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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get rid of the hard lines in my car.
I have an underhood tank, weapon x HX, and lid with 12an fittings.
Can 3/4" silicone hose clamp over the AN fittings?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I dont like the other hose or fittings on my car anyhow, think ill order the same fittings and hose I had on my 11 V
I just thought maybe the silicone hose would take bends real easy





 

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I dont like the other hose or fittings on my car anyhow, think ill order the same fittings and hose I had on my 11 V
I just thought maybe the silicone hose would take bends real easy

Where did you get those lines and fittings?
 

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I have top of lid->tank->hx>pump>bottom of lid.
Isn't this the more typical(stock) routing?
 

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They make specific pushlock AN fittings meant for rubber/silicone hose, and clamps are not needed (or recommended), if that's what you're asking. That's what I run.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They make specific pushlock AN fittings meant for rubber/silicone hose, and clamps are not needed (or recommended), if that's what you're asking. That's what I run.
Lid isn’t the issue it’s the pump and HX, need to make sure whatever hose can clamp over a barb fitting
 

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Can 3/4" silicone hose clamp over the AN fittings?
Lid isn’t the issue it’s the pump and HX, need to make sure whatever hose can clamp over a barb fitting
Ok, just that you said AN fittings in the original post, hence my confusion. I ran 3/4" silicone hose to my Varimax pump and C&R HX no issue, but I did have to fashion up my own 90* AN fitting because it was too sharp of a turn for just one of the HX connections.

I bought a 90* 3/4 barb-to -12 AN male fitting + a -12 AN female to 3/4" barb straight fitting. I didn't want to use a harsh, right angled brass fitting because that hurts flow. Then I just put a 3" piece of hose on the HX fitting, then the AN combo fitting on the other end.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
like everyone else its a mixture of fittings, an and barb.
im wondering if a 90 degree heater hose with some length to it will make it from the bottom of the HX to the pump, i dont remember how far away it is.
rest is gravy
 

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The most important part of designing a pumping system is the suction side of the pump. So In my opinion Tank > Pump is the only way to do it.

Pumps are very good at creating pressure and pushing liquid, they are not good at sucking liquid. Bad suction design can cause cavitation and introduce air into the system.


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Discussion Starter #11
The most important part of designing a pumping system is the suction side of the pump. So In my opinion Tank > Pump is the only way to do it.

Pumps are very good at creating pressure and pushing liquid, they are not good at sucking liquid. Bad suction design can cause cavitation and introduce air into the system.


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im doing it this way, but I seem to remember someone claiming some ridiculous IAT2's (like 3 over ambient during normal driving ) and saying it was from how they routed the lines.
It was 20 something degrees this morning when I left my house and my IAT2s were still almost 40 and thats me driving really easy due to drag radials on the back. Need to change over to my all seasons.
 

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It was 20 something degrees this morning when I left my house and my IAT2s were still almost 40 and thats me driving really easy due to drag radials on the back. Need to change over to my all seasons.
Were the IAT2's 40* or 40 over ambient?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One of the reasons I am doing this is because I get an air bubble in the system from time to time, been happening ever since I changed the pump. I’m hoping this does the trick otherwise I am out of ideas. Also seems the best IAT2’s I have ever seen at cruising speeds is 10-15 over ambient. Anyone else have similar results ?
Hoping to get this done sometime this week or so, want to flush the HX out just Incase too. going to hook a garden hose to a piece of 3/4 on the inlet and run another hose on the outlet and let it run a little while
 

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What is the orientation of the pump? The best orientation is the outlet on the top.

What pump are you using? I am ready to upgrade but haven’t figured out what works best.



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I just replaced my hard lines, (small tip, disconnect the battery and remove the starter cable from the fuse box, the cable seems to be in the way of getting the hard lines out)

This isn’t scientific and maybe just wishful thinking but after removing the hard lines looking in the tank it did seem to be flowing better.

I also changed the routing, tank > Pump > HX > bottom brick > tank.


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Discussion Starter #17
I ended up being to busy at the shop to do anything for myself. Lines are still sitting in the box. Also realized I already have a 3/4 to and from the HX so it’s just a matter of getting rid of the hard lines.
53 degrees out last night and best I could muster at cruise was 14 over
 

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im wondering if a 90 degree heater hose with some length to it will make it from the bottom of the HX to the pump, i d
do some searching on here. There is a part # for a question mark kinda shaped hose that I think I recall works perfect for this. Also part numbers for 90 degree premolded 3/4” heater hose posted previously.
 
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