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Discussion Starter #1
2 years ago I went to the R1 rotors and stock pads. They are slotted, not drilled. Initially they worked well but I think I baked them at the half mile because now when I try to stop at any track event (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, even roll racing) the steering wheel shakes really badly. Enough I have to get off the brakes and reapply.

The other odd symptom and might not be rotor related is after a burn out to warm the tires (and this isnt a crazy john force burn out, I like to keep my drag radials for a couple years) when I go to stop the car the brakes feel like piss. mushy, peddle sinks, just bleh. the initial brake job last year I didnt do the brake fluid, but after I started getting these symptoms I bled them all twice with high temp stuff and it really didn't change anything. no air in the lines, they just dont feel well.

R1 is willing to work with me, they offered me great service even though they were on the car for a while they offered to help me out on a new set but im sort of confused as to why im getting the low speed mushy feeling when I do a burn out. and if I should just go to a blank, even back to oem for a more consistent peddle when stopping. This is the first time ive had slotted rotors and they felt different the day I put them on. I dont know if its in my head, or I should have expected it?

Does anyone have any input on brakes with a 4600lb vehicle that is hitting 137mph in the quarter and ive been 160mph in the half, I know they dont have an easy job/life, maybe I should be looking at braided ss lines?
 

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I can't speak to the squishy pedal.

I had bad vibrations on mine, from an outside glance they didn't look bad, but the inside of the rotor was glazed to all hell.
Replaced with slotted/cross drilled StopTech and new OEM pads. Car stops great, and recently did some spirited mountain driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Never even thought to look at the inside because the outsides look good, but that could be my issue as well! ill have to check them this week
 
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