeving but everyone seems to suggest against it, as Duck says. I'm at peace with replacing the block, and pretty juiced about the LSX B-15 option
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The biggest question regarding the B15 is, given the differences. (cam, heads) IS IT POSSIBLE to install the B15 and run it on the 100% stock tune?
There that checksum issue to deal with, otherwise.
I can assure you this has been done, right here in California.
In one case, the camshaft was even changed, albeit nothing big. . .

All of the parts in this engine are used in other GM Engines that must pass smog.

But then again, maybe someone on this forum will tell a different story. . .

Cheers
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Yes, RD is correct, the b15 LSX IS a better, stronger engine with loads of potential and greater durability than the stock LSA.
NOBODY would argue that point….
However, based on assumptions that we are making about the OP: Has owned the car for many years; joined here ages ago, doesn’t post, ever. OP doesn’t mention mods but DOES mention concern about warranty and smog. I have the impression that the OP has zero desire to have mods OR a more-mod-ready engine than the car came with and would prefer zero issues with compliance. Perfectly fine way to be, likely MOST V2 owners stay stock. Try as we might, we on this forum are not representative of “most” V owners.

The biggest question regarding the B15 is, given the differences. (cam, heads) IS IT POSSIBLE to install the B15 and run it on the 100% stock tune?
There is that checksum issue to deal with, otherwise.
Good read Surly. Yeah the V is my favorite car ever but I'm far from a gearhead, as you guessed. I use it as my daily driver, which is admittedly dumb, but yeah I mostly plan to keep it mostly stock. I would mod it but I'm unsure if that would hurt or help the resale value. I also don't know what shop does reputable work in the Bay Area, so I go with the dealership, again, for potential resale value.
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I can assure you this has been done, right here in California.
In one case, the camshaft was even changed, albeit nothing big. . .

All of the parts in this engine are used in other GM Engines that must pass smog.

But then again, maybe someone on this forum will tell a different story. . .

Cheers
All valid points and I simply don’t know the situation there so that’s why I ask and why I wonder.
My sketchy understanding of the newer edict regarding checksum numbers seems to imply that even though the LS9 cam is oem in another car, the checksum mandate would still not allow switching the tune at all….even to install an oem tune for a Corvette or whatever.
Good read Surly. Yeah the V is my favorite car ever but I'm far from a gearhead, as you guessed. I use it as my daily driver, which is admittedly dumb, but yeah I mostly plan to keep it mostly stock. I would mod it but I'm unsure if that would hurt or help the resale value. I also don't know what shop does reputable work in the Bay Area, so I go with the dealership, again, for potential resale value.
You should do whatever you feel comfortable with.

On one hand I wonder why a stock engine would loose
a piston like that, particularly in #1 cylinder?

On the other hand, if your not into doing engine mods,
then replacing your broken LSA, with a new LSA Engine
certainly makes sense.
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Already thought of you surly
And I have some pistons for you.. :LOL:


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Wrong..;);)

The engine should be disassembled.

When cylinder walls are scuffed like this,
we don't worry about a compression test
as the engine has been damaged.

The scoring is most likely a damaged ring
and / or piston injured from self detonation.

This is particularly so, if it is one of the two rear cylinders,
as they run significantly hotter than do the rest.

It's not going to get better and most likely will get worse.

Now, as an owner of an lsX B-15 tell him everything he needs to know..lol

Take care Mr. Kitty..:)
I don't believe rebuilding an engine due to cylinder scuffing is always necessary. Based on the images posted with limited information I was only suggesting to further evaluate. Even though I do have a B15 engine, I realize there are others that have good experience and recommendations to share.
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