[kittyboy]

---Remote oil cooler test drive results---
(see attached images)

Seattle is not a warm weather paradise most of the year. The last two days we experienced rare 90*F+ sunshine, close-as-it-gets for a remote engine oil cooler test drive. I first prepared by drinking plenty of water, applying sunblock, floppy hat, eye drops, sunglasses, and long sleeves. It's amazing how the body adapts to living without sunshine nine months per year.

Summary Cooling Mods:
B15 iron block M6 fitted with a remote oil cooler adaptor block, 25 pass 1qt cooler w/ 6" fan, 170*F thermostat, AN10 lines and fittings. Engine cooling consists of a double capacity triple pass after market radiator, dual 1300cfm SPAL fans running 100% constant.

Last two days test driving:
Normal town and highway driving conditions 90*F+ sea level, AC 100% set to 60*F

Test Results:
engine coolant 208*F (OEM sender)
engine coolant 215*F (Autometer sender)
engine oil 210*F (OEM sender)
engine oil 235*F (Autometer sender)

The sizable difference in oil temperatures readings between the OEM and Autometer senders is location. The Autometer sender is threaded into the remote cooler adaptor block measuring oil temp prior to cooling.

Some questions and concerns I have:

1) Should I consider a liquid to liquid oil cooler, any brand suggestions/kits?

2) What max oil temperature would be concerning when running a quality synthetic?

3) Why does the OEM sender measure oil temps AFTER cooling and not before?

My ultimate goal is performance/endurance driving without engine/oil overheat in high temp (100*F+) weather. How well do you believe my set-up will withstand more extreme driving conditions based on the attached info? Any and all info is appreciated! ty

 

[Rubber Duck]

---Remote oil cooler test drive results---
(see attached images)

Seattle is not a warm weather paradise most of the year. The last two days we experienced rare 90*F+ sunshine, close-as-it-gets for a remote engine oil cooler test drive. I first prepared by drinking plenty of water, applying sunblock, floppy hat, eye drops, sunglasses, and long sleeves. It's amazing how the body adapts to living without sunshine nine months per year.

Summary Cooling Mods:
B15 iron block M6 fitted with a remote oil cooler adaptor block, 25 pass 1qt cooler w/ 6" fan, 170*F thermostat, AN10 lines and fittings. Engine cooling consists of a double capacity triple pass after market radiator, dual 1300cfm SPAL fans running 100% constant.

Last two days test driving:
Normal town and highway driving conditions 90*F+ sea level, AC 100% set to 60*F

Test Results:
engine coolant 208*F (OEM sender)
engine coolant 215*F (Autometer sender)
engine oil 210*F (OEM sender)
engine oil 235*F (Autometer sender)

The sizable difference in oil temperatures readings between the OEM and Autometer senders is location. The Autometer sender is threaded into the remote cooler adaptor block measuring oil temp prior to cooling.

Some questions and concerns I have:

1) Should I consider a liquid to liquid oil cooler, any brand suggestions/kits?

2) What max oil temperature would be concerning when running a quality synthetic?

3) Why does the OEM sender measure oil temps AFTER cooling and not before?


My ultimate goal is performance/endurance driving without engine/oil overheat in high temp (100*F+) weather. How well do you believe my set-up will withstand more extreme driving conditions based on the attached info? Any and all info is appreciated! ty

View attachment 159855

View attachment 159856

But weren't you the guy that said he did not want to be distracted when he drives..

 

[kittyboy]

But weren't you the guy that said he did not want to be distracted when he drives..

Yes, but it does help with my PTSD after cooking the main bearings on my last engine!

 

[Blades1_99]

I don't have any feedback about temperature differences but I have to think that any temp drop from stock would have to be a good thing.

And pardon my ignorance but where did you locate the cooler?

 

[kittyboy]

I don't have any feedback about temperature differences but I have to think that any temp drop from stock would have to be a good thing.

And pardon my ignorance but where did you locate the cooler?

 

[Rubber Duck]

Yes, but it does help with my PTSD after cooking the main bearings on my last engine!

Now That's Funny..

 

[Rubber Duck]

I don't have any feedback about temperature differences but I have to think that any temp drop from stock would have to be a good thing.

