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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I upgraded to a newer touchscreen in my 05 ctsv. Now the car won’t start. Battery isn’t dead from sitting in the car with the doors open. Does it have to have VIN reprogramming or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
#1807 is the OBD (Class II serial data), also goes to the amplifier.
How do I find that wire in a see if wires behind the radio?

How do I find that wire in a see if wires behind the radio?
I also plugged everything factory back in and it still won’t start.

Ok, I need details.
What did you do to the stock wiring?
What radio did you replace the OEM with?

Does the stock radio now work? I mean sound wise/volume as that is controlled by OBD.
Do you get dash info? (oil temp, RPM)

The diagram/schematic indicates connector #, pin # and color (pink).
All I did to the stock wiring was unplug it and plug it into the harness crutchfield Provided then plugged in the new Boss Elite touchscreen. Let me check check volume and controls on the reinstalled stock radio. Everything on the dash comes on as normal.

Ok, I need details.
What did you do to the stock wiring?
What radio did you replace the OEM with?

Does the stock radio now work? I mean sound wise/volume as that is controlled by OBD.
Do you get dash info? (oil temp, RPM)

The diagram/schematic indicates connector #, pin # and color (pink).
Also wouldn’t the volume not work on the new radio if the OBD com wasn’t working?
 

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Ok, I need details.
What did you do to the stock wiring?
What radio did you replace the OEM with?

Does the stock radio now work? I mean sound wise/volume as that is controlled by OBD.
Do you get dash info? (oil temp, RPM)

The diagram/schematic indicates connector #, pin # and color (pink).
 

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The CTS-V radio is different from the CTS as driving modes (traction control) are controlled by radio buttons (thanks a fucking lot GM!).
If the Crutchfield adapter is not specially for the V, you may have killed the Class II.
Been there, done that, but in my case it recovered after a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The CTS-V radio is different from the CTS as driving modes (traction control) are controlled by radio buttons (thanks a fucking lot GM!).
If the Crutchfield adapter is not specially for the V, you may have killed the Class II.
Been there, done that, but in my case it recovered after a few minutes.
So should I just put the after market radio back in and leave the car on?
 

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Also wouldn’t the volume not work on the new radio if the OBD com wasn’t working?
I have no idea how you have it hooked up or what you are running.
In the OEM unit, volume is controlled by ClassII to the amplifier from the radio.
If the OEM unit works as it is supposed to, then the Class II is working.
What are the symptoms of the car "not starting"?
Do you hear the fuel pump come on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have no idea how you have it hooked up or what you are running.
In the OEM unit, volume is controlled by ClassII to the amplifier from the radio.
If the OEM unit works as it is supposed to, then the Class II is working.
What are the symptoms of the car "not starting"?
Do you hear the fuel pump come on?
Yep fuel pump comes on all the lights on the dash come on as they normally do. Only thing out of the ordinary is when I turn the key the dash goes black and car doesn’t start. When I let the key go back to accessory everything is on as it should be.
 

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Voltmeter reading doesn't mean squat if not under load.
Jump the battery or charge it.
I think the battery doesn't have enough reserve.
To have everything go dim when you turn the key tells me the starter circuit is working, just not enough reserve to turn the starter over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Voltmeter reading doesn't mean squat if not under load.
Jump the battery or charge it.
I think the battery doesn't have enough reserve.
To have everything go dim when you turn the key tells me the starter circuit is working, just not enough reserve to turn the starter over.
I’ll load test it and put it on the charger.

Voltmeter reading doesn't mean squat if not under load.
Jump the battery or charge it.
I think the battery doesn't have enough reserve.
To have everything go dim when you turn the key tells me the starter circuit is working, just not enough reserve to turn the starter over.
You sir are a genius. Put the load tester on and sure enough it’s bad.
 

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FYI in the future, if you are working on any car with the doors open and you didn't disconnect the battery, leave a trickle charger hooked up.
If you have the OEM battery, it is a POS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
FYI in the future, if you are working on any car with the doors open and you didn't disconnect the battery, leave a trickle charger hooked up.
If you have the OEM battery, it is a POS.
Welp had the battery and starter tested both good. So now I am back to checking connections and testing connections.
 
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