Look into the Hi-Perf option from GM.
The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
Look into the Hi-Perf option from GM.I have a scored cylinder and need to replace the block on my 2012 CTS-V with 93k miles on it.
Do y'all think I should go with a factory refurbished OEM block from Cadillac (12k cost, ~6k for labor)? So as to have a two year warranty? Not sure if this option would be best for retail value, or if I should have a machine shop in the Bay Area drop a block with forged internals in it?
Does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Bay that could reliably do the work? My leads as of now would be Rob's Engine Repair in Hayward, or Matt at GPTuning.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Wrong..From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
Ooh thank you. I can't believe of all the shops I've talked to nobody ever brought this up smdh. Would that be the LSX376-15? So this one? LSX376-B15 Crate Engines | Chevy Performance PartsLook into the Hi-Perf option from GM.
The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
The dealership, when replacing the supercharger, noticed a cylinder misfiring, pulled the engine out and scoped it. Said it's a wrap for it, matter of time. Also it can't pass SMOGFrom the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
Disassemble, clean, sleeve, deck, bore & hone, parts, new valve guides, deck heads, valve job, etc. plus assemble long block. Now, what would the warranty be. . . . .Kidding aside have you talked to a shop as surly suggests about boring/honing/sleeving the block?
but if you don’t take that option I seriously would be interested in buying your block
Nothing to worry about..I don’t disagree with you duck. I was more just shining light on all options possible…..and offering to buy his block at the same time lol
Ooh thank you. I can't believe of all the shops I've talked to nobody ever brought this up smdh. Would that be the LSX376-15? So this one? LSX376-B15 Crate Engines | Chevy Performance PartsLook into the Hi-Perf option from GM.
The GM Iron Block lsX B-15, which is warranted to 900 fwHP.
The dealership, when replacing the supercharger, noticed a cylinder misfiring, pulled the engine out and scoped it. Said it's a wrap for it, matter of time. Also it can't pass SMOGFrom the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
From the image, that scoring does not appear too bad. Have you performed a compression test? What is causing you to change out the engine at this time, any particular behaviors?
Thanks for the feedback y'all. The scored cylinder is cylinder 1, and the dealership did run a compression check. It had 30 lbs of compression.Wrong..
The engine should be disassembled.
When cylinder walls are scuffed like this,
we don't worry about a compression test
as the engine has been damaged.
The scoring is most likely a damaged ring
and / or piston injured from self detonation.
This is particularly so, if it is one of the two rear cylinders,
as they run significantly hotter than do the rest.
It's not going to get better and most likely will get worse.
Now, as an owner of an lsX B-15 tell him everything he needs to know..lol
Take care Mr. Kitty..![]()
I can assure you this has been done, right here in California.The biggest question regarding the B15 is, given the differences. (cam, heads) IS IT POSSIBLE to install the B15 and run it on the 100% stock tune?
There that checksum issue to deal with, otherwise.
Good read Surly. Yeah the V is my favorite car ever but I'm far from a gearhead, as you guessed. I use it as my daily driver, which is admittedly dumb, but yeah I mostly plan to keep it mostly stock. I would mod it but I'm unsure if that would hurt or help the resale value. I also don't know what shop does reputable work in the Bay Area, so I go with the dealership, again, for potential resale value.Yes, RD is correct, the b15 LSX IS a better, stronger engine with loads of potential and greater durability than the stock LSA.
NOBODY would argue that point….
However, based on assumptions that we are making about the OP: Has owned the car for many years; joined here ages ago, doesn’t post, ever. OP doesn’t mention mods but DOES mention concern about warranty and smog. I have the impression that the OP has zero desire to have mods OR a more-mod-ready engine than the car came with and would prefer zero issues with compliance. Perfectly fine way to be, likely MOST V2 owners stay stock. Try as we might, we on this forum are not representative of “most” V owners.
The biggest question regarding the B15 is, given the differences. (cam, heads) IS IT POSSIBLE to install the B15 and run it on the 100% stock tune?
There is that checksum issue to deal with, otherwise.
All valid points and I simply don’t know the situation there so that’s why I ask and why I wonder.I can assure you this has been done, right here in California.
In one case, the camshaft was even changed, albeit nothing big. . .
All of the parts in this engine are used in other GM Engines that must pass smog.
But then again, maybe someone on this forum will tell a different story. . .
Cheers
You should do whatever you feel comfortable with.Good read Surly. Yeah the V is my favorite car ever but I'm far from a gearhead, as you guessed. I use it as my daily driver, which is admittedly dumb, but yeah I mostly plan to keep it mostly stock. I would mod it but I'm unsure if that would hurt or help the resale value. I also don't know what shop does reputable work in the Bay Area, so I go with the dealership, again, for potential resale value.
I don't believe rebuilding an engine due to cylinder scuffing is always necessary. Based on the images posted with limited information I was only suggesting to further evaluate. Even though I do have a B15 engine, I realize there are others that have good experience and recommendations to share.Wrong..
The engine should be disassembled.
When cylinder walls are scuffed like this,
we don't worry about a compression test
as the engine has been damaged.
The scoring is most likely a damaged ring
and / or piston injured from self detonation.
This is particularly so, if it is one of the two rear cylinders,
as they run significantly hotter than do the rest.
It's not going to get better and most likely will get worse.
Now, as an owner of an lsX B-15 tell him everything he needs to know..lol
Take care Mr. Kitty..![]()