And pardon my ignorance but where did you locate the cooler?

In the 'Locker' beginning with the letter 'C'..

Failure is obviously part of your everyday life. . .

 

[random84]

Quality synthetics are good to 300+ F. Many sources suggest a quality oil can withstand 500*F for short intervals on a track.

If they can survive hours of track racing at full beans when the track surface is 130+, theb cruising along in the summer is nothing. Obviously having the correct viscosity is important (most engine wear is during the first few moments of cold starting when oil is thick and not moving well).

The real question is "how long can the oil maintain proper shearing strength, relative to the peak operating temperatures of my environment?"

For a non-race vehicle that is driven several times a week, that time would be measured in months.

TL;DR: just change the oil twice a year. Pick the lowest viscosity oil you can that still provides adequate pressure at peak operating temperatures.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

 

[kittyboy]

Quality synthetics are good to 300+ F. Many sources suggest a quality oil can withstand 500*F for short intervals on a track.

If they can survive hours of track racing at full beans when the track surface is 130+, theb cruising along in the summer is nothing. Obviously having the correct viscosity is important (most engine wear is during the first few moments of cold starting when oil is thick and not moving well).

The real question is "how long can the oil maintain proper shearing strength, relative to the peak operating temperatures of my environment?"

For a non-race vehicle that is driven several times a week, that time would be measured in months.

TL;DR: just change the oil twice a year. Pick the lowest viscosity oil you can that still provides adequate pressure at peak operating temperatures.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks. So in your opinion based on the pre-cooled oil temp, and after cooled temp I've posted, what could I expect when aggressively driving in 100*F+ weather, what higher temp range could I reasonably expect to see?

 

[MrSurly]

that grille in the fog lamp bucket… man i’m liking that.
I need a pic of the whole front end.

 

[kittyboy]

that grille in the fog lamp bucket… man i’m liking that.
I need a pic of the whole front end.

 

[MrSurly]

Shaker hood!

 

[07GTS]

did your hood affect the cooling at all ? we have noticed on some of out cars that even taking the seal off the back between windscreen and bonnet that it draws air out at low speeds but anything like 40kph+ (25mph) it actually sucks air back into the engine bay which then affects coolant temps as there is then too much pressure in there for proper flow thru the radiator

 

[Blades1_99]

View attachment 159857 View attachment 159858 View attachment 159859

Thanks for posting the pics.

@Rubber Duck the location wasn't in the OP so what did I miss?

 

[random84]

Thanks. So in your opinion based on the pre-cooled oil temp, and after cooled temp I've posted, what could I expect when aggressively driving in 100*F+ weather, what higher temp range could I reasonably expect to see?

Well, get out there, drive it hard and see! I'd say worse case scenario you might see 275* F at the sensor if you really get into it - but remember that the oil gets squished and heated as it makes it's way through the bearings and cylinder walls (which explains the variance between OEM and your oil filter location delta). It's probably even hotter in the bearings, but that's what it's made for.

IMHO, you're over-thinking it. I've run Redline 5w30 and 10w40 in two motors with 6+ month oil change intervals and never had a bad oil analysis (they test for shear and other longevity factors). I did this for years; I have 97k on the car now. And it gets hot here in Ohio too, but since I drive my car year round the oil would see 20* F starts and 110* F starts, sometimes on the same oil, and although I don't track the car I do enjoy mashing the pedal and taking twisties in a higher gear just for fun. I'm still using the OEM oil cooler.

Now the rear diff.... that's a different story. lol


ETA: I'd spend my money on quality oil (Redline, Amsoil) over a stand alone oil cooler on this platform for everything other than a dedicated track car.

 

[kittyboy]

did your hood affect the cooling at all ? we have noticed on some of out cars that even taking the seal off the back between windscreen and bonnet that it draws air out at low speeds but anything like 40kph+ (25mph) it actually sucks air back into the engine bay which then affects coolant temps as there is then too much pressure in there for proper flow thru the radiator

I have not conducted any high speed tests, it is a subject area I plan to experiment. Just from basic observation, I concur that at lower speeds it is cooler. The primary intent for the cutout is for engine clearance after mods. I will keep you posted on high speed test results when they are available. Thanks